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Thread: CR100 with KDF-85

  1. #46
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    To unlock
    down-next-up-clock
    done like one would use a touch tone phone.
    That should unlock the programing so that you can change the backwash time

  2. #47
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I try not to comment on systems that I am not sure I can give a good answer to but... many of the Clack valves are not adjustable other than their pre-set parameters, or "hi" and "regular" settings. I am not sure of the Greenway, but I would guess that could be your problem. It may not be adjustable. BTW, I have worked on a few of those units in the field, they are excellent systems. Many of the Clack proprietary valves are programmable. So my answer means nothing. Let me know when you find out from Greenway if the times are fully adjustable. Thanks!

  3. #48
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I sold hundreds a year for 6.5 years and never saw a Clack valve that didn't allow "adjustments". They were all stock nonproprietary valves.

    To get into part of the programing you push in the Next and Up arrow buttons both at the exact same time and hold for 3 or so seconds. The other part is Next and Down arrow done the same way. You push the Next button to go from one field to the next. Having someone locked out was very rare and I could never remember the unlock or locking sequence of what buttons that had to be pushed within a short period of time, so I always had to read the instructions.

    Just recently I was on the Clack web site and there are no manuals there now or I missed them.
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  4. #49
    DIY Member rjh2o's Avatar
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    Changing the backwash time will accomplish nothing to combat "smell" with this system. One of 3 problems is causing the smell issue. Either they did not add the proper amount of KDF (28lbs per 10x54 tank), the chlorine generator is set too low (yes it is adjustable) or there is bacterial growth in the plumbing lines "after" softener. This occurs frequently at sinks that have plastic water lines feeding bathroom and kitchen faucets. You can chlorinate the house as Gary suggested or replace any plastic lines with stainless steel braided water lines. There is a specific sequence entered to access programming.
    RJ

  5. #50
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    How is the chlorine generator adjustable?
    I have seen them on the older Fleck that was used by Water right and now the Clack that is in use, have not seen where one can adjust the chlorine.
    Maybe I have missed it and if so where is it that one would adjust the chlorine?

  6. #51
    DIY Member royerm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjh2o View Post
    Changing the backwash time will accomplish nothing to combat "smell" with this system. One of 3 problems is causing the smell issue. Either they did not add the proper amount of KDF (28lbs per 10x54 tank), the chlorine generator is set too low (yes it is adjustable) or there is bacterial growth in the plumbing lines "after" softener. This occurs frequently at sinks that have plastic water lines feeding bathroom and kitchen faucets. You can chlorinate the house as Gary suggested or replace any plastic lines with stainless steel braided water lines. There is a specific sequence entered to access programming.
    RJ
    Interesting......No plastic water line in my case, I will have to double check the amount of KDF that was added
    and I have no idea about the chlorinator adjustment and will chlorinate the house as Gary suggested.

    Was busy outside today and I will call them back tomorrow to see what they have to say (greenway)

  7. #52
    DIY Member royerm's Avatar
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    Here's the latest development.....

    I'm finally in contact with the Regional guy from Greenway,
    which has talk to the distributor that has been in touch with my sales shop.

    In short, everyone is protecting his pants.

    Anyhow, as stated at beginning of thread, I've mentioned
    that sulfur appeared a couple of month after my new installation
    and that I was prescribed to add the KDF-85.

    Now the main office guy says that it should of not gone on top
    as it is heavy and that the back-wash is not getting done efficiently....
    His solution is to have it re-bed by the distributor with new media
    the proper way. Kind enough to sync the shipping of product so that I'm not out
    of softener for too long.......Oh!! at my own expense.

    I have not heard yet anything from my salesman and distributor.
    Maybe they are setting up something to help me, I will find out today.

    OH, by the way ,I had been in touch with the main Office back in July
    and it was not a problem to add the KDF back then....

    Any comments?????

  8. #53
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    Yes the KDF is heavy, but after a few back washes the KDF most likely is at the bottom of the media tank on top of the gravel like it should be.

    It could be that the chlorine generator is not working, ask them how to test it to make sure that it is making the chlorine at it is drawing brine.

  9. #54
    DIY Member royerm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    Yes the KDF is heavy, but after a few back washes the KDF most likely is at the bottom of the media tank on top of the gravel like it should be.

