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Thread: Moen Shower-Tub Faucet Installed Wrong???

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member moparjer's Avatar
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    Default Moen Shower-Tub Faucet Installed Wrong???

    When our house was built in 2003 the plumber installed two Moen faucets in the two bathrooms. Both control handles stick out too far IMHO and per the Moen catalog photos. I asked the plumber at the time about it and he tried to fix them but couldn't figure out what was wrong. As you can see one is worse. Both have hard water, and that's a week after cleaning!

    Any suggestions???? Here are two photos one of each control. Thanks for your help.

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    In the Trades Plumber111's Avatar
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    Depends if the valves are mounted to the framing or "floating" with the mounting plate.

  3. #3
    In the Trades Plumber111's Avatar
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    The second one actually doesn't look too bad. You remove the Allan screw from the handle. (bet it's gonna' fight you) Remove the handle. Might be a funny looking disc underneath. Black plastic or brass. Can't remember. If it is, take it off.

    Then remove the screws that hold the plate. Remove the plate.

    Look inside the wall with a flashlight and/or see if the valve can move in and out. Might be a plastic mounting plate on the back. If the valve moves, then you might be able to make up a spacer to make the valve mount further back in the wall.

    If it is already mounted firmly to the framing, odds are you will not be able to move it. It would likely be more difficult than it is worth. And if it has a tub spout you will have to adjust it's length and mount. Also might not make it worthwhile.

    Car Wax works good on chrome.
    Last edited by Plumber111; 02-14-2012 at 08:21 PM. Reason: Forgot about the tub spout.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member moparjer's Avatar
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    Default Thanks for the help

    I'll give your idea a shot. I usually use A-maz products to clean everything. http://http://www.a-maz.com/



    [





    QUOTE=Plumber111;333605]The second one actually doesn't look too bad. You remove the Allan screw from the handle. (bet it's gonna' fight you) Remove the handle. Might be a funny looking disc underneath. Black plastic or brass. Can't remember. If it is, take it off.

    Then remove the screws that hold the plate. Remove the plate.

    Look inside the wall with a flashlight and/or see if the valve can move in and out. Might be a plastic mounting plate on the back. If the valve moves, then you might be able to make up a spacer to make the valve mount further back in the wall.

    If it is already mounted firmly to the framing, odds are you will not be able to move it. It would likely be more difficult than it is worth. And if it has a tub spout you will have to adjust it's length and mount. Also might not make it worthwhile.

    Car Wax works good on chrome. [/QUOTE]

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    This comment comes up often...the manufacturer's viewpoint is if the trim fits, it's okay. They have a min/max, and if it's installed so it will fit, it isn't a problem. As you've discovered, the asthetics may not be to your liking, but based on the installation instructions, it IS okay. The next time, mock it up first, decide where YOU want it, then ensure the plumber installs it there. To change it now, you'd have to move the rough-in valve in the wall back so it doesn't stick out as far. That may or may not be easy. It's easier if you have an access panel so you can get to the valve in the wall from behind. Recommendation, leave it as it is and address it with the plumber when you decide to replace the guts. There are probably trim kits still available, but you'd have the same thing unless the valve is moved. At least it would look better to you!
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    I hit the rough in in the middle. Some higher end valves are designed to have the stems cut off.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Are these for a fiberglass tub and shower enclosure?
    An enclosure can vary quite a bit in distance from the studs, as to where the valve winds up setting.
    Both of those work, and it wouldn't be so noticeable the difference if you didn't keep comparing them, assuming one is right and one is wrong.
    It's frankly a matter of opinion, as to which one is right. You can argue for either one.

    In the plumbing world, they are both right.

    I'm one of five brothers, ranging from 5'-10" to 6'3"
    Which one of us is the wrong height?

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; Recommendation, leave it as it is and address it with the plumber when you decide to replace the guts.

    When I "replace the guts", I do NOT remove the trim ring so I would not have anything to do with repositioning the valve. And, since the manufacturer has a wide +/- range, both valves are correct. If it was incorrect either the plate would not fit against the wall, or the valve would need an "extension" kit. Neither of these valves do either. IF the valves were positioned according to the valve's 'plaster ground plate" the lower one would be closer to the standard, although NEITHER would match the way the handle is positioned in the catalogs. The catalog picture was taken from a display which was set up with absolutely no consideration as to HOW the specifications call for it, nor what would happen if the plumber tried to install it that way and then the customer changed his tile or other wall surface dimension.
    Last edited by hj; 02-15-2012 at 02:58 PM.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    While maybe not clear, I was not talking about the cartridge, I was talking about the whole valve assembly as the 'guts'. To get the trim to project less, you have to move the valve. But, since it works the way it is, until you want to replace the whole thing, it's probably best to leave it as it is! the time and effort to move the valve and you could just as well install a new one, or at least close. Labor is the bigger thing here, not the cost of the valve. If you can do it yourself, you probably wouldn't be asking the questions, although it isn't terribly hard, it does take some skill you may not have, nor the proper tools to do it. WHen you add those to the cost of the parts, a plumber may be the less expensive option.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    While maybe not clear, I was not talking about the cartridge, I was talking about the whole valve assembly as the 'guts'. To get the trim to project less, you have to move the valve. But, since it works the way it is, until you want to replace the whole thing, it's probably best to leave it as it is! the time and effort to move the valve and you could just as well install a new one, or at least close. Labor is the bigger thing here, not the cost of the valve. If you can do it yourself, you probably wouldn't be asking the questions, although it isn't terribly hard, it does take some skill you may not have, nor the proper tools to do it. WHen you add those to the cost of the parts, a plumber may be the less expensive option.
    Why would he decide to replace the "guts" if that is what we are calling the rough valve?

    If anything I would just adjust the rough in.

  11. #11
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hackney plumbing View Post
    Why would he decide to replace the "guts" if that is what we are calling the rough valve?

    If anything I would just adjust the rough in.
    If he's going to have to pay a plumber to move the rough-in valve, at the age of the unit, I think he'd be better off just replacing the whole thing. then, he'd have new trim and have it installed exactly where he wanted. Otherwise, just live with it.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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