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Thread: Salt setting?

  1. #16
    DIY Member dmendiol's Avatar
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    What is the 1/2 cu. ft GAC pre filter tank?

  2. #17
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Perfect system except for the ugly almond tank color.

    If I remember I will post the programming guide we send to OEM's It will wlk you through the master programming so it will be set properly.

    We havent stocked almond for close to 5 years. Every system goes out either black or with a Stainless jacket.

    I would ask them to charge a little extra for an 18x40 brine tank and 10% cross link resin. A salt grid is not important, nor is it a bad thing. It is used primarily for allowing the use of smaller brine tanks when space limitations are a concern. Some people will say the brining is better, or that the system will perform better, this is not true. I prefer larger brine tanks since you dont have to fill them as often. I wish I had the space for a 24x48, lol. I would only have to fill it every other year!

  3. #18
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmendiol View Post
    What is the 1/2 cu. ft GAC pre filter tank?
    That is a small tank that goes on top of the softener tank and has GAC in it. It is a bit of a custom system, it adds considerable height to the unit. It does a fair job at removing Chlorine from the water supply and protecting the resin from damage. It is limited in its ability on paper, but in the real world tests, it has worked very well. I posted a picture of it in one of the recent posts. Take a look at the last few and you will see the system.

  4. #19
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I agree with the 2.5 cuft but I don't like the 7000 over the 2510. And my long time ago experience with combination filter/softener units still has me turned off to them. Mostly due to getting the spent carbon or resin out and replaced if necessary. And I don't like removing all chlorine in a house and proposed a point of use drinking water filter and a shower head filter instead.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  5. #20
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The 2510 was the best valve when it was introduced. The collar, the heavy motor design, and the simplicity. The 7000 had some growing pains, especially since it was a new valve design from the ground up. The motor failures were the main problem, and a year ago we had some issues with the board, but that was a PLC programming error, not a bad circuit board. We still sell some 2510 valves, but their reliability is no better than the 7000. The 7000 is much less expensive, has a much better meter (electronic), and superior flow rates, backwash capability, better bypass, more plumbing connector options and it is the only valve that has a nema rating. The Fleck "Environmental" covers are not technically rated for outdoor use. I know a few of our customers had a couple problems with the 7000 in the past and they are turned off by them. Once people start using them again, it quickly becomes their favorite valve. now if you are looking for anon electronic valve, the 2510 is absolutely the best choice.

    I agree that stacked tank designs in the past have been miserable. The Clack and Mattson stacked tank connectors were not very good designs. We do our design completely differently. Ours are molded instead of machined allowing us to use a glass filled noryl instead of PVC, and we use a split manifold design. This allows the top tank te be removed from the bottom tank without having to lift the tank up and over the manifold. When you remove the top tank, the manifold assembly in the lower tank is a standard, flush cut 1.05" (3/4" PVC) riser tube. The top tank can be serviced in less than 5-10 minutes.

    There are some good reasons to not dechlorinate the entire house, but for most people it is not an issue. A chlorine tablet in the toilet tank, and you are good to go. I have never been a fan of shower filters, and we manufacture several designs and sell thousands amonth, but I have never been a big promoter of them. Considering contact time and removal rates, we are forced to attempt treatment by using sulfites, KDF and or carbon combinations. These are all great technologies, and I know of several companies that claim to have the "secret ingredient that is proprietary to them", but their are no secrets, we all use the same basic designs, and same basic ingredients. We build these secret filters for several companies. Point of use drinking should always be done regardless. I dont really trust that my local municipality will alway send me safe water without fail, ever. That is not a reasonable expectation. A standard RO system is always a good choice for drinking water.Name:  horizontalb.jpg
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    This picture is of the tank connector we make. It is the best adapter available and they are also 1/3 the cost of the other manufacturers. It is molded which keeps the cost very low per unit. Of course the mold will take 15 years to pay for itself...

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