If they would simply use some plumbers grease on the threads at the factory the problem would go away........then it would be up to anyone who repaired the faucet in the future to apply grease when they service the valve.
All of the new faucets I install get taken apart and lubricated. Thats part of a professional installation IMO.
Delta is my brand of choice but I call it like I see it.
I will certainly ably grease liberally when I reassembly this valve.
Delta did address the nut problem.
On the new R10000 rough in valves, the nuts are teflon-impregnated brass. They don't stick.
Last edited by sbslider; 03-03-2012 at 04:07 PM.
Here's what. Clean and install the old parts. The old ball is nearly solid and if decent shape, so I polished it up with 400 grit sandpaper, cleaned the old ball handle, reinstalled the old parts holding the ball in, including the seal. I'm sure a new one would be better, but it is still sealing and there is plenty of rubber left to seal for some time. Plenty of silicone grease inside and the valve moves as smooth as silk. Also, the old parts go back in much nicer than the new ones did, hard to describe how so I won't bother. I'm a happy camper now, thanks again for all the advice.
BTW, The dremmel was definetly the way to get the old bonnet nut off. No amount of heat and/or liquid wrench would have done it, as there was tons of sediment that kept the liquid wrench from penetrating to the threads.
quote; No matter how much I tighten the final cap onto the valve the metal handle still drifts down on its own.
You do NOT tighten the cap to the valve to tighten the handle. You tighten the "adjustment ring" on/inside the cap to do that.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber