If you can't stop the flow, you might look at dressler couplings.
My old pressure tank for my well gave out yesterday so I was forced to replace it today. Our well is about 400 feet from our home on the other side of a hill. The incoming pipe is 1" PVC which I had to cut in order to perform the replacement. I had removed the circuit/safety switch prior to any work so the well pump had no power (I had also removed the wiring from the pressure switch). I was not surprised to see water come out after cutting the PVC pipe but I was surprised that it did not even slow after 20 minutes (I'd guess 1 gallon per minute). I decided that it might not stop so I used my PVC cement to put it back together while the water was flowing (I did open the drain on the new tank so no pressure would build up as I worked). FWIW - I was using the 2-part standard PVC cement (purple primer plus glue). The new connection is dripping a drop or two every 10 seconds. I know that I need to remove that weld and try again but I'm trying to figure out my best plan of attack to succeed the second time around. Also, how pressing is this? Do I need to repair it immediately or can it wait a day or two (I don't want total failure!!!). Thanks for any input!
Use this, allow 30mins before pressurizing the line.
thrice the price of the regular stuff and works just about the same LOL
[B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]
Are you sure there are no shut-offs that you can use to stop the flow of water? If not, this would be a good time to add some ball valves to your system.
I would never trust any pressurized PVC joint that was not completely dry when the joint was solvent welded, no matter what "glue" was used.
If the pipe is new, it only takes about 5 minutes to get a bond strong enough to hold water pressure. I would however let it dry for 3-4 hours minimum and over night nominally, just to allow the solvent to cure. If you haven't bought the pvc glue yet, buy the "heavy duty clear" made by a company called Oatey. This is the strongest stuff you can buy in the box stores.
Good job on the copy/paste LOL.
That glue is no different than the stuff the OP tried already! I have used the wet dry glue many times in wet conditions and it has always worked. It is extremely fast setting and made for these situations. Do you own stock in Oatey or are you just trying to sound like you know something about plumbing?
Terry, I believe this is what you're talking about - Telescoping Repair Coupling, White, 1-Inch
I will look for one on my way home tonight. If that doesn't work, I figure that I should install a ball-valve on the vertical portion of the pipe figuring that I can keep the connection dry enough to get a solid connection.
I've been a lurker on this site whenever I've needed plumbing answers but I've always been able to find my solution w/o posting. Thanks for all of the replies!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2035935 This time, it's copy and paste of 2 posts with a minor edit.
Nothing original to contribute? Come on, you must have something to say of your own
I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator
That telescoping coupler is not a Dressler coupler. I did a hurried search for a good photo of a Dressler and finally found that **** has some listings for them. Not suggesting you buy one there, but you can see what they look like. I have used the telescoping coupler successfully on 3/4" sprinkler lines, but I'm a bit doubtful that they would be the best for your situation.
Ok - so the dressler coupling is a BUST - literally. I do not recommend them for this type of repair. I put one on and was fortunate to be only about 20' away when it BLEW. I thought that I might not have tightened it enough or had the rubber gaskets slid far enough up the pipe, so I gave it a second try. Sure enough, it blew again. So, now I am going to plan C. I've cut the pipe on the vertical and installed a ball-valve. I am waiting 2 hours for the joint to dry and then stopping the flow (completely if all goes well).
I've done a little thinking about the absense of a cut-off before the pressure tank. I'm not sure if having one (like I just installed) meets code. If you think about it, giving the home-owner the ability to stop the flow of water before the pressure switch can be a very bad idea. At best, you could burn out your well pump. At worst, bust the pipe somewhere. I would also guess that the builder's plumber didn't even have to consider this problem since the pipes were all installed before the well pump was run for the first time. They wouldn't have had to deal with the syphon effect that I am encountering.
What solvent cement did you use on that joint? I've never seen any that's baby-poop brown.
That is for CPVC. It looks like you are using PVC, correct?