Clack WS1 Draw issue

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Gary Slusser

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IMO based on my experience of servicing equipment sold and installed by plumbers, they were the worst offenders of over tightening problems, among others like installing equipment backwards. They should stick with putting pipes together and telling tall stories of how fast they can do that. lol
 

ditttohead

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IMO based on my experience of servicing equipment sold and installed by plumbers, they were the worst offenders of over tightening problems, among others like installing equipment backwards. They should stick with putting pipes together and telling tall stories of how fast they can do that. lol

I was on a job recently where the plumber was installing the compresion fitting on the fleck 5600 valves brine line. He literally "grunted" when he tightend the 3/8" compression fitting.

Gorilla plumber!
 

Tom Sawyer

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Must be a western or southern thing. Plumbers in the North east know better
 

BobGimley

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So... I have installed the new parts this morning, which consisted of injector, piston and stack. I did the injector by itself and had no luck. Then the stack and piston. Comparing the two stacks and the rubber seals, the new rubber seals were nice and round, while the old ones looked quite flat and/or angular. Put in the new stack assembly and it is sucking brine like a champion. Now to figure out how to program it!
 

Gary Slusser

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So... I have installed the new parts this morning, which consisted of injector, piston and stack. I did the injector by itself and had no luck. Then the stack and piston. Comparing the two stacks and the rubber seals, the new rubber seals were nice and round, while the old ones looked quite flat and/or angular. Put in the new stack assembly and it is sucking brine like a champion. Now to figure out how to program it!
Injectors rarely to never go bad. They do block up with rust though which is easy to clean out.

I'm glad to see your new stack and pistons solved the problem, as I knew they would.

The 'manual' that Tom linked to isn't The Manual you should have but it shows how to program the valve. Except they don't change much from the default settings.

You need to have current hardness, iron and manganese test results (manganese is fairly rare and most dealers etc. do not test for it) if on your own well or a non chlorinated community well.

If on city water, use the highest hardness in the entire system. You can get that info from the Annual Report they mail you or on their web site or by calling them. Don't use a test result of your water or your neighborhood's etc. hardness figure. Use the max in the system.

Then go to the link in my signature and come up with your K of capacity for the volume of resin you have (in cuft) and the salt dose lbs that K of capacity requires for a regeneration on average every 8 days and program with those figures.

I you want to, email me and I'll email you a copy of the Clack Manual. qwasluss @ ptd.net
 

Tom Sawyer

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Thanks for getting him the correct manual. I only have the hard copy, not on my drive so that one is the best I could find. It's not the correct one but as you say, it will show him how to program the head. He will of course need to do a water test first but it's good to see that rebuilding the head solved that problem although with a Clack valve, it usually does.
 

Tom Sawyer

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well I don't really recall much about the thread or deleting anything. I think I made a comment on the second page disputing your usual disdain for the plumbing community but by then most of you guys had already given the OP the options. I suppose I could have seconded the motions though. Occasionally I do have to actually do some work for a living and it's not always easy to keep up with every thread here and the other dozen or so forums I follow.
 
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