Masonry will wick water in- messing around with the pointing does next to nothing. Filling actual hole will do something, but probably not much. Do NOT fill any weep-holes at the bottom of the brick- they're designed to let condesation water out from behind the brick, and provide a small amount of ventilation. If anything, those could be expanded, and you may want to add some holes in the mortar at the uppermost course (providing there's at least SOME overhang) to allow the masonry cavity to thermosiphon, expelling moisture from vapor drives:
Moisture can load up in the studwall only during the winter months, when the outer portions of the studs are colder than the dewpoint of interior air (typically 0-5C, depending on interior temp & humidity.) Once it's over 5C outside, unless there is an exterior vapor retarder the assembly would be able to dry fairly readily toward the exterior. Conversely, during the warmer months moisture from vapor drives toward the interior can indeed be high enough that it's dew point is above the room (and vapor barrier) temp, even when the outdoor air dew points are much lower. The fact that the brick can store water, then release it rapidly when heated makes that difference.
Back-ventilating the brick reduces that drive considerably. There SHOULD be a cavity and drain-plane (felt/houswrap) between the studwall and the masonry to vent water vapor. If the repaired masonry didn't place the felt correctly, so that it directs condnesation coming down the drain-plane into the studwall cavity, or a section was missing so that the sometimes very-damp gap-air can get into the studwall wall cavity, OR the masonry is in direct contact with the drain-plane (no gap) in that section you can run into this.
If you're taking down the interior studwall & replacing it, put 1-2" of XPS (Extruded poly styrene) foam board on the exterior, 2 layers of felt, and leave at least 20mm of air between the felt & masonry. Seal the brick with silane or acrylic masonry sealer on both the interior & exterior sides while your at it, which will significantly reduce it's capillary draw from rain-wetting & dew events while leaving it vapor-permeable enough to dry (read the specs on whatever you use for vapor permeability- it's important! Most masonry sealeras are vapor permeable, but some, not so much...)
If you experience condensation on the poly after that it means there is either a bulk-water leak somewhere (which you would probably have found when you took it apart), or there is air-leakage at some place along the poly.
Do NOT spray foam directly on the brick, or you'll have premature failure of the mortar (or even brick). It needs to be able to dry in both directions. Open cell foam is not an option, since it's highly permeable to water vapor (but not air), and you'd run into similar issues.
Read this: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...voir-claddings
Bear in mind, XPS is semi-impermeable- at thicknesses of greater than 2" you may end up with a vapor-trap if you have interior poly (required by code, in Canada). But at under 2", with taped/foamed/mastic-sealed seams to form an air-barrier it will reject most of the moisture drive that occurs when sun hits the damp brick, but is still permeable enough that the assembly can dry from minor wetting events. Don't use foil or poly faced goods on the exterior in your climate, or you WILL create moisture problems in the wall. (Exception: If the total R value of the exterior foam is ~60%+ of the total R-value you can skip the interior poly, and let the studs & sheathing dry toward the interior. The code requirement for 6-mil poly on the interior only makes sense for convnetional-traditional wall stackups, but in high performance buildings with a lot of exterior foam interior poly becomes detrimental to moisture control.)