Only because I want to give the tub a thorough clean before installing new cement backer board around it and then tiling - worried about old rusty nails that maybe don't need to be there...
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Renovating the bathroom. Have the old fake tile out and drywall, down to studs and the tub, which has finishing nails (rusting) holding the tub flange to the wall (as if). Can I take these out? Does a tub actually need those? As they are all sticking out a bit and seem to be adding no structural value whatsoever.
TY for advice.
Lelani
Only because I want to give the tub a thorough clean before installing new cement backer board around it and then tiling - worried about old rusty nails that maybe don't need to be there...
What is your plan for water proofing before tiling?
It used to be common to use large head galv. roofing nails. I like coated deck screw with a 3/8" diameter SS flat washer.
What kind of tub is it? That would normally only be done with an enameled steel or plastic tub. Either of which should be replaced if you have gone to the trouble of removing the walls already.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
Lelani the finish nails are no good and should come out.
Screws are less than ideal drilled through the flange.
What works great are the window install clips with a few wraps of electrical tape. This gives slight pressure fit once screwed on and doesn't prevent slight movement.
We like to use Kerdi band before installing the cement board around the studs and if you go this route you can skip the electrical tape. A little Kerdi fix and you are close to a bullet proof install.
Once that step is done you can lap some poly over the kerdi fix and up the wall 5' and cover with cement board and tape the seams.
Or you can tape the seams, skip the poly and use a product like Aqua Defence, Kerdi, Noble Seal TS, Red Guard, Hydro Ban which are all topical waterproofing products.
I prefer working with Green EBoard here in Vancouver as it's a much more enviromentaly friendly product and easier to cut and install. Working with Green EBoard also makes building a custom niche or two much faster and easier.
I have a wack of kerdi and noble seal ts off cuts if you are pinching your pennies. Your welcome to them.
The blue stuff is Mapei HPG and is readily available here in Vancouver
Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-18-2012 at 09:46 AM.
"When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER
Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com
It appears to be an enameled steel tub. I REALLY don't want to replace it, as it is in good condition, except a wee bit of rust in a couple of spots on the side and flange (won't be visible). BUT, just so I know, what's a lifespan on those things? This one is ~20 years old.
Long side of tub is on an outside wall, so 6 mil poly over the insulation - I am redoing the poly and possibly the insulation, tho things look pretty good back there. Thought I'd just do the 6 mil poly on the side walls as well, which never HAD a vapor barrier before.
Then yes, cement board (I have Hardiebacker only because that's what the local hardware store sold), tape and thinset mortar in seams, and then, ultimately, tile.
What are these window things of which you speak? The holes in the tub flange are tiny, but I suppose I could enlarge them.
I am in the middle of nowhere, far from Vancouver, but we will make trek to Kamloops for the tile so I could get other things I need at that point.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Lelani
Tub would be almost impossible to get out without wrecking another wall, tho it could be done. But I can't find any steel tubs in grey (the colour scheme) and DON'T want acrylic. Is there anything I could do to the few tiny rust patches to extend its life? As I said, none will be visible (once renovated), just corners of the flange. Tub body is in awesome shape. I was thinking naval jelly or some other rust eater, bit of wire brush, maybe rustoleum over that? Thoughts welcome.
Steel tubs are on the low end of the totum pole and you're lucky you got 20-years out of it.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013
K so what is the high end? I am bowing to the inevitable and thinking yes should replace tub, as I want this whole effort to last forever (at least until I die or sell the house). But I really want grey, not white, nothing fancy just your basic 5' x 30" tub (that is all that will fit) and NOT acrylic, that just seems lame. Any suppliers in western Canada that have that? I have also left a message with my neighbour/plumber and hope to talk to him soon.
You could never go wrong with a good cast iron tub, and they come in any color you might want.
quote; BUT, just so I know, what's a lifespan on those things? This one is ~20 years old.
Actually, a steel tub starts deteriorating almost as soon as it is installed, because it is basically paint over metal. If you were to remove the drain and overflow fittings you might find the openings severely rusted. Those locations are where most steel tubs fail, unless something damages the coating to expose the metal. Cast iron tubs are best, followed by American Standard's Americast.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
Well, if you look more closely, it is very unlikely that your 20 year old tub is in "good condition" . The enamel surface will have lost some of its sheen, depending on how often it has been scrubbed. And we would be shocked if there is not cancer at least beginning, around the drain and overflows. If you expect another 20 years from this remodel job, you simply can not count on that tub.
AND,,,,,this is just my opinion....there is only one color choice: white. Let your tile work and accessories deal with colors, but the porcelains should be white. Ask the folks who fell in love with pink tubs and avocado refrigerators
Last edited by jimbo; 03-19-2012 at 06:37 AM.
20 years ago was 1992. Depending on the ACTUAL condition of the tub I might would keep it. No one can simply say its 20 years old and it needs to be replaced and be accurate in every case.
I've replaced the drain on steel tubs that are 40 years + old without issues. Depends on the quality of the steel tub and how much use/care the tub has had.
But sure replace it if you want.......I dont mind you spending your money. Infact...replace it. See how easy it is for me to say that?
I'm with Hackney on this call as well. If the tub is in good condition and can be left installed I'm for this. Give it a good inspection and if it is border line then replace it.
If you have a habitat for hummamanity perhaps someone less forturnate can use it?
JW
"When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER
Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com
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