Three way ball valve with off position, one inch bronze, full port

[lifespeed]

I would guess this is a common valve for water softener installations. I am thinking of two of these units installed with a bypass pipe connecting the inline ports of the valve. Rotating both valves to the 0 degree position bypasses the softener through the pipe connecting the valves. Rotating both valves to the 90 position routes water through the softener. Rotating to the 180 position closes both valves, allowing for servicing of the softener.

I saw one Nibco valve that looked like a possibility, but it state "pressure on the closed port must be greater than the open port or the seal will can blow out", so not a likely candidate.

Any manufacturers or part numbers to recommend?

[ditttohead]

Most residential water sosftener systems have a bypass built onto them. For larger systems, or when you want to make your own, a simple 3 valve bypass will work best. A simple H patter bypass is the most common way to install it.

Here is a very old drawing of the 3 valve bypass, please use ball valves instead of the gate style valves shown.

[lifespeed]

I had thought of using two three-way valves, replacing the tees in your diagram above. However, it may be the reduction in valve count is overcome by their somewhat less common availability.

As always, more than one way to arrive at the same solution. Perhaps your approach is better due to the use of one extra, but more commonly available open/close valves.

[ditttohead]

Exactly right. 3 way valves are considerably more expensive, flow direction have to be considered, and valve configuration has to be addressed. A 3 valve bypass uses common off the shelf components with no complexity. I use 3 way ball valves, but they are usually used on automated systems for brine diversion, reuse, or waste water recycling. I rarely use them on water filtration systems.

I have never even tried to do a 3 way valve bypass, not even sure if it would work... I may try it though just to see...

[hendrik81]

Most residential water sosftener systems have a bypass built onto them. For larger systems, or when you want to make your own, a simple 3 valve bypass will work best. A simple H patter bypass is the most common way to install it.

Here is a very old drawing of the 3 valve bypass, please use ball valves instead of the gate style valves shown.

I think this diagram is good even though it is old drawing, it work for my application

[Gary Slusser]

But it is backwards for Autotrol, their inlet is on the left.

A manual by pass is expensive and there is no need for one regardless the size of the equipment used in residential applications.

The factory by pass for each piece of equipment is the best choice.

[lifespeed]

But it is backwards for Autotrol, their inlet is on the left.

A manual by pass is expensive and there is no need for one regardless the size of the equipment used in residential applications.

The factory by pass for each piece of equipment is the best choice.

Yes, after my new equipment arrived I saw they had included the bypass function in their (Fleck) valve. Very nice.

[Gary Slusser]

Three way manual by pass syustems create dead ends of stagnant water in the plumbing that over time can be quite nasty. And the 3 way BP is not near as inexpensive as a factory BP valve that was made specific for the control valve or other valves in their line of control valve.

A 3 way also takes up much more space and time and materials to install.

Removing the softener or filter from the plumbing with a 3 way BP can be impossible without cutting the plumbing.

A factory type stays on the plumbing while you remove the control valve and resin/mineral tank from it very easily and quickly with no plumbing required.