(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Americast Princeton Tub - leveling

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member seanjg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    3

    Default Americast Princeton Tub - leveling

    I am replacing a second floor tub with an Americast Princeton tub. The subfloor is about 5/8" out of level in the 30" width of the tub. It slopes down on the apron side. The old tub was not level and water ran out from showers and did some minor subfloor damage at the front corner of the apron by the drain. I cut out and replaced a section of the plywood subfloor to make sure I had a solid subfloor.

    To get this new tub installed correctly, I suppose the apron will need to be shimmed up about 5/8". My question is: it seems that most of the tub weight (water and/or person) will be on the on the sides of the tub where it rests on the stringer and on the shims under the apron rather than on the plastic honeycomb bottom transferring the weight directly to the subfloor. The instructions say that the that the base does not need to contact the floor for there to be a proper installation. But this doesn't seem to be nearly as stable as placing some piles of mortar under the honey comb base. I have read about putting some plastic over the mortar to keep it from directly bonding to the tub.

    I have hired a plumber who has helped me in the past. He says that he does not use a motar with Americast tubs. However, in this case with the need to use 5/8" of shim, would it make for a better installation to use mortar to take up the space between the subfloor and the tub so to establish weight transfer contact with the subfloor? I am concern about the weight deflecting the tub. Porcelain doesn't flex like steel.
    Last edited by seanjg; 03-25-2012 at 07:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    South*East
    Posts
    1,121

    Default

    The tub should be supported across the back and not the sides.

    John

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member seanjg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I guess I have my terms wrong if you mean the 60" stringer is the back. If that is the back, then the 2 x 4 stringer and the apron will support the weight of the tub. But without mortar under the bottom, all the weight will be on the back (60" section that rests on the stringer) and the apron (if that is where it needs to be shimmed to achieve level). My question is: Even though AmStardard says the bottom does not need contact with the subfloor, wouldn't it be better (less stress to the tub, possible flexing, and possible damage to the finish) if the bottom was supported with mortar?

    My plumber says he doesn't use a mortar bed (or piles with an Americast tub), but I would like to ask him to do so because the tub needs to be shimmed 5/8" to achieve a level installation. Is this a good move?
    Last edited by seanjg; 03-26-2012 at 04:48 AM. Reason: grammer

  4. #4
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,632

    Default

    How are you going to "hide" the fact that the front of the tub is 5/8" above the floor? You cannot do it with a few shims, so you should have to put something under the entire apron, in which case there will not be stress points.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member seanjg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    How are you going to "hide" the fact that the front of the tub is 5/8" above the floor? You cannot do it with a few shims, so you should have to put something under the entire apron, in which case there will not be stress points.

    Agreed, I ripped a 5/8" section off a 60" long 2x4. That should provide good support for the apron. I'm going to tile the 5'x6' remaining area of the floor. With enough mud, the tile and mud should conceal the shim. I called American Standard support and they confirmed that the mortar under the waffle board bottom will improve the installation.

    Appreciate all the advice on this forum. Also got two more Toto Drakes for the house. Very pleased with the first one I purchased a year ago for the first floor bath.

Similar Threads

  1. leveling a tub
    By Taylor in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-04-2010, 02:19 PM
  2. americast's Princeton bathtub creaking
    By billy9 in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-16-2009, 06:43 PM
  3. 30 X 60 Tub - Anything Besides Villager or Princeton?
    By sheellah in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-12-2009, 12:24 AM
  4. Kohler Villager or American Standard Princeton
    By Rmok1111 in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-30-2008, 03:51 PM
  5. Self-Leveling cement
    By Bosun in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 09-26-2007, 10:03 AM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •