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Thread: Help Configuring water softener

  1. #16
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The only way to "thump" the tank is with the jacket off. Field service technicians who do commercial softening repair usually do about 6-8 repairs a day. The first thing we do when we walk up to a system is kick the brine tank and hit the tank. Commercial systems never have brine tanks, when they do, the health inspectors go nuts because of the potential for little critters to hide. Residentially the tank jackets are there for mostly aesthetic reasons. Regionally jackets can be used for more than just decoration, but here in California, they look real neat. We even manufacture an aluminim diamond plate jacket.

    Cold water is denser than warm water and lifts the bed much more than warm water. 2-3 sizes down is typical for Clack up-flow systems, but... if your water temperature varies significantly seasonally, or you pressure varies a lot, upflow can be a little more difficult.

    Adjusting the brine draw is done with the injector only. You could easily replace yours for less than $15, and it is very easy to do. The Clack valve has a threaded cap on top of the valve, the injector is underneath. . The injector can easily be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers.

    Honestly, even if the resin bed moves during regeneration, the system will likely be fine, it just lessens the potential for a perfect regeneration.

    The difference between a perfectly regenerated resin bed and a "oh so close" regeneration will only be a part per million or two for quality, and a couple percent for capacity. The reserve capacities, variances in incoming hardness, etc will all outweigh the difference.

    Hope that made sense. I have been installing my new system all day today. I will post pictures of it in my Prototype thread.

  2. #17
    DIY Member teve's Avatar
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    My main concern is that the installer did not overlook something significant that might be a problem sooner than later. Everything seems to be working fine. It seems if the resin does expand some and move around during up-flow brine rinse, it is not a major issue. I hope it isn't any worse, or much worse, than down-flow. My softener programming is fairly conservative so it shouldn't matter.

  3. #18
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Theres thge main issue. Downflow brining, we program it fairly exact. We may add a couple of grains hardness to the programming for a buffer, but for the mostpart, we do not vary. UpFlow brining is supposed to produce better quality water, and be more efficient, and on paper it is, but in the real world, we always program a little more conservative than downflow due to the potential problems thereby negating the potential eficiency gains.

    Now for the real important information, programmed conservatively like yours, you may use an extra bag of salt a year. $4.50, I dont think that is going to break the bank. As long as it maintains soft water, and you are attempting to maintain efficiency and your system is sized correctly, it will be great for a lot of years.

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