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Thread: Delta shower valve repair

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Runs with bison View Post
    It is much more fun to twist the whole thing off while trying to do a simple repair (been there)...I'm not a fan of these ugly Delta's that always seem to be siezed up when they are leaking somewhere. I've replaced half of them already.
    I've installed alot of Delta faucets,the older 600's and the newer styles. One thing that the clowns at Delta and other faucet manufacturers do not understand or refuse to address properly is sticking bonnet nuts. They re-designed the bonnet and put wrench flats on it.....thats good but its still a FAIL. They started coating the new valves bonnet nut with a teflon finish.....thats great but its still a FAIL.

    If they would simply use some plumbers grease on the threads at the factory the problem would go away........then it would be up to anyone who repaired the faucet in the future to apply grease when they service the valve.

    All of the new faucets I install get taken apart and lubricated. Thats part of a professional installation IMO.

    Delta is my brand of choice but I call it like I see it.

  2. #17
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hackney plumbing View Post
    I've installed alot of Delta faucets,the older 600's and the newer styles. One thing that the clowns at Delta and other faucet manufacturers do not understand or refuse to address properly is sticking bonnet nuts. They re-designed the bonnet and put wrench flats on it.....thats good but its still a FAIL. They started coating the new valves bonnet nut with a teflon finish.....thats great but its still a FAIL.

    If they would simply use some plumbers grease on the threads at the factory the problem would go away........then it would be up to anyone who repaired the faucet in the future to apply grease when they service the valve.

    All of the new faucets I install get taken apart and lubricated. Thats part of a professional installation IMO.

    Delta is my brand of choice but I call it like I see it.
    I agree Delta has always been my faucet of choice also. They kept with the same basic design for years on there entire line. Not like there composition. But I don't like what I'm starting to see from Delta. This new touch design they have will turn into a service mans dream. Can you imagine how small the check valves are that prevent a cross connection between the hot and cold. I see may services calls to replace them. Just my opinion.

    John

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member sbslider's Avatar
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    I will certainly ably grease liberally when I reassembly this valve.

  4. #19
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Delta did address the nut problem.

    On the new R10000 rough in valves, the nuts are teflon-impregnated brass. They don't stick.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    Delta did address the nut problem.

    On the new R10000 rough in valves, the nuts are teflon-impregnated brass. They don't stick.
    Did you notice in my post that I state the new ones are teflon coated? I didn't over look it and guess what.....THEY CAN STICK!!!! I've arleady found 4 or 5 that did!



    Last edited by Hackney plumbing; 02-13-2012 at 02:51 PM. Reason: add pic

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member sbslider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbslider View Post
    I will certainly ably grease liberally when I reassembly this valve.
    Now I am wondering if I over did the grease. 3 weeks later, I have the shower cleaned, and the valve reassembled. But when I reinstall the new handle, it won't stay up, it just slides closed slowly. I have not tried this with water on yet, but I am not optimistic. The old handle was the plastic ball type, and with it on the valve does not close. But this ball type handle was screwed into the valve, the new valve won't accept that screw. The new handle is solid metal, and while nice looking, is just too heavy and the CG is out on a lever with makes the force to close the valve larger. I will note that it appears to me that it takes little force to bottom out the cam and lip seal onto the valve, and at that point the ball still moves fairly freely. No matter how much I tighten the final cap onto the valve the metal handle still drifts down on its own.

    Now what?
    Last edited by sbslider; 03-03-2012 at 03:07 PM.

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member sbslider's Avatar
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    Here's what. Clean and install the old parts. The old ball is nearly solid and if decent shape, so I polished it up with 400 grit sandpaper, cleaned the old ball handle, reinstalled the old parts holding the ball in, including the seal. I'm sure a new one would be better, but it is still sealing and there is plenty of rubber left to seal for some time. Plenty of silicone grease inside and the valve moves as smooth as silk. Also, the old parts go back in much nicer than the new ones did, hard to describe how so I won't bother. I'm a happy camper now, thanks again for all the advice.

    BTW, The dremmel was definetly the way to get the old bonnet nut off. No amount of heat and/or liquid wrench would have done it, as there was tons of sediment that kept the liquid wrench from penetrating to the threads.

  8. #23
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; No matter how much I tighten the final cap onto the valve the metal handle still drifts down on its own.

    You do NOT tighten the cap to the valve to tighten the handle. You tighten the "adjustment ring" on/inside the cap to do that.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member sbslider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    You do NOT tighten the cap to the valve to tighten the handle. You tighten the "adjustment ring" on/inside the cap to do that.
    I concur. The RP54879 does not include an adjustment ring, nor would using it help any. That assembly with the metal handle just does not work with my valve. The old ball style does the trick though. And yes, I used the adjustment ring of the old assembly (RP20111) to set the tension.

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