a plumber installed this for me -- was it done properly?

**Pickngrin** · 01-01-2012, 02:24 PM

Happy New Year. I had a plumber come to install a drain for a utility sink in my garage. This is what he did. I'm not a plumber, but I thought that the sink drain had to run into a vertical drain. The drain stack is behind that wall stud, to the left of the fitting that he installed. The copper pipe running through the drywall is the drain from the bathroom sink. I asked him about the angling of the drain and he said that it didn't have to be angled. That doesn't seem consistent with what I've read, but again, I'm not a plumber. He told me to make a little riser for the plastic sink out of 2 x 4. Is this OK or do I have a problem? By the way, I figured out not to use the sink on the other side of the wall (he did not install the sink itself) before the sink is attached, but he never bothered to tell me not to.
Thanks.

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Views: 305
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**cacher_chick** · 01-01-2012, 03:50 PM

Looks like it was done by the lowest bidder. A sink drain needs to be 2", and it needs to be pitched to the main. It cannot be connected to the main stack without a vent if there are other fixtures draining into the stack above it.

Next time you hire someone, insist that they get a permit and inspection done prior to paying.
Are you sure he was a plumber?

**Pipewrench** · 01-01-2012, 03:54 PM

So did he just access th copper drain then put that tee in the line? I'm not sure what you're talking about on the 2x4 riser. I'm not crazy about the rubber fernco either. Looks terrible. I would have used a male and female fittings to make the transition to pvc for better support. Other than looking cheap it should work ok for a shop sink. Looks like your dryer vent is running along the floor there also. Is that gonna be in the way??? Good luck buddy

**jadnashua** · 01-01-2012, 05:36 PM

The coupling he used is not approved for internal use - it needs to be a banded coupling. Plus, I don't think it would pass as it doesn't appear to be vented, reductions in size are not permitted, and a T is not the proper fitting to attach into a drain line, even if the rest was okay. while a permit may add some to the cost, it also ensures you get it done right the first time in most cases.

**Dunbar Plumbing** · 01-01-2012, 06:35 PM

Was the work done for less than $100?

**dlarrivee** · 01-01-2012, 06:45 PM

No it was not done properly. It could have been a little worse, but not much.

**Dunbar Plumbing** · 01-01-2012, 07:20 PM

I've been put in this situation before, where "doing it right" involves a considerable amount of money and effort to do it correctly.

To do it correctly,

Get to where that drain stack is, remove the tee and install a tee that is 2" by the size of that stack. From there, you either design the piping with incorporation of a wye with the ability to vent those fixtures individually or not.

The work shows they just added a tee into an existing trap arm off the other fixture.

To do the job correctly, there's considerably more money involved to do it right.

**Tom Sawyer** · 01-01-2012, 07:22 PM

That's ugly man, just plain ugly and, it in no way meets code.

**dlarrivee** · 01-01-2012, 07:22 PM

The title of the thread asks the question.

If it costs too much, maybe the sink doesn't go in.

**cacher_chick** · 01-01-2012, 07:27 PM

The plumber could replace rest of the copper with pvc and make a profit on the scrap copper alone.

**johnjh2o1** · 01-01-2012, 07:40 PM

He also used a compression fitting in the copper line that will not be accessible.

John

**dlarrivee** · 01-01-2012, 08:20 PM

I just noticed the compression fitting.

He must be one hell of a "plumber".

**Pickngrin** · 01-02-2012, 05:56 AM

Ugh. Yeah, my gut told me this was not right. He claimed to be licensed although I never asked for a license #. I don't have much experience hiring plumbers and have learned my lesson from this experience. I figured it was an easy job for anyone competent (competent being the key word here) and didn't worry too much about it. He drives a van advertising drain cleaning. Perhaps he lies about being a plumber. Anyhow, I am actually going to email him and tell him I received feedback that there are problems with this installation. My main concern now is the compression fittings inside the wall, in case they leak. I'm going to tell him that's a problem. I doubt he will rectify it, but it's worth asking. If he doesn't do it, would it make sense for me to replace them (I do know how to solder fittings)? Would it make sense for me to replace that rubber coupling?
Again, I'm looking at this as a lesson learned.

Thanks again.

hj · 01-02-2012, 07:33 AM

I am not sure WHY he used the rubber coupling when all he had to do was solder a stub of copper into the tee. He did a "quick and dirty" installation, but I am sure he was the cheapest "plumber" you talked to. Most plumbers are also sewer cleaners. Few "sewer cleaners" are plumbers.

**Pickngrin** · 01-02-2012, 07:51 AM

Originally Posted by hj

I am not sure WHY he used the rubber coupling when all he had to do was solder a stub of copper into the tee. He did a "quick and dirty" installation, but I am sure he was the cheapest "plumber" you talked to. Most plumbers are also sewer cleaners. Few "sewer cleaners" are plumbers.

He was the only "plumber" I spoke to, actually. Would it make sense for me to replace the rubber coupling with a length of copper? What about the compression fittings?