Model 2006 Faucet & Sink Installer
I use this with a pair of channel locks. It is a very good tool that has many other uses as well. I know that Home Depot carries them so that may be your best bet; however ridgid is very common here so it is probably available at many places.
Tips on installing basket strainers:
1. Use silcone on everything except stainless steel.
We have strayed away from plumbers putty altogether, if the building sits for a long period the putty will dry up and leak. We had multiple leaks on model homes that would sit empty for 3+ years. Also with the large amount of forclosures out there this is probably going to be a larger problem. DO NOT use silicone on stainless steel as you will never be able to remove it. I assume there is some kind of chemical bond that occurs but we have dented up some stainless steel sinks attempting to detach the strainers.
2. Use a small amount of "Pipe dope" on threads.
The threads do not need to be water proof. They only act to hold the strainer to the sink. The seal created by the silicone/sealant itself is the only thing that is required to seal it. Even the rubber gasket doesn't act as a seal, just a buffer. Make sure to keep the cardboard ring on also as it acts as a friction ring between the metal and rubber to allow it to fully tighten without expanding or breaking the rubber. The dope will help lubricate the threads for easier tightening.
3. Make the letters readable / line up the opening.
Have some craftsmanship. Some strainers are printed with U.S.A. or Taiwan, etc. And most have the elongated hole in the center. Do not leave these upsidedown, sideways, or crooked. This will show the customer that you take the extra step in performing your job well. Like I alway tell my apprentices "If it looks good, I wont worry about problems with it.".
This is my first response to a thread and I hope you find it useful (probably overboard).