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Thread: roman tub remodel

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member DIYDan1's Avatar
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    Default roman tub remodel

    I'm filling in a sunken roman tub and have a couple of question about the best practice for the slab. I'll use sand for the bottom fill up to where I'll start the concrete slab which will be around 4" thick with reinforced with rebar anchored into the walls, then covered with a mud deck, covered by either kerdi or noble's membrane on the floor with probably hydro ban for the walls.

    1) What should I place between the bottom sand and concrete slab? gravel?? I'm assuming I should worry about moisture moving in to out of the slab.

    2) The shower will be rectangle with noble freestyle drain running longways in the center of the rectangle. Is it OK to just use the mud deck to create the slope from he drain to the walls? I figure it will be 1 1/4" at the drain rising higher to meet the wall and maintain proper slope. If so, would it suffice to use visqueen between the concrete and mud deck for moisture control?

    Thanks
    Dan
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    Dan

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    DIY Junior Member DIYDan1's Avatar
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    In case it was not clear the moisture control/movement I'm referring to is for the curing of the cement products.

    Thanks Dan

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) removed by John Whipple
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    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    To maintain a warranty, you don't really want to mix construction methods/materials. If you want to go with Schluter, go with their stuff or stuff they approve; if you want to go with Noble, stick with theirs or stuff they approve; and so on, with each of the suppliers. Each will have certain features/benefits/compatibilities that will dictate which is the best for your application.

    Concrete doesn't need to 'dry' (unless you're talking about a modified product with laytex or similar polymers in it)...it cures and incorporates that moisture into its chemical structure. Curing with full hydration creates the highest strength. But, concrete is often mixed with more water than is needed to fully cure which makes it easier to pour and tool (too much and it becomes weak, though).

    A conventional slab will give off enough water vapor from excess moisture such that without special considerations, you shouldn't tile it for 28-days.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member DIYDan1's Avatar
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    John thanks for your reply, let me try to describe the project better. The tub/shower is about 12 inches below floor grade. I'm filling it in to make a curbless shower. To raise the existing I plan on filling the tub (area) with compacted fill sand (approx 6") then pouring a 4" slab over it (tied into the existing floor wall with rebar) then topping the new slab with a mud bed to create the slope to the noble linear drain ( which will be anchored to the concrete slab). Then I'll cover the mud bed with the noble liner to form the shower pan. This will take me to the current floor grade. I've allowed for a suitable slope to drive to drive any water away from the shower entrance. I plan on using hydro ban on the CBU walls. So back to my original questions, I'll make the slab out of general purpose concrete (I don't think the Mapecem is appropate for the slab?)
    -Wait the full 28 day cure time before I cover with the slopping mudbed...?? I was hoping to give a week or so then cover with poly before putting on the mudbed. It would still be a couple of weeks before I get to tiling etc. I've tried to research this out on the web and forums but there is a lot of conflicting (and more info on wood floor showers) information. Basically relating to the curing of the concrete: If I pour the slab (2' x5') how long before I can start working on it? I was thinking the poly would prevent the mudbed (mortar) from sucking moisture from the concrete, but not sure if that would create a sliding scenario for the two surfaces? I believe from watching the noble install video that the mudbed will be water tight with the noble fabric over the linear drain. What would be the likely outcome if I put the mudbed down over the slab before it "fully" cured?

    Thanks, your forums have been a great help.
    Dan

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) removed by John Whipple
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    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member DIYDan1's Avatar
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    OK gotcha. In the Nobel video they show putting the water proof fabric over the mud bed then the thin set for tiling. How long before i can tile over the newly set mud bed? Next day I assume?

    Dan

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) removed by John Whipple
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    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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