Installing LASCO shower stall with Oatey No-Calk drain

[mudcat]

I have a Lasco one piece fiberglass shower stall.....its 32 or 36 inch..regular front walk in type. I need to know how to set this thing on a concrete slab type house. There was an old shower where I want to put it....but it was built crappy and it rotted some wood in back now I have to repair before the fiberglass unit goes in. I was planning using the old drain if I can chisel this old concrete up enough to splice in some new pvc for a stub for the Lasco unit. But what I need to know how do I drop this unit on the drain pipe stub or the fitting I need to do this without any leaks down the road. This has to be dropped down on the pipe drain right? Because there is no way to get under a concrete slap to do any pipe work underneath. Need some instruction...thanks. any photos also would be appeciated as this shower stall came with the worst instuctions I ever saw....does not even give a single instruction on concrete slabs.

[Gary Swart]

You set the stall on heaps of mortar so the mortar will squish out when the stall is set down. The mortar will contact the under side of the stall in multiple places and prevent the floor from sagging under weight. It does not have to be a solid covering. The drain positioning is critical. There are fairly easy ways to make the connection once the drain matches the hole in the stall floor. A good plumbing shop can provide you with be best drain to use. The drain is attached to the trap after setting the stall in place. The drain needs to be 2" and be trapped and vented. It may be necessary to break out some concrete. Fortunately, you do not have to do a fancy job of concrete finishing after the plumbing is installed. You are correct, you can not access the drain after installation. You may want to consider a professional to do the drain plumbing and stall installation. You pretty much get just one shot at it, because it will be cast in concrete.

[mudcat]

You set the stall on heaps of mortar so the mortar will squish out when the stall is set down. The mortar will contact the under side of the stall in multiple places and prevent the floor from sagging under weight. It does not have to be a solid covering. The drain positioning is critical. There are fairly easy ways to make the connection once the drain matches the hole in the stall floor. A good plumbing shop can provide you with be best drain to use. The drain is attached to the trap after setting the stall in place. The drain needs to be 2" and be trapped and vented. It may be necessary to break out some concrete. Fortunately, you do not have to do a fancy job of concrete finishing after the plumbing is installed. You are correct, you can not access the drain after installation. You may want to consider a professional to do the drain plumbing and stall installation. You pretty much get just one shot at it, because it will be cast in concrete.

I do not want a professional doing it and charging me $2000..it is why I am on this forum..to get help from professionals here who done this before. Also you stated "The drain is attached to the trap after setting the stall in place".....How is a person going under a concrete slab to make a connection to the trap once unit installed on floor?

[johnfrwhipple]

I have a Lasco one piece fiberglass shower stall.....its 32 or 36 inch..regular front walk in type. I need to know how to set this thing on a concrete slab type house. There was an old shower where I want to put it....but it was built crappy and it rotted some wood in back now I have to repair before the fiberglass unit goes in. I was planning using the old drain if I can chisel this old concrete up enough to splice in some new pvc for a stub for the Lasco unit. But what I need to know how do I drop this unit on the drain pipe stub or the fitting I need to do this without any leaks down the road. This has to be dropped down on the pipe drain right? Because there is no way to get under a concrete slap to do any pipe work underneath. Need some instruction...thanks. any photos also would be appeciated as this shower stall came with the worst instuctions I ever saw....does not even give a single instruction on concrete slabs.

If you can share a few pictures that would be great.

What type of drain is going to be used? Can it be tightened from above?

When access from below is not available you need to take extra care with this connection. I do not like dropping tubs and such onto an existing plumbing line with out giving the fitting a 1/3 turn. With a shower base this is not possible.

Upload pictures of the drain and the pan.

You might be able to attach the drain top after the base goes in.

[jadnashua]

The type of drain can make a lot of difference. As to the drain pipe into the trap, depending on how the drain pipe attaches to the pan, you may have one chance to get it right. You'd have to have everything perfectly lined up, put the cement on the pipe and the fitting to the trap, then set everything down in one operation. This can be quite daunting for a DIY'er doing it for the first time. There is NO second chance to get it right. A plumber shouldn't charge anywhere near $2000 to make the final connection for you...maybe the whole thing - installing the supply pipe and valve, running new drain, trap, and vent, but not just making that one connection.

[Terry]

You find the center of the drain and measure it out on the concrete.
Then you install the new p-trap to that spot.
Push the shower stall into place, and measure the vertical that will be needed.
Pull out the shower and glue in the vertical pipe section.
You are using a drain that uses a rubber seal that snugs down from the top.
Set the stall in place over the pipe, and then drop the rubber seal in and down over the pipe, tightening the threaded ring down to snug it up.

[Gary Swart]

I don't where you came up the $2000, but for just setting the stall and drain it shouldn't even come close. That said, you can set this without a pro, but for a stall as large as you are putting in, you definitely will want another set of hands. I did a 32x32 alone, and a bit of help would have be very useful. I used the Oatey No Caulk drain as Terry described. Getting the P trap dead center with the stall drain opening is critical, so measure well.

[Hackney plumbing]

I have a Lasco one piece fiberglass shower stall.....its 32 or 36 inch..regular front walk in type. I need to know how to set this thing on a concrete slab type house. There was an old shower where I want to put it....but it was built crappy and it rotted some wood in back now I have to repair before the fiberglass unit goes in. I was planning using the old drain if I can chisel this old concrete up enough to splice in some new pvc for a stub for the Lasco unit. But what I need to know how do I drop this unit on the drain pipe stub or the fitting I need to do this without any leaks down the road. This has to be dropped down on the pipe drain right? Because there is no way to get under a concrete slap to do any pipe work underneath. Need some instruction...thanks. any photos also would be appeciated as this shower stall came with the worst instuctions I ever saw....does not even give a single instruction on concrete slabs.

I can help you but I'd like to ask you some questions.

The existing PVC pipe is what size? Hopefully you say 2".

The exisiting stub up of pipe is in the proper location?

The oatey no caulk drain is brass....with a rubber bushing that has ridges in it and is held down by a brass ring that has notches cut in it? It has a flat piece of metal that you use to tighten the brass ring?

Lets start with that and I'll walk you through it.

[mudcat]

I can help you but I'd like to ask you some questions.

The existing PVC pipe is what size? Hopefully you say 2".

The exisiting stub up of pipe is in the proper location?

The oatey no caulk drain is brass....with a rubber bushing that has ridges in it and is held down by a brass ring that has notches cut in it? It has a flat piece of metal that you use to tighten the brass ring?

Lets start with that and I'll walk you through it.

The drain pipe can be anything which you recommend me to put..as I am going to cut a hole in the slab to splice in a new pvc connection with a Fernco and new trap to the existing pip under the slab which is cast iron . I can try to take some photos of the spot I will put it in and of the shower stall also. Can you tell me a place online where to find these special fittings for the no caulk shower drain..can you get them at Lowes?