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Thread: Still seeing a bit of resin...

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    DIY Member dmendiol's Avatar
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    Default Still seeing a bit of resin...

    I am a still seeing a little bit of resin coming from the kitchen faucet. I can only think that I did not tighten the screws of the bottom basket enough. How tight should they be? I remember there was a black ball inside and I only tightened the screws so there could be some play on the ball. If I tightened the screws to the point of smashing the rubber gaskets, there would be no play. Should the ball have play?
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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Is that from a turbulator? If so, get rid of it, put in a standard bottom screen and a gravel bed. I am sure a few guys will argue, but... the turbulator is not worth it. If you are using your softener to remove iron "sigh..." it may help a bit but redardless, get a 40922 bottom screen, 10-15 pounds of 1/8" gravel, some 3/4" pvc pipe, and you will be much better off.

    If you got resin all through your house, the resin can be a problem for a long time. It will hide in your plumbing for a while, particularly in the bottom of your water heater. Hook up a hose to the bottom of your water heater and open and close the valve repeatedly and check the water for any resin. Good luck!

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    DIY Member dmendiol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Is that from a turbulator? If so, get rid of it, put in a standard bottom screen and a gravel bed. I am sure a few guys will argue, but... the turbulator is not worth it. If you are using your softener to remove iron "sigh..." it may help a bit but redardless, get a 40922 bottom screen, 10-15 pounds of 1/8" gravel, some 3/4" pvc pipe, and you will be much better off.

    If you got resin all through your house, the resin can be a problem for a long time. It will hide in your plumbing for a while, particularly in the bottom of your water heater. Hook up a hose to the bottom of your water heater and open and close the valve repeatedly and check the water for any resin. Good luck!
    Yes, it is from a turbulator. Which is the best and easiest way to remove the resin from the tank, so I can rebed with gravel? Unfortunately, I have two water heaters--both are located in the attic. I am just trying to keep this unit for another year or so before I buy the new one.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Again, I am waiting to here people argue this but... If yor resin is in good shape, simply remove the turbulator, install a standard manifold that is the same length as the turbultor. Be sure the manifold is level with the tank assuming it is a fleck or clack valve. Use a garden hose to force water through the mainfold if you have trouble getting it through the resin. Once it is installed, you can add the gravel to the top of the resin. As soon as you backwash the system, the medias will reclassify themselve instantly. (no arguments here please, I have done this in training seminars for years with clear vessels to prove the point. All of the resin is displaced within seconds by the gravel) Add approximately 10-15 pounds of gravel on top of the resin. You will not have resin coming through the screen ever again and you will slightly increase the systems efficiency by having better bottom distribution.

    Do not buy a cheap bottom screen, only a D-190, 40922, or the heavy Clack bottom screens. Their are many Chinese bottom screens that are knockoffs of the US made units that look simlar but cost 25 cents, be sure to use only the USA made or Italy made bottom screens.

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    DIY Member dmendiol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Again, I am waiting to here people argue this but... If yor resin is in good shape, simply remove the turbulator, install a standard manifold that is the same length as the turbultor. Be sure the manifold is level with the tank assuming it is a fleck or clack valve. Use a garden hose to force water through the mainfold if you have trouble getting it through the resin. Once it is installed, you can add the gravel to the top of the resin. As soon as you backwash the system, the medias will reclassify themselve instantly. (no arguments here please, I have done this in training seminars for years with clear vessels to prove the point. All of the resin is displaced within seconds by the gravel) Add approximately 10-15 pounds of gravel on top of the resin. You will not have resin coming through the screen ever again and you will slightly increase the systems efficiency by having better bottom distribution.

    Do not buy a cheap bottom screen, only a D-190, 40922, or the heavy Clack bottom screens. Their are many Chinese bottom screens that are knockoffs of the US made units that look simlar but cost 25 cents, be sure to use only the USA made or Italy made bottom screens.
    Prior to adding the gravel, do I remove some resin since it is about 2/3 full? Thanks.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    No need to remove the resin. Simply install a new manifold, you can not use gravel with the turbulator. Then cap the manifold, and add 10 pounds of gravel on top of the resin. As soon as you put the system into backwash, the gravel will fall below the resin almost instantly. The two different medias will separate perfectly.

    Good luck!

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