Should have gone with calcite as the ph correction and then the CR200...
In about 4 years you are going to if not sooner have to rebed the CR100 as it will be going by by ....
You are using straight extra course?
In days gone by Morton used 3 colors, yellow, green and blue.
It was the Blue that was used for systems like yours.
Extra course, rock salt.
What salt are you using?
""Windsor select plus extra Pure""......
Not sure/don't know if there is better..and I may not have the same product available
If there is an additive in the salt then the system will not work.
Check to see if there is any additive in that salt.
It should be just salt and NOTHING ELSE.
Good, had me going for a bit..
Zeolite does not like additives in the salt.
Move the default days and up the back wash time and it should get back to working.
One last question if you don't mind...
How did you came out with a salt usage of 6.1 lbs??????
Because I have a spec sheet for Water Right and the different units.
Is the smell coming from the cold water and hot or just hot? Also is the smell more prevalent at one particular faucet? Has the water been tested for iron bacteria? The chlorine generator has an adjustment from 10% on up and it may be a matter of having to turn the chlorine generator up depending on the H2S, iron bacteria or sulfate bacteria levels. A 10 x 54 sanitizer should have 28 lbs of KDF 85. Many dealers are nor adding the KDF media because of the expense of the media.
Has the water been consistently soft?
Same scheme on any faucet, I mean by this that the water is OK for 5 glasses, than smell for 5 glasses
anf If I keep it running it goes away????
No iron bacteria..
The adjustment for the chlorine generator is new to me...
Not sure how many lbs of KDF was added but some was added 2 months
after the initial install.
And last water has been soft Yes..
I think you might have bacteria growth somewhere in the softener or in the plumbing.
Do you have any disposable cartridge filters anywhere in the system?
If so you might want to do this; remove the cartridge and put a 1/2-2/3rds liquid cup of non scented bleach in the housing and run water to all faucets in the house one at a time checking for chlorine smell with a glass as the water is running, bending over with your nose on the rim of the glass so you can smell the air coming out of the glass. That's so you don't run out of bleach before you're done with the last faucet. When done let the water sit in the plumbing for at least a half hour before flushing it out.
If no disposable filter, then a 1/3 cup of bleach in a gallon of water poured into the water in your salt tank and do a manual regeneration pulling the plug on the control valve and putting the control in the by pass position when all the water that can be sucked out of the salt tank has been. Wait 30 minutes and plug the control in and put the by pass in Service and allow the unit to finish the regeneration.
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.
The older WaterRight systems did not have an adjustable chlorine generator.. It came on and then turned off when the time was up.
Now it is possible that the chlorine generator is not giving all that it should but still in the range that the program is looking for to set the yellow light and beep.
How long now has the system been running with the changed settings?
I don't seems to be able to change the individual parameters, backwash and rinse.
I can get to the parameter by holding the REGEN button and pressing NEXT to scroll to the
different parameters but cannot seems to be able to change them, I've press plus and minus
while on the backwash parameter thinking it would change it but NOPE.