
Originally Posted by
FleckLander
My 7000SXT softener should be arriving on Wednesday. Dealer has indicated that it is a current USA production valve. Will be shipped in 4 separate boxes. Customer comments on their website indicate that items were packaged well, so hopefully they'll keep the valve in its original factory box.
Now I have to decide on how to replumb for the new softener. Current brass valve softener is only a little more than 3 feet along the copper tubing from the control valve outlet to the inlet of the water heater. Installation instructions indicate that the noryl valve shouldn't be any closer than 10 feet from the water heater inlet. I can move away from the water heater and put in a drop for the softener just after the hard cold takeoff for the kitchen sink and outside hose bibs and get about 12 feet from the water heater inlet, which should be OK. I priced 1" copper today. Ten feet of 1" tubing and a few fittings is probably going to cost almost what it cost fifty years ago for materials to plumb the whole house.....lol. Probably not good form though to drop down from the copper with CPVC to the softener.
I'll be using the Fleck 7000 bypass valve, so I shouldn't need another bypass set up in the plumbing pipes? My plan is to put a 1' FP ball valve on the inlet pipe to the Fleck bypass valve only, and then run Falcon SS flexible connectors from copper 1" MPT adapters on the copper inlet and outlet pipes to the Fleck bypass valve 1" MPT adapters. If the Fleck bypass ever failed, I could just shut off the inlet ball valve, disconnect the Fleck bypass valve, and then connect a flexible connector to the 1" MPT copper inlet and outlet pipes and have a bypass until the Fleck bypass could be repaired. If I go with Falcon SS flexible connectors, can you run them in a "J" pattern off the vertical copper tubing? If so, how long should the horizontal leg be to allow a little room to flex? Thanks for any tips anyone can give me on this.
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