Why do you say that the mark 100 is dead?
My Culligam Mark100 water softener recently died after 12 yrs and I am in the market for a new softener. I would really appreciate recommendations. I have tried to research water softeners which range anywhere from the Kenmore/Whirlpool($500-700) model in the stores to the Prosoft CS1 EE($700), Fleck 5600 SXT ($600), and Culligan High efficiency softener($2000). I am looking for something dependable, a good value, and something that does not require a special repair tech to work on (read Culligan). I also have a Culligan RO system that seem to be working OK, and I will not plan to replace immediately.
Size of Family: 6
Size of house ~1800 sqr ft
Hardness: 20 gpg
Water source: City
Chloride: 1 ppm
Iron: Non detect
TDS: ~ 400-450
Location of softener: garage next to hot water heater
Thanks for any advice.
Why do you say that the mark 100 is dead?
If it is truly dead and beyond salvaging then either the Fleck or the Clack is a good choice. Stay away from GE, Whirlpool ad big box crap.
This is the comment from the Culligan service rep (as best I can deciper from his handwritting, no official report has yet been received):"Performed inspection on unit. Found control board (motor control) burnt and no longer attached. Found mineral in educator (sp??) and seal pack bad. Found more than 20 ?? of free board and mineral bad. Unable to reset unit due to bad board."
Any point in trying to salvage anything from this? Have you hear anything about the Prosoft CS1 EE-good or bad? I think it is using a Fleck 6700 XTR.
Robert, I checked out the CS1 valve and it does look like a Fleck 6700 but they show an Autotrol bypass. I thought that was strange. IMO the Clack is a better electronic valve and the Fleck 5600 is the best non-electronic valve.
Find a used but still working control board for the mark 100, Find a seal pack assembly and replace if needed.
Media level is about right, maybe a little low but still close to where it should be.
Could be that the board is the only thing that will need to be replaced right now and the seal pack assembly can wait.
A good used board might as high as 75.00.. and the seal kit would be about the same or lower.
Finding a board and seal pack is not a bad idea. If you are wanting to replace the sysem, any Clack or Fleck valve will do you very well. My personal preference for the DIY'r is he Fleck since parts are readily available online, but Fleck and Clack will typically last 10-20 years without a problem so parts arent that big of a deal. Personally, the 600XTR was an awesome idea many years ago, but the 7000SXT, XTR, or NXT would be a better choice. There is nothing wrong with the 6700, other than parts are extremely expensive on it. Really though, of the thousands we have sold, we have only had to order a few boards, so it is not a major concern, more of a thought. The 7000SXT board is a lot less expensive if it ever did fail, as is the meter. These are half the cost of the 6700XTR components. Since the introduction of the 7000, my 6700 sales have dropped to almost nothing. Same with the 2510. We still sell a boatload of 5600 econominders and a fair amount of 5600SXT's. I beleive the new valve coming out will kill the 5600SXT sales due to its similar price point, higher flow rates, and standard parts used throughout the Fleck line. It will also incorporate several new and "exciting" features already in use by their competition. The 6700 does look great though, they hit a homerun with the cover design. Let us know what you decide.
Yes 16-17" of freeboard is the correct freeboard for the culligan or any other unit with out the upper basket, but if he is at the 22" freeboard it should still work, just remove some capacity from the figures when programing the board if one is found.
To learn about correctly sizing and programing a softener, click on the link in my signature. Then post any questions.
Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.