Toilevator + ADA Toilet?

**tev9999** · 03-09-2012, 11:18 AM

I am currently in the process of renovating my mother's bathroom. She has very bad arthritis in her knees and has a very difficult time getting up from any chair. For years she has been using the over toilet commode raised pretty much to its maximum height, but those are quite unsanitary IMO, plus not very sturdy. Would much rather she had a solid toilet with grab bars on the walls.

We have an ADA toilet that will be going in once the tile is done, but at 16.5" it is still not high enough. She keeps the commode pretty much at the max height which I think is 20"+. I was thinking of adding a toilevator under it. Overall that is going to end up being around 22" with seat. Will the toilevator handle this without a problem?

The plumbing is a cast iron flange which looks to be in good shape. Floor is 3/4 ply + 1/4 hardibacker + full body porcelain tile if that matters.

**swannyriver** · 03-10-2012, 01:03 PM

Try the Centoco.com website. They have 2" and 3" toilet seats that attach to the bowl like any other seat and will probably work for her. They are very sturdy, look and work like any other toilet seat.
My American Standard bowl plus Centoco seat STF height is just over 20".

hj · 03-10-2012, 01:25 PM

An ADA toilet is still just a toilet, so anything that fits ON or UNDER a toilet will work with it.

**tev9999** · 03-15-2012, 03:49 AM

Things can never go easily... I determined the toilet is actually a 17.5" and was going to set it with a taller seat. I now discover that my toilet flange is too high - close to an inch off the floor.

Is the easiest fix to drill out the lead, remove the flange, cut down the pipe and install a Twist-N-Set PVC flange? What is the easiest way to cut down the pipe? I don't have an angle grinder, but do have a sawzall.

**Terry** · 03-15-2012, 08:59 AM

You should remove the lead bend and use either cast iron or plastic for the drain.
A twist and set is not an option with the lead.

http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ng-a-lead-bend

I normally just pull the lead out of the cast iron tee, and use a 4x3 flush bush into a insert rubber pipe donut.

**tev9999** · 03-15-2012, 11:08 AM

So I think you are telling me I don't have enough vertical drop for the twist and set connector to seal before hitting the bend? That makes sense.

I don't I have easy access to that bend. It is right near a main support beam and some built-in bookcases in the basement. Going all the way back to the stack, or cutting the horizontal pipe and mating PVC, might be easier to access. Can't quite picture it now since I'm not there.

Is there any way to attach a new flange after lowering the pipe a bit? I did pick up an angle grinder at lunch thinking I would have to cut something, plus I have had the need for one in the past.

Here is a rather blurry picture of what I am dealing with.

Thanks!