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Thread: Can I run NM in space behind kitchen cabinets & plaster or do I need to use BX?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member Belmondo's Avatar
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    Default Can I run NM in space behind kitchen cabinets & plaster or do I need to use BX?

    Hi all. I'm renovating my kitchen. There were very few electrical outlets in this old place, and I'm adding them for the fridge and stove in addition to installing a micro/hood and counter outlets, all with appropriate separate circuits and GFCI.

    The issue is that the wall behind the counter and appliances is lathe and plaster on 3/4 furring over brick. What I'm planning on doing is spacing the cabinets 1-1/2" out from the wall with a 2x4 and running the water and gas lines in that space. But the electrical needs to be buried in the wall, at least where it exits from behind the cabinet and runs to the appliance outlets and up through the wall to the hood. So the question is: Does this cable need to be BX? It's relatively vulnerable both in the space behind the cabinet rear wall and in a 3/4 space behind plaster.

    I'd like to use NM as it's easier to work with in tight spaces and cheaper, but don't want to do something unsafe, as I understand the major concern in these circumstances is someday someone accidentally piercing the cable with a a nail or screw installing something. Any advice?

  2. #2
    Electrical Contractor/Instructor jwelectric's Avatar
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    Without being able to see what you are talking about I would be afraid to give an answer.

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member Homeownerinburb's Avatar
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    Consider using MC. You are not really talking about all that much wire, compared to the whole renovation the difference is got to be a fraction of a percent.

    Be sure you understand how to work with it. There are anti short bushings, and you will only use metal boxes. There are connectors for the boxes that are pretty specific, and some are better to work with than others.

    And there is a groovy tool to cut the sheathing, that is a worthwhile investment even if you are only remodeling one kitchen. It really does the trick clean as can be.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member Belmondo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homeownerinburb View Post
    Consider using MC. You are not really talking about all that much wire, compared to the whole renovation the difference is got to be a fraction of a percent.

    Be sure you understand how to work with it. There are anti short bushings, and you will only use metal boxes. There are connectors for the boxes that are pretty specific, and some are better to work with than others.

    And there is a groovy tool to cut the sheathing, that is a worthwhile investment even if you are only remodeling one kitchen. It really does the trick clean as can be.
    Thanks. Of course you're right about the cost, it's more the wrestling with the stuff in tight spaces and fishing it up through a 3/4" gap that makes me prefer the NM, and I understand it needs to be separate #12 circuits for the fridge & hood. Stiff stuff. And I've installed it a fair bit over the years, much more than NM, I even have the rotary cutter you mention.

  5. #5
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    You might find it easier to run wiring in the upper back side of the cabinets and then you would have very short distances to fish to the appliance circuits.

    edit: re-reading, maybe that was your plan in the first place..
    Last edited by cacher_chick; 01-26-2012 at 07:37 PM.

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member Homeownerinburb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belmondo View Post
    Thanks. Of course you're right about the cost, it's more the wrestling with the stuff in tight spaces and fishing it up through a 3/4" gap that makes me prefer the NM, and I understand it needs to be separate #12 circuits for the fridge & hood. Stiff stuff. And I've installed it a fair bit over the years, much more than NM, I even have the rotary cutter you mention.
    Oh, cool. Did not mean to presume anything.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member kreemoweet's Avatar
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    You should seriously consider the various types of surface-mounted conduit available. You really don't have a wall cavity
    to speak of, kind of a nightmare trying to fish NM or flex conduit thru that. Surface-mount can be painted to match
    the wall finish so it's not very obtrusive.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member Belmondo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kreemoweet View Post
    You should seriously consider the various types of surface-mounted conduit available. You really don't have a wall cavity
    to speak of, kind of a nightmare trying to fish NM or flex conduit thru that. Surface-mount can be painted to match
    the wall finish so it's not very obtrusive.
    Actually, neighbors in the building have told me they've had it done. One said the electrician chipped away a shallow hole in the brick to seat the box deep enough! I've lived in a place with surface mounted wiring (like I said I've lived in a LOT of old places) and it's better than nothing, but not ideal.

  9. #9
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; Surface-mount can be painted to match the wall finish so it's not very obtrusive.

    "not very intrusive" in a newly remodeled kitchen?
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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