Need help on new vanity install, metal to PVC help needed

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Hammerlane

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How hard would it be to just remove the pipe?

I think those are my only options at this point. Fernco or new pipe. .

Cut away some of the drywall around the stub out to expose what is behind there. Hopefully a Tee fitting. Could be a 90 elbow. Either way that stub out will be threaded into whatever fitting is behind that drywall. Then proceed as I suggested in post #14. I'll put the photo here again.

Post photos when you cut drywall.
 

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Hammerlane

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How difficult is removing that stub out pipe? I guess that's my main question.

I can't tell you how many foot-lbs of torque you'll need but
With a proper size pipe wrench to get enough torque shouldn't be hard at all.
 

Kreemoweet

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I would strongly advise to stop messing with that old drain piping and just use a rubber pipe connector. When galv steel drain pipes get
old and rusty, they are sometimes not removable at all, and the attempt could well lead to damaging the rest of the pipes in the wall.
 

Spunger1

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I would strongly advise to stop messing with that old drain piping and just use a rubber pipe connector. When galv steel drain pipes get
old and rusty, they are sometimes not removable at all, and the attempt could well lead to damaging the rest of the pipes in the wall.

Are those rubber/metal fernco adapters considered a permenet fix or just to buy time?
 

Hackney plumbing

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Fernco it or I would advise calling a professional. It will last a long time and will likely outlast the pipe your connecting to. There easy enough to replace if you need to and there only 4 or 5 bucks retail.
 

Jadnashua

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First thing I'd try is to use a wire brush on say a drill and try to clean up the threads...they have a lot of gunk on them. The whole stub would need t obe cleaned off if you go with a banded coupling (this is a neoprene rubber sleeve with a metal jacket on it and clamps to hold it to the pipe and seal - don't use the all rubber one with clamps). Then, see if the adapter will thread on. If it won't, you have enough stub sticking out to cut off the threads and use a banded coupling to a stub of pvc that you would then glue the trap adapter onto. If the start of the threads is munged up, you might take a triangle file and clean it up some that way (if you had a die, you could run that down it, but most people won't have one of those lying around!). You'd likely need a 24" or larger pipe wrench to undo that stub from the coupling in the wall, and then, if it isn't anchored well, maybe stress nearby ones, or what's there might drop a little, making it really tough to install the new piece since it would no longer line up.
 

Spunger1

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First thing I'd try is to use a wire brush on say a drill and try to clean up the threads...they have a lot of gunk on them. The whole stub would need t obe cleaned off if you go with a banded coupling (this is a neoprene rubber sleeve with a metal jacket on it and clamps to hold it to the pipe and seal - don't use the all rubber one with clamps). Then, see if the adapter will thread on. If it won't, you have enough stub sticking out to cut off the threads and use a banded coupling to a stub of pvc that you would then glue the trap adapter onto. If the start of the threads is munged up, you might take a triangle file and clean it up some that way (if you had a die, you could run that down it, but most people won't have one of those lying around!). You'd likely need a 24" or larger pipe wrench to undo that stub from the coupling in the wall, and then, if it isn't anchored well, maybe stress nearby ones, or what's there might drop a little, making it really tough to install the new piece since it would no longer line up.

Thanks for the insight!

The threads where the adapter I tried screwing on are gone in parts so I can't even get it close to threading on. That's when I gave up last night. I could barely get my sawzall under the vanity to cut the brass pipe off that was lodged inside the pipe.

I was thinking of going the coupler adaper except the pipe is so bad inside I dunno how long the fix would last. I could remove the vanity if I had to. Not high on my list but it was just put in so shouldnt be hard to pop out. I'll cut the drywall out tonight and see what I'm up against.
 

Hackney plumbing

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Just keep in mind there may not be an end. You might be getting ready for an extensive pipe job. To top it off....at the end of the job you might be making the final connection with a rubber boot or bushing.....chances are very great that you will,if you dont find good threads or threads that can be chased.

Goodluck to you sir.
 

Cacher_Chick

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Before I tore into anything more, I would grind the end of the pipe off, just 2-3 threads, and then clean it up and see if the trap adapter will thread on. If you can get the end of the pipe clean and flat, it's not a loss yet.

The pipe threads are tapered, so if you have to remove too many threads from the pipe, the adapter will never thread on.

Once you put the big pipe wrench on that stub-out, there is no going back.
 

Spunger1

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So what I'm going to do tonight is see what pieces of the threads look like I can clean up. If it starts to crumble or seems like its not going in the right direction I'll cut open a piece of drywall back there and see what I'm looking at. I think that's sorta the next step in all of this.

Like always I'll post picks to see what I'm up against. I think my wife has some of the wall exposed from the remodel I'll have to look at. I'll just have to see.

