Archer tub by Kohler

**Geo422** · 03-02-2012, 04:59 AM

Would you plumbers suggest changing out the showers tub rough in valve ? This on is a moen that we have it has been in since November 2003 when we built the house. Heck I don't know the life of these.george

**jadnashua** · 03-02-2012, 02:44 PM

The rough-in valve will likely outlive you, but the replacment parts are just that, replaceable. What might be a consideration is the trim, as not all trim, even from the same manufacturer, will fit older valves, and you may not have choices. While there are some aftermarket places making trim for common valves, not everyone, and no, another valve maker's trim won't fit.

So, unless you want to upgrade the trim, and you can't get it from the manufacturer, or you want some new features not available on what you have, it's likely safe to leave it. Most Moen stuff has a lifetime warranty to the original owner. The cartridges contain the 'working' parts, and that can usually be changed fairly easily. Some Moen valves can be difficult to get the old one out due to mineral deposits, etc, but with the right tools, it's not a big deal.

But, while the walls are open, you'll never have an easier/cheaper chance to update it to something new, if you wish.

**cacher_chick** · 03-02-2012, 03:02 PM

Originally Posted by Geo422

The tub is in mortar base ,ledger board perfect level in all direction
For the life of me can not figure out the furring strips on the studs that kohler says to do. Seems like it would cause the green board and tile to be uneven with the drywall . Thanks george

Not sure what your plan is, but green board is pretty much a thing of the past is is not recommended for a tub/shower surround.

There are a couple ways to do the wall. One is to notch the studs so that the tub's tiling flange is flush. The other is to fir out the studs above the tub so that the wallboard/cement board comes out over the tile flange. It is pretty common to leave a sizable gap between the tub deck and the wallboard and then just tile over it. Make sure your vapor barrier overlaps the tile flange so the moisture does not run behind the tub.

**Geo422** · 03-02-2012, 04:59 PM

So to be on the safe side and use cement board in the tub area
Come to think about it the green board I just tore out felt like it had moisture in it . If cement board isn't the correct and best choice let me know vapor barrier is behind the tub and goes down to floor . Thanks george

**jadnashua** · 03-02-2012, 05:43 PM

The current national codes no longer allow greenboard (moisture resistant drywall) in a shower or tub surround. That does not mean that your local codes have been updated, but regardless, it doesn't work well. I'd use cbu (cementeous backer unit...aka cement board). While it does get wet, moisture doesn't hurt it. Ideally, it laps over the tiling flange, but you can stop it above the flange as long as the tile will be supported by at least 1/2 on the cbu. Do put in a vapor barrier behind it and lap that over the flange, though. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on taping the seams with the alkalai resistant mesh tape (looks like the stuff used for drywall, but different material).

**Geo422** · 03-03-2012, 04:05 AM

Thanks to all the people who took time to answer . The older people I been around used roofing felt paper to put under
The cement board now i realize they used it for vapor barrier
. Is that still done today ?15 or 30 lb roofing paper behind cement board should
be 0 water vapor getting past it. George

**jadnashua** · 03-03-2012, 06:52 PM

Plastic or roofing felt on the walls behind cbu in a tub or shower will work fine.

**Geo422** · 03-08-2012, 04:28 AM

From all the information you web site gave me I knew the questions to ask the tile guy . And the answers were right on with this site.thanks geo

**Geo422** · 03-08-2012, 02:27 PM

Cbu is up some type of water proof was rolled on to the cbu
The moen rough in value or where handle goes is out pass the cbu 1 1/2 inches
is this too much ? I realize that thin set and tile will take up some more space tile is 3/8 . Thanks George

**jadnashua** · 03-08-2012, 03:22 PM

Unless they removed it, there should be a 'plaster guard' on the valve that has some min/max lines on it. IF the finished wall will be between those two lines, the trim will fit. Many people don't like it coming out to the max, as you can see more of the shaft of the handle, but the manufacturer says it is okay because it will fit. Without seeing it, from your description, I think it's out too far. the way to tell is to temporarily attach the finished trim with a tile stuck up there and see if the trim can be tightened down properly, and how far it sticks out. There are extensions if it sits too far back, but the only way to fix it if it is too far out is to tear things up and move the valve back...not something you want to do after the tile is up!

**Geo422** · 03-10-2012, 05:05 AM

Tile is up I will have less then 1/4 inch from the handle to the wall trim . since this is the hall bath I am going replace the vent fan one we now have sounds like a jet taking off and not much air movement thinking of the panasonic ceiling 110 cfm .. Thanks george

**Geo422** · 04-28-2012, 07:40 PM

I have got the bathroom done with the archer tub toto toilet and now I have a question . I have got a panasonic vent fan model FV-11VQ5 110 CFM my question what is the best way to put this in? I am replacing a small vent fan. Got the hole cut in the ceiling to the size panasonic said it takes. If I go to the attic does the fan set on the wallboard ? Or on the finished ceiling (painted )Thanks george

**cacher_chick** · 04-28-2012, 09:28 PM

The answer will depend partially on the joist spacing and direction. The fan should come with a couple of different support braces. The instructions that come with the fan detail various mounting options.

The housing should be flush with the bottom of the joists. It is sometimes helpful to add additional lumber blocking to support and mount the fan unit. The unit is always mounted as if the ceiling has not yet been installed.

**Geo422** · 04-29-2012, 04:26 AM

So the 10 1/2 by 10 1/2 hole they tell u to cut in the ceiling iss not big enough to get the body through with the vent outlet and wiring box attached. I took the vent part off got the fan body through the hole . But in the attic I couldn't get the vent attached back to the body . So actually the hole needs to be bigger or am I missing something ? The joist , duct work all runs the correct way electric everthing. My problem is getting that vent body through that square hole . Like my brain froze up .George

**Terry** · 04-29-2012, 10:37 AM

The Panasonic is an easy installation.
The bracket with the wire connection goes in first, and it easily fits into the hole. At the last, you install the fan up into the hole and screw it to the awaiting bracket.
The flange of the fan box can be below the ceiling.

http://shop.panasonic.com/resources/...5_08_11VF2.pdf

If I go to the attic does the fan set on the wallboard ? Or on the finished ceiling (painted )Thanks george

When I install for an attic, I push the fan up from below, and the flange is below the drywall.