Closet flange extension options

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bird is da word

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Help with closet flange extension options

Hello, I am a first time poster on this forum and have a remodeling hurdle I am seeking advice on.

I am remodeling a 1/2 bath and adjacent den in my 1940's cape cod. The house sits on a slab foundation. The closet flange is brass/bronze with a lead riser. It is in excellent condition and extremely sturdy/rigid. In other words, i DO NOT want to remove the existing flange/riser.

Details....
I am debating two floor prep options that involve leveling compounds and/or schluter ditra decoupling membranes. My initial thought was to level the bath and den with a mono pour. This leveling underlayment will have a buried electric radiant cable and increase the floor height by 1/2". In the bath I would then use the ditra membrane to decouple the mosaic tile from the underlayment. I am estimating this will add another 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the overall increase of the floor. I am guessing this will raise the finished floor 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the top of the flange. My second option was to install forms to prevent the leveling underlayment from setting in the bath. I would then set the radiant cable along with the ditra decoupler over the current concrete subfloor. This would greatly reduce the total add on height of the finished floor but will present other challanges not related to the toilet flange. The finished floor in the 1/2 bath will be mosaic pebble stones.

I am seeking feed back on flange extension options, limitations to maximum height differential between flange and finished floor, wax build up, etc. Are there extensions made for this "antique" closet flange? Will a PVC extension work? Will option 1 create too much of a difference in height to correct? Are there other alternatives that allow me to replace the flange without breaking up the concrete and extending its height?

My preference is to go with option 1. Although, option 2 is doable I would like to avoid a transition in the door way to accomodate an elevation change between rooms and avoid the hassle of installing a pocket door frame kit at the edge of the newly leveled floor(don't want the K15 to fracture in this area since it is close to the edge).

Also, my plumber will be finishing the relocated rough in next week. I will be floating these questions by him but opinions are like ********. I would prefer to have some proven techniques to bounce off him, he may not have knowledge of all of the options available for this situation.

Any advice is appreciated and I thank you in advance.
 
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Jadnashua

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Whenever you have the option, do it right. In the case of a toilet flange, that is to install it on TOP of the finished floor with the base of the flange flat on and screwed down to that finished floor. Depending on how easy access you have to the drain line, this can be easy or hard. To keep from having to screw through and drill into the tile, you can make a notch for them prior to setting the tile.

Note on the Ditra, there is a minimum size for the tile that you likely won't have with a mosaic. You may need to work with a different decoupling membrane or choose a larger tile. The problem is on small tile, they may not be supported by enough pedestals of thinset between the plastic towers, and could allow them to tip into the membrane, rather than being supported solidly by the thinset. Double-check their installation instructions.
 

bird is da word

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jad,
in my situation the the lead riser and closet flange are embedded in concrete, that happens to be the slab foundation of the house. I cannot break up the floor because of domestic water supply lines that run in the concrete behind the toilet(don't ask, the house is 50+ yrs old). Is it possible to cut the existing flange out flush with the current floor and use a twist and set style flange anchored with concrete screws into my newly leveled floor?

thanks for the heads up on the ditra...i read something about tile size on their website and was not able to get in touch with anyone in the tech assistance dept. i will look for other decouplers.
 

Plumber1

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flange

Jim is right when he says put the flange on the finished floor.

Don't mess with the lead ferrol and brass closet flange.

But if you cannot replace the riser and your adding 1/2" to the floor, and if it were mine I would use a pair of long closet bolts and a setting seal with a horn and a regular setting seal. Put the regular seal on the flange and put the horn of the other seal into the first seal and then set the toilet....
 

Gary Swart

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This has nothing to do with your original question, but when I read that you have 50+ year old water lines imbedded in concrete, a bell went off! Pipes that old are almost certainly galvanized pipes and have reach the point of needing replacement. This would be the time to do that. Galvanized pipes corrode on the inside cutting down water flow and eventually developing leaks. It will never be easier or less expensive to make the change than now. Also, I wouldn't worry so much about saving that old flange. It may be wonderful and all, but flanges installed properly will last longer than you or I will ever need to be concerned with. Do the job right now and be done with it.
 

bird is da word

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Gary,
Thanks for the feedback. I know for certain that the pipes are copper. My mechanical room is in the adjacent room to this 1/2 bath and has all copper plumbing that runs into the floor. I also saw the plumbing in the floor when I removed a section of wall that sat in the concrete...a trough so to speak.

Sections of this house had an old hydronic radiant floor. It appears the that the house was framed and plastered on slab and then the radiant system was routed. Afterwords, another 4 to six inches on concrete was poured to finish the subfloor. With the plastered walls torn off you can see framing and sill plates below the finished level of the floor. The good news is the sill plates have been extremely dry.

You are definitely correct about a well mounted flange. This one is superb. Leaving it in place is still much desired compared to demo and replacement.

I am beginning to think that I will exhaust every effort to minimize adding height to the floor and use oversized or double wax rings.
 
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