Once again though thanks for the insight and knowledge for helping on this. With our bathroom it's just been one thing after another with things gone wrong so I just keep adding to it all.
 

Spunger1

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So update.

I tied removing the pipe. I did manage to get it off but not without a lot of cursing and bigger wrenches. It was so thin it in spots had rusted through. I ended up cleaning all the threads up and I think I salvaged everything. Took lots of heat too from a mapp gas torch.

I still need to tread on the PVC adapter and see how it all goes.
 

Spunger1

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So update.

I tied removing the pipe. I did manage to get it off but not without a lot of cursing and bigger wrenches. It was so thin it in spots had rusted through. I ended up cleaning all the threads up and I think I salvaged everything. Took lots of heat too from a mapp gas torch.

I still need to tread on the PVC adapter and see how it all goes.
 

Hammerlane

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I tied removing the pipe. I did manage to get it off but not without a lot of cursing and bigger wrenches. It was so thin it in spots had rusted through. I ended up cleaning all the threads up and I think I salvaged everything. Took lots of heat too from a mapp gas torch.
I still need to tread on the PVC adapter and see how it all goes.

SO you removed the stub out from the wall? Was it screwed into a Tee-fitting or an elbow? Throw a photo up.
 

Hammerlane

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I tied removing the pipe. I did manage to get it off but not without a lot of cursing and bigger wrenches. It was so thin it in spots had rusted through. I ended up cleaning all the threads up and I think I salvaged everything. Took lots of heat too from a mapp gas torch.
I still need to tread on the PVC adapter and see how it all goes.

SO you removed the stub out from the wall? Was it screwed into a Tee-fitting or an elbow? Throw a photo up.
 

Spunger1

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I have to be at a computer to upload them so tonight I'll do that.

It was screwed into a T fitting that tied into another drain. I had to use a 24" pipe wrench and then picks and wire brushes to clean the threads all up. I got the correct threaded fitting to go into that T. I just now have to glue it all and put it back together.

I have a question though. I can almost thread the adapter entirely into the T and get it pretty tight. Inside it does cover all the threads. Does that adapter need to be flush with the T or 1-2 threads exposed ok as long as its tight in there?
 

Jadnashua

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Once you add the teflon tape, you likely won't be able to bottom it. It needs to wedge on there...if it actually bottoms, you may not have a good seal. You may need an extra wrap or two (or three) of teflon to get it tight without bottoming. The threads are both tapered and slightly interference, so as you tighten, they wedge themselves tight. With full threads, you'd likely have at least some visible. With them partly rusted and therefore thinner, it needs to go on further to tighten up, so a bit more tape can compensate for it. Too much, and it'll leak, or you won't be able to screw it in in the first place.
 

Hackney plumbing

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I have to be at a computer to upload them so tonight I'll do that.

It was screwed into a T fitting that tied into another drain. I had to use a 24" pipe wrench and then picks and wire brushes to clean the threads all up. I got the correct threaded fitting to go into that T. I just now have to glue it all and put it back together.

I have a question though. I can almost thread the adapter entirely into the T and get it pretty tight. Inside it does cover all the threads. Does that adapter need to be flush with the T or 1-2 threads exposed ok as long as its tight in there?

I use rectorseal #5 pipe dope on plastic to to metal threads. No teflon. Just the way I do it. Are you going to install a solvent welded(glued) p-trap or are you going to use a slip joint? I suggest a slip joint trap. PVC solvent welded traps are availble with a union so it can be taken apart.

Good job on getting the nipple out. I've found that applying a little heat to the fitting will expand it enough that you can almost unscrew it with your hands. Somtimes...LOL
 

Spunger1

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I plan on using slip joints for everything. The only thing I plan on gluing is the pipes to the threaded and press fit pieces to create the wall stub out. Otherwise it's all slip joints.

I did buy some goop. It said it was safe for plastics and was at Home Depot so I think it should be sufficient. I can get it tight and there's still 3 or so threads showing on the PVC piece threading into the wall. If I crank down with my hands I can push it another 3/4 thread around and then it is tight. I can hand tighten it almost the the point where I need a tool to remove it. I can get pliers on it and give it a good turn once that point comes and it's all sealed up with tape or the goop and call it good.

Thank you guys though for helping me work through this. This is my first ever plumbing problem outside of changing toilet parts or hoses to the sink which I think anyone should be able to do. I did this because I am cheap first and foremost but that it's all a learning experience. I know form now on as long as its put back together normal, it will last my lifetime.

Here's some pictures of my mess. It may look like there are more threads but in fact they stop at the last one. I tried and tried to clean more of that and no luck. I made 100% sure the threads ended there. The rest is just junk and crap in the pipe but looks ok I hope.
 

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