Help with 2" Cast Iron Hub - Part 2

I'm racking my brains over the same issue as described in another post from this forum.. (Same title, but I don't know how to link threads..)

Trying to go from a 2" XH cast iron hub to 2" ABS. The 2" CI hub ID is 3-1/4" and I've been scouring the web for a compression seal/gasket/dognut that would fit this hub.

I know the gentleman in the previous thread finally used a short piece of 2" CI, oakum and lead. That's cool, but my fitting is at a 45 deg angle from vertical and for a first timer at packing a joint with lead, a little more sporty.



I've removed the 1-1/2" CI branch and have temporarily used a 2x3 Fernco (3" over the bell end) to keep things flowing. (I naively believed my local Ferguson dealer when I had specifically asked for a 2x2 Extra Heavy Fernco dognut and later found it to be SW. Don't know who was the dumb bunny on this one - ah, second thought, don't answer that.)

Anyway, just wondering if anyone knows for sure if there is a compression gasket out there that will fit this hub. If not, any detailed directions on how to pour at this angle would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks and great info on these forums.

Mario

I couldn't get the Fernco.com dimmension page to load for the donuts. But, they make a HUGE selection, but local places are unlikely to carry them all, so you may need to order one. They say in their description that you need to be within 1/32" of the ID of the hub for the donut to work and seal properly. The ID of the donut is easy, but CI has no specific spec on what the ID of the bell has to be, then add in different foundries and different ages, what one made one year, may not be exactly the same as the next.

Very often you can use the Fernco seals. The picture below is for the 4", but but the 2" is very similar to it.
Place this in the hub, taper the pipe and soap it up, and then tap the pipe in.

If you don't want to use lead you could use oakum and lead wool.
http://www.marshield.com/sites/marshield.com/files/leadwool.pdf
John

joint

A 45 degree joint is one of the easiest ones to pour by using a "running rope". Just put the rope around the joint and pour the lead into the "funnel" created by the clamp.

I forgot to mention that I contacted the Fernco rep here in my area. The closest they could come was 2.95" and the next size up was something like 3.6". My CI hub ID is approx. 3-1/4". These are either too small or too large.

A 45 degree joint is one of the easiest ones to pour by using a "running rope". Just put the rope around the joint and pour the lead into the "funnel" created by the clamp.

Click to expand...

I can visualize using the "running rope" technique around the fitting and leaving a hole at the top in which to pour the lead. What material do you use for the "rope" - oakum? I'm having a difficult time envisioning what is referred to as "the clamp". I may just create a dam out of thin aluminum with a formed hole on top and pour it in there..

Here's another question. After you pour the lead and it solidifies, it appears the lead is "packed" or "tamped" into the joint. Is it critical you pack the lead soon after the pour while it's somewhat soft or can you tamp or pack it down after it's set up for a while? Any danger in heating the CI hub to get the lead to settle if the pour doesn't come out even?

Thanks for everyone's replies..

johnjh2o1,

I may give this a try, since the joint isn't going to be subject to undue pressure or having pooled water in this area.

Have you folks used the oakum and lead wool to fill in around any of the plastics, like ABS or PVC?

Found a company through another forum, Dallas Specialties, that makes a 2x2 XH, what they call a "Spudnut", compression fitting. Am waiting to get their spec sheet with dimensions to see if this may work.

See page 7 of http://www.dallasspecialty.com/Sub/pdf/Catalog.pdf

MajMetro said:

Have you folks used the oakum and lead wool to fill in around any of the plastics, like ABS or PVC?

Found a company through another forum, Dallas Specialties, that makes a 2x2 XH, what they call a "Spudnut", compression fitting. Am waiting to get their spec sheet with dimensions to see if this may work.

See page 7 of http://www.dallasspecialty.com/Sub/pdf/Catalog.pdf

Click to expand...

Hi,

I've run into a similar issue: 2" XH Cast Iron drain from bath-tub. Used to have 2" steel pipe connected via Lead seal... tore it all out planning to put in ABS DWV only to run across this issue. Seems everyone thinks it's Service Weight, but the "standard" 2" donut (Fernco from Home Depot) is defintely too small or the XH hub!

I'm wondering what your ultimate solution was and if you used or found out if the Dallas Specialty Sputnut worked? Looking in their catalog, it looks like their DS220X-205 is supposed to connect 2" XH Cast Iron to 2" Schedule 4 DWV so thinking it'll be my solution.

Thoughts?
Kimberly