Delta shower valve repair

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Sbslider

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I will certainly ably grease liberally when I reassembly this valve.

Now I am wondering if I over did the grease. 3 weeks later, I have the shower cleaned, and the valve reassembled. But when I reinstall the new handle, it won't stay up, it just slides closed slowly. I have not tried this with water on yet, but I am not optimistic. The old handle was the plastic ball type, and with it on the valve does not close. But this ball type handle was screwed into the valve, the new valve won't accept that screw. The new handle is solid metal, and while nice looking, is just too heavy and the CG is out on a lever with makes the force to close the valve larger. I will note that it appears to me that it takes little force to bottom out the cam and lip seal onto the valve, and at that point the ball still moves fairly freely. No matter how much I tighten the final cap onto the valve the metal handle still drifts down on its own.

Now what?
 
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Sbslider

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Here's what. Clean and install the old parts. The old ball is nearly solid and if decent shape, so I polished it up with 400 grit sandpaper, cleaned the old ball handle, reinstalled the old parts holding the ball in, including the seal. I'm sure a new one would be better, but it is still sealing and there is plenty of rubber left to seal for some time. Plenty of silicone grease inside and the valve moves as smooth as silk. Also, the old parts go back in much nicer than the new ones did, hard to describe how so I won't bother. I'm a happy camper now, thanks again for all the advice.

BTW, The dremmel was definetly the way to get the old bonnet nut off. No amount of heat and/or liquid wrench would have done it, as there was tons of sediment that kept the liquid wrench from penetrating to the threads.
 

hj

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quote; No matter how much I tighten the final cap onto the valve the metal handle still drifts down on its own.

You do NOT tighten the cap to the valve to tighten the handle. You tighten the "adjustment ring" on/inside the cap to do that.

Added by Terry Love below

rp54870-01.jpg


With the new parts.
I didn't have much luck with heating the bonnet, but tapping it with pliers loosened things up. If you use too much muscle, you can bend the three copper tubes between the body and the valving portion.

rp54870-02.jpg


With the new parts in place.
 
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Sbslider

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You do NOT tighten the cap to the valve to tighten the handle. You tighten the "adjustment ring" on/inside the cap to do that.

I concur. The RP54879 does not include an adjustment ring, nor would using it help any. That assembly with the metal handle just does not work with my valve. The old ball style does the trick though. And yes, I used the adjustment ring of the old assembly (RP20111) to set the tension.
 
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