Rewiring a stacked washer/Dryer

[brunetmj1]

Hi everyone,
I have a stacked washer dryer that currently requires a 240V outlet (or a 30 amp circuit I can't remember which ?)
I want to move this unit to another location and I want to use the washer only,which means 120 volts.
Can these stacked units be rewired to use just 120volts (and washer only)?

In case anyone wonders why it's because I am remodeling and want to move the washer/dryer to another location. In this new location I have to seperate the washer and dryer due to the fact that drain pipes and water pipes can only be in one location and a vent to the outside will require a different location ( they are close to each other but not side by side). So I want to continue to use the stacked unit as a washer only and then buy another dryer for the other location)

Thanks in advance

[jwelectric]

Maybe and maybe not. It depends on the unit

[brunetmj1]

Would you have any suggestions as to how to find out?
It's a Kenmore Laundry Center 240 volt. I suppose I could write Kenmore?

[cacher_chick]

Anyone with good electrical knowledge, skills, and experience could make it work.

On the other hand, there are people who could effectively re-route the plumbing or the dryer vent so you wouldn't need to change the appliance.

[jadnashua]

Sears' website is pretty good about being able to retrieve the manuals...that would be the first place I'd check.

[Chad Schloss]

there is usually a schematic on the appliance. when i had a stackable unit (that did not separate) the schematic was under a panel that separated the washer and dryer near where the dryer 4" duct hooked up.

[DonL]

You should be able to find the model number, in one of the doors.

Then look and see the electrical diagram.

But I see it as a can do. But Only if you know what you are doing.

[jimbo]

As mentioned, the actual wiring diagram will be under the panel between the top and bottom units.

Most likely everything in the washer is a 120 volt load, and probably it starts with a single wire, so you could separate it. Be very careful regarding the neutral and chassis ground. If the original cord was 3 wire, then the neutral bus is connected physically to chassis ground, where the power cord is wired in. You must fix this, and have a separate neutral ( white ) and chassis ground ( green wire in a 120 power cord ).

[hj]

If this is the single unit washer dryer, (not a "stacked system which is typically a dryer unit racked over the washer), then you need the wiring diagram to see what has to be done. But typically, one leg of the 224/240 will supply the 120 components and the other one completes the heating circuit. If so, and you can identify which is whick, supplying 120 to the proper side will accomplish your task. You might also disconnect the wires to the element to avoid accidental activation.

[DonL]

It may be safer, just to go to the laundromat until you get your work done, or until you can hook it up correctly, including drain.

Then you wont have do UN-DO everything.


Be careful playing with electricity.

[Homeownerinburb]

Be careful playing with electricity.

Man, ain't that the truth!

[ballvalve]

You can fabricate a steel offset for the vent that takes little room.

You can sell the unit and buy a full size washer for $359 new.

Unless you are a mad scientist, and a good one, I would never fiddle with the internal wiring on those units.

You could hook it up to 120 volts, and likely you will get a dryer that works on half heat. No dangers in trying that, might have to switch hots side to side to see if it works.

[brunetmj1]

Thanks everyone for your responces. They were very helpful

[ballvalve]

As I was recently reminded, Ohms law says your dryer would get 1/4 heat on that scheme, should it work.

[brunetmj1]

Yes thanks,
What I am trying to avoid is buying both a new washer and dryer when I remodel. I want to use the existing kenmore stack washer/dryer as just a washer and buy a new dryer that can be vented to the outside. I am confident I can do this suggested wiring, so thanks again