We install them all the time with Silicone.
Silicone under the flange, drop into the shower pan, rubber washer under the pan, then the friction washer, thread on the nut and tighten.
I have an acrylic shower pan that I'm using with an Oatey "no caulk" shower drain. I installed it as advised by the instructions, but it's leaking between the top flange and the shower base. Surprisingly, the "no caulk" rubber gasket is holding up just fine. In other words, the silicone joint is leaking.
It would appear the original poster in this thread had the same problem:
Does anyone have any experience with these drains? I am on a concrete slab, so there is no access underneath, and so it would seem I need to tear out the shower pan, remove the drain, and try again. I am hesitant to use silicone sealant the second time around, though.
This pictures shows how the inner part of the drain is holding water, while the outside flange area is not. Note that I did apply silicone underneath the flange, and wiped away any and all excess (you can see it slightly).
I will not use a plastic drain,only the brass ones. Just my choice.
Replacement drains are sold that install from the top.
Does the pan flex when you stand in it? Did the instructions suggest or require a mortar base for the pan to be set into?
Last edited by Terry; 02-12-2012 at 10:31 AM.
I used the Oatey plastic drain, and yes, I did put lots of mortar underneath. The base is very solid. Looking at it more closely, I think the problem is that I was not able to tighten the large nut enough. Once it got to a certain point, the whole body began to spin (with the silicone already in place), and I think swirling the silicone, combined with not being tight enough is the reason for the leaking.
I did a few searches to see that I'm not alone in this problem. Some folks have advised drilling a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the drain so that you can stick a 1/4" rod to keep it from spinning, others have said they use a strap wrench on the threaded portion while they tighten the nut.
Well, I think I'm tired of fooling around with it. I'm going to have to pull out the whole pan now, remove the mortar, install a new Davke 2000 drain, throw in new mortar, and set the pan level again.
I assumed that you were talking about the Davke 4000? The one that gets epoxied to the shower base? The one that shrinks your drain to a non-code-compliant 1.5 inches? Is that the drain you're referring to? If not, feel free to point me somewhere else.
No I comply with codes.
Last edited by Terry; 02-12-2012 at 11:34 AM.
Wow. Have you used either of those? Which one do you prefer? You just saved me a ton of work (although cutting out the old drain will still take a little time!).
The second drain is the wingtite drain. It's plastic and I have not used one. I have used a top install drain but its been years ago and it was brass.
If you decide to use the wingtite,which I would before I ripped my shower out.....I would use this to install it with. Its the best stuff on the market. Dont plan on getting it apart if you use it. Be sure to follow the directions about the cure times.....I think some of it can take up to a week to cure. I found a basket strainer for a K-sink once that was installed with that 3m marine grade silicone adhesive and I removed the lock nut on the bottom of the sink and I couldn't beat the basket out with a hammer. The sink was being replaced so I kept trying to break that bond........the sink ended up convexing!!!!! The bond would not break. I asked the guy what he used and he went and got the tube. I was a believer from then on. The guy worked at a boat store.
Welp, just ordered the Wingtite. You should get a commission! Thanks for helping me not rip out my shower pan. I like that if it ever leaks in the future, it will come out and can be resealed. I will try it with that sealant, since my searching reveals people seem happy with it. It seems like it comes in black, though, and I would hate for it to stain when cleaning up.
In the instructions that Terry posted pay really close attention to how tight to get the wingnuts. 20 in pounds is not very tight. With the 3m adhesive I posted all they are going to be needed for is for the adhesive to arrive at full cure.
Here is a video of the wingnut drain installation.
I hope your project turns out well,goodluck to you.
Last edited by Terry; 02-12-2012 at 02:00 PM.