Delta shower valve repair

[sbslider]

I am attempting to fix my leaking Delta shower valve. It is a single control type, see the attached picture. I started yesterday trying to disassemble it to replace the springs, seals, ball etc. I know that if I try to force it off that I will break three copper pipes behind the valve. I have been attempting to help my cause by applying my home grown liquid wrench (ATF and acetone 50/50) to the threads, and heating it a bit with a hair dryer and a plumbing torch. So far, 1 day in no luck. I am considering attempting to dremmel off the dome piece and/or the cylindrical piece that covers the pipes, but thought I would look for recommendations here first. I would prefer to not replace the valve, but I do have access behind the shower in the wall of a closet if necessary. One thing that prevents me from just diving in and cutting the metal is the availability of replacement parts for those pieces. I have not looked terribly hard, but have not found them yet. I failed to ask about them yesterday when I bought replacement parts for the internals at the plumbing store, but I did ask about the plate behind the valve and they did not have that.

Thanks, Matt

[johnjh2o1]

I am attempting to fix my leaking Delta shower valve. It is a single control type, see the attached picture. I started yesterday trying to disassemble it to replace the springs, seals, ball etc. I know that if I try to force it off that I will break three copper pipes behind the valve. I have been attempting to help my cause by applying my home grown liquid wrench (ATF and acetone 50/50) to the threads, and heating it a bit with a hair dryer and a plumbing torch. So far, 1 day in no luck. I am considering attempting to dremmel off the dome piece and/or the cylindrical piece that covers the pipes, but thought I would look for recommendations here first. I would prefer to not replace the valve, but I do have access behind the shower in the wall of a closet if necessary. One thing that prevents me from just diving in and cutting the metal is the availability of replacement parts for those pieces. I have not looked terribly hard, but have not found them yet. I failed to ask about them yesterday when I bought replacement parts for the internals at the plumbing store, but I did ask about the plate behind the valve and they did not have that.

Thanks, Matt

Your on the right track. Use your dermmel tool to split then nut then open up the split by twisting a screwdriver in the cut you made. The new replacement nut have a hex on them to make them easier to remove.

John

[Hackney plumbing]

First loosen the plastic ring with the notches in it. Heat the nut with a torch,slow and do not get it really hot...just warm it up good. It should be hot enough you cant touch it for more than a split second. Now take some channel locks and out toward the end of the bonnet....where you loosened the plastic ring,try to apply more twisting force that gripping force. If you squeeze too hard you will egg the bonnet and it will not turn. You cant see this happening. Watch the bonnet as you try to turn.....if you feel your channel locks move and not slip but the bonnet does not move you know to stop immediately and get your dremel out. Remember to turn rather than squeeze.

Be careful and not cut too deep with the dremel if you use it. As Johnjh201 said cut it part way through and use a screwdriver to twist and split the bonnet. Once you split it and open the split with a screwdriver it should unscrew.

All the parts are available.

[sbslider]

Many thanks Gents, now I have an excuse to get myself a dremel tool. I did already try loosening the plastic part inside, but I did not try twisting from there. I'll give that a try, thanks.

[Hackney plumbing]

There is actually a tool made to fit the bonnet,it prevents you from squeezing it.

[sbslider]

Any recommendations for where to get a replacement bonnet online? I'm not a huge fan of driving around town looking for a special part. I've already been to a few stores and not found it.

[jadnashua]

Someone said that it comes with a new cartridge...would need to verify that.

If you twist too much, you can damage the lines to the valve and unless you're quite skilled, that may require replacing the valve itself rather than just the cartridge. A hacksaw could start to split the bonnet - you don't want to damage the threads of the body, though.

[Hackney plumbing]

Someone said that it comes with a new cartridge...would need to verify that.

If you twist too much, you can damage the lines to the valve and unless you're quite skilled, that may require replacing the valve itself rather than just the cartridge. A hacksaw could start to split the bonnet - you don't want to damage the threads of the body, though.

That faucet doesn't take a cartridge. It takes two seats,two springs,ball,cam packing,bonnet with adjustment ring.

Take your pick!!!! Good luck and let us know how it goes. I suggest getting a total rebuilt kit. You have a Delta 600

http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CE4Q8wIwAg#

[sbslider]

Thanks Hackney!! I need to buy some other stuff from Amazon anyway, I will add that to the order. I will definetly let you know how it goes, likely will do it next weekend.

[sbslider]

turns out I don't have a delta 600, mine has a round handle and the bonnet nut screws on at the widest part, not the narrowest as shown in the part posted above. I'll figure this out yet.

[johnjh2o1]

That is the new replacement nut for the faucet you have. It will also fit there kitchen faucet.

John

[sbslider]

Copy, I guess they don't sell the part I have now.

[Hackney plumbing]

turns out I don't have a delta 600, mine has a round handle and the bonnet nut screws on at the widest part, not the narrowest as shown in the part posted above. I'll figure this out yet.

You have a Delta 600. Yours is the acrylic(plastic) handle. A conversion ball is available to convert it to a metal handle. You need a complete trim and rebuild kit for a Delta 600.

[Hackney plumbing]

turns out I don't have a delta 600, mine has a round handle and the bonnet nut screws on at the widest part, not the narrowest as shown in the part posted above. I'll figure this out yet.

Copy, I guess they don't sell the part I have now.

Its been re-designed. It fits.

[sbslider]

Yeah, after looking around more I concluded I just need to get the whole refurb kit. Thanks for following up, I appreciate it.