how do i disconnect power on a split buss?

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tom 1973

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panel 1.jpgpanel 2.jpgPanel 3.jpgPanel 4.jpg


I have a split buss panel. I'd like to change the wiring to the double pole 20A breaker in the bottom right corner. It is currently wired for an electric stove. The stove doesn't exist. We have gas. I'd like to use the breaker to run 8 gauge wire into another room to make a sub panel.

How do I shut off the power to the breaker so I don't get zapped?
 

Jadnashua

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This appears to be a subpanel, so find the panel that is feeding this one and shut off its feed there by flipping the proper breaker off. Also, note I'm not a pro at this, it appears that this panel is deficient in that as a subpanel, it is required to have a four-wire feed with separate neutral and ground leads; you only have a ground lead, which may be tied to neutral back at the main panel, but should be separate here. If you don't have a proper neutral, you can't make any 120vac circuits, as the ground lead should NOT be carrying any current except in a fault situation. That, along with the fact that it is not insulated makes for a major problem. I don't think the panel would pass code, even when it was installed, let alone today. But, again, I'm not a pro and may be missing something.

One of the pros will either verify or reject my assessment...I think I'd call a pro and do some rewiring to make it safe and get what you want. That uncapped big hole on the side of the panel isn't a good thing, either.
 

JWelectric

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What you really need is to start over in that panel. There is more code violations there than I am willing to go into.

You really need to hire a professional to remedy these problems. This panel is so bad that I will not make any other comment
 

ActionDave

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You don't have a split buss panel. Where is this panel located? Where does it get its power from?
It may or may not need four wires.
The panel could use a little TLC.
 

JWelectric

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You don't have a split buss panel. Where is this panel located? Where does it get its power from?
It may or may not need four wires.
The panel could use a little TLC.

If it didn't need four wires wouldn't it need a main?
 

hj

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1. You work on the breaker without getting "zapped" by turning it off.
2. You can also "pop" the breaker out of the panel to work on it without getting "zapped".
3. The "bus bars" are both completely covered by the breakers so you could NOT accidently contact them while doing your revision.
4. It appears to be fed with "entrance cable" which uses the "armor shield/sheath" as a the neutral AND ground.
5. This is the kind of question that implies the task is beyond your experience level.
 
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DonL

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I you are going to feed another sub panel and use 8 Gauge wire then the breaker in the box would be sized about correct. Then size the sub-panel breakers for the lower 20 amp rating.

That does not appear to be a split Bus Electrical panel, as Dave pointed out. Where did you get that info ?

HJ is Correct , This is the kind of question implies the task may be beyond your experience level.

JW also makes a valid point.


Be careful playing with electricity. Turn ALL the breakers off before working on it.


I personally do not like panels with NO main Breaker. Even if it did meet code when installed.
 
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Jimbo

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I seem to see the whites and the grounds all connected to the same place....does that make it a main panel, rather than a sub????
 

ActionDave

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I seem to see the whites and the grounds all connected to the same place....does that make it a main panel, rather than a sub????
In order for it to be a main panel it would need a main breaker or six or fewer breakers.

At one time you could feed a separate building with three wires and re-bond the neutrals and grounds, but it had to meet the same conditions as above. In my post #4 I said you may not need four wires to a sub, but JW correctly pointed out the error.
 

hj

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qutoe; Just so everyone knows, this is a place that tom1973 is renting

WHERE did that information come from, and if so, why is he doing ANYTHING to it?
 
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