How to move shower drain 2" without increasing the height of the drain

Lisa99 · Jan 15, 2012

We need to move the shower drain 2" to the right (see picture below) while keeping the moved pipe at the same height (or lower if possible) than it is now.

Research on this site indicated the easy way to do this is to use two 45 degree couplers, however the couplers add to the height of the moved pipe. We also can't cut the trap and move it without cutting into the concrete. Other option we've seen is flexible PVC, but don't know if that is acceptable for a shower drain.

What would you guys do in this situation?

Hackney plumbing · Jan 15, 2012

I would break the concrete and relocate the drain to the location I needed. The trap swings to adjust its location. Simple job for a pro,for sure.

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Dlarrivee · Jan 15, 2012

I would chip away enough concrete on the bottom left of that photo to get to the trap arm.

Then I'd use a new trap and land the drain where it needed to go.

Why would using a 45* coupling add height?

You can't really lower the trap, the drain needs a 1/4"/foot pitch down stream...

hj · Jan 15, 2012

cut the "P" trap off and then use a fitting(s) to relocate the new one where it has to be. VERY easy solution. There is absolutely nothing which will move the trap sideways without increasing the height.

Dlarrivee · Jan 15, 2012

Oh wow, I didn't think the OP actually expected to make up that offset vertically before the trap without adding height.

Lisa99 · Jan 15, 2012

Thanks for the guidance. Chipping is almost done and the new trap and pipes are bought. Was hoping there was a cool gadget I didn't know about to avoid chipping but it just wasn't to be!

Dlarrivee · Jan 15, 2012

The best way is usually the one that takes a decent amount of effort. Trying to save that effort will generally land you with a sub-par install.

Lisa99 · Jan 21, 2012

Thanks for the help!

Thanks everyone for your advice. We finished moving the shower drain the needed 2" this morning. Rented a small demo hammer so chipping out the floor took <30 minutes.

We're advanced DIYers in several areas but hadn't tackled moving anything in concrete, so this was very satisfying. Thanks for all your help.

Here is the finished drain. The blue tape was used to ensure we got the drain in the exact right spot.

hj · Jan 21, 2012

How about another picture with more light on the point where you made the connection. There does not seem to be enough concrete broken out to have made any type of proper joint.

Lisa99 · Jan 24, 2012

Sorry HJ, just now saw your question. We've already set the shower base so can't take more pictures.

What you can't see in the pic is that there is more concrete chipped away around the actual joint. It was far enough back to fully seat the connector between the pipe and the P-Trap. We also did a leak test before sealing everything back up.

Terry · Jan 24, 2012

Hackney, Now that I look at it again, it is a coupling, and the swivel is what fooled me.

Hackney plumbing · Jan 24, 2012

Terry said:
Hackney,
Now that I look at it again, it is a coupling, and the swivel is what fooled me.

Its all black and not a great pic to begin with. I only use PVC so somtimes a pic of ABS will throw me off as to sizes. That was a poor choice of P=traps and it wouldn;t have passed inspection here.....its not accessible. Should have been a solvent welded connection.

Dlarrivee · Jan 24, 2012

What makes you think it's not solvent welded?

Do you honestly expect access to a trap under and shower that is on a slab?

Hackney plumbing · Jan 24, 2012

dlarrivee said:
What makes you think it's not solvent welded?

Do you honestly expect access to a trap under and shower that is on a slab?

It appears in the pic that it has a union nut connection. No thats why if its a union,it doesn't need to be there because its on a slab.

If it is solvent welded thats great isn't it??? I think it would be anyway.

How to move shower drain 2" without increasing the height of the drain

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