    It could be that the chlorine generator is not working, ask them how to test it to make sure that it is making the chlorine at it is drawing brine.
    Just opened it up, and seems that KDF (copper color) is on top, surely doesn't look like any white stuff.
    It seems pretty packed up also as I tried to move it a bit with a 3/4 pipe.

    cheers...

  10. #55
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    What is the back wash flow control for your unit?
    5gpm? or greater?
    It should have moved to the bottom if the water in the back wash is ALL going down the tube to the bottom, but if it for some reason is not going to the bottom because the O ring in the valve that seals it to the distributor is bad then a good deal of water will bypass the tube.

  11. #56
    DIY Member royerm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    What is the back wash flow control for your unit?
    Can you elaborate on this one....

    5gpm? or greater?
    It should have moved to the bottom if the water in the back wash is ALL going down the tube to the bottom, but if it for some reason is not going to the bottom because the O ring in the valve that seals it to the distributor is bad then a good deal of water will bypass the tube.
    The unit needs 5-7GPM and I'm told it is set to 7GPM.
    Darn I saw the backwash coming out of the 5/8 hose coming out pretty strongly...

    Thx

  12. #57
    DIY Junior Member MaineWT's Avatar
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    I stumbled across this thread looking for something else and thought I might add my 2 cents as I have had a few customers try to add KDF to a Sanitizer just like you did to no avail. When you pour in the KDF all at once on the top it will act like a plug and ride up and down during backwash and will not typically settle to the bottom. The proper way to add KDF (and it should be 16 pounds in a 10" tank to create a 2" layer) is to poke a bunch of holes down into the CR100 and then pour in about a 1/3 of the KDF, then poke more holes, pour another 1/3, poke more holes and pour the remaining third. Then put the unit into backwash and the KDF will fall to the bottom. In your case I would try to poke as much down into the bed as you can until you see a lot of white or at least a good mix and then put the unit into backwash. I would also confirm the DLFC is a 7GPM and that the numbers face toward you when you remove the clip on the DLFC housing to check the flow rate. Good Luck!!

  13. #58
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by royerm View Post
    The unit needs 5-7GPM and I'm told it is set to 7GPM.
    Darn I saw the backwash coming out of the 5/8 hose coming out pretty strongly...

    Thx
    Zeolite is heavier than resin and it may have prevented all of the KDF from falling to the bottom of the tank under the Zeolite.

    The volume of water going out the drain line doesn't mean all the water is going down the distributor tube and out under the resin/KDF in the bottom of the tank and up through the stuff and out the top of the tank. It could mean that the water is going into the top of the tank and across to the outlet and out the drain line instead of going to the bottom of the dist. tube etc..

    What did you find out about the valve being locked or being "adjustable" or not?

    I see MaineWT and I were posting at the same time, and he proves my guess of the KDF laying on top the Zeolite.
    Last edited by Gary Slusser; 03-15-2012 at 12:27 PM.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  14. #59
    DIY Junior Member MaineWT's Avatar
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    Not sure about the Greenway version but with the regular Sanitizer using the Clack based valve you can adjust the chlorination, my guess is you should be able to adjust yours as well. After you unlock the valve, hold next and minus simultaneously until the screen changes to "softening", then hit next several times and make your way down the menu until you see "generate chlorine". At that point hold set clock and plus simultaneously for a couple of seconds. From there you should be able to use either the plus or minus button to cycle through low, medium or high.

  15. #60
    DIY Member royerm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    Zeolite is heavier than resin and it may have prevented all of the KDF from falling to the bottom of the tank under the Zeolite.

    The volume of water going out the drain line doesn't mean all the water is going down the distributor tube and out under the resin/KDF in the bottom of the tank and up through the stuff and out the top of the tank. It could mean that the water is going into the top of the tank and across to the outlet and out the drain line instead of going to the bottom of the dist. tube etc..

    What did you find out about the valve being locked or being "adjustable" or not?

    I see MaineWT and I were posting at the same time, and he proves my guess of the KDF laying on top the Zeolite.
    I was on the phone for 1.5 hrs and completely forgot about that one....
    I should be talking to him again tomorrow and will ask...
    I know from him that the Chlorinator is adjustable, he said that they adjust it to MAX
    but I was under the impression that it was not thru the control board, anyhow I'm making
    a note so that I do not forget......Thx

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