Leaking Grohe model 34-436.

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KT444

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Grohe Valve maintenance

Thank you for the response. I did get a deep well socket and cleaned out the stop valve. I tried the shower and the pressure is great. However, when I tried to put the valve back together, a strong stream of water comes out of the stop valve split screws. I was wondering if you have an idea as to what I am doing wrong. Also, I don't understand why there are holes in the screw caps for water to come out since it can only go into the wall.
Thanks for your help.
 

radarguy

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Thanks to this forum for giving me enough information to start my repairs. My eight year old Grohe shower valve 34-436 was dripping. I could not find the O-ring repair kit mentioned above at any dealer or even the Connecticut Grohe distributor. However, two of the three I talked to said that the solution was replacement of the complete stop valve assembly, not the O-rings. The other did not offer a comment. It seems the cost of the assembly is $160 (not sure if that's for a pair or not). I e-mailed Grohe tech service (see http://www.groheamerica.com/s/25_40...hp?if_url=http://12.130.64.173/contactus2.htm) and asked if O-rings only would do the job. They said I should replace the whole stop valve assembly and sent a pair to me under warranty. P/N 08 355 00M. My experience follows. Do it at your own risk. I suggest that you get the valve assemblies from Grohe and then use a plumber if you have any trepidation.

Make sure you mark each part as to the order removed and which side faces forward. Use the diagrams at the locations listed below to help you:
http://db.grohecatalog.com/upload/p_explo/E34436US.jpg
http://db.grohecatalog.com/upload/p_spare/sp34436.gif

You will need a 17 mm socket to remove the stop valve assembly. Since the stop valves are spring loaded and push into the assembly, it does not have to be a deep socket.

Replacement is a little tricky because the whole volume control assembly (including the stop valves and yoke) wants to push outwards until the retaining ring that holds the volume lever is replaced. When the assembly moves out too far, water squirts out of the holes as mentioned in a previous post. Since you have to turn on the service stops before replacing the escutcheon, volume control lever and retaining ring, it becomes impossible unless you shut off the water to the bathroom first.

The squirting water is a normal consequence of the stop valve design and is usually prevented from happening by an O-ring internal to the valve. When the valve is pushed out too far, the O-ring becomes useless and hence the squirt of water. This will not happen with the volume control lever retaining ring in place unless the yoke plate attached to the stop valves is not adjusted properly (perhaps this is the problem observed in the previous post). I suspect that the hole is there to relieve air pressure internal to the stop valve as the yoke pulls it in and out. However, if the O-ring should fail, it will be a heck of a mess that you won't detect until the walls or ceiling show signs of water damage. I hope I'm wrong about this observation, but I don't think so.

You must adjust the yoke assembly before replacing the escutcheon. This means you first have to put the yoke, volume control lever and retaining ring in place without the escutcheon and adjust the yoke position by turning the white Teflon ring (using the volume handle) counter clockwise until it stops. This is the off position. Mark the position of the white ring at that point. Then disassemble and reassemble with the escutcheon in place and positioning your mark properly. Don't forget to turn the service stops on. Turn the bathroom supply on after assembly.
 

kris1

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so where does the leak actually occur from the thermostat ? I have a similar grohe fixture. I see a leak after 45 minutes. on the other side of the wall from the shower stall in by guest bedroom carpet.
 

artbeat

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I also have a problem with my Grohe model 34-436

It started as a leaky faucet and the valve being to tight for my wife to turn on the faucet. So I ended up changing the thermoelement cartridge and the stop valve and my faucet had no leak and was easy to turn on the faucet lever. But now my hot and cold doesn't work I only get one temperature in water. I just can't figure out, could it be the service stop or should I give up? Any ideas I would appreciate any advice that could be given? Thanks.
 

Peanut9199

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Check to see if the water is piped correctly to your valve.
A lot of times a plumber will reverse the hot and cold and this will mess up the thermostatic cartridge.
A plumber when finding this error will put in a reverse cartridge instead of re-piping the valve.
When you replaced the cartridge you may have put in the correct one for the valve but not for the piping.
 

daffy

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Perhaps someone can help to diagnose my problems with a 1-year old Grohe 34-436 unit (at this stage I must admit that it’s had the problems since it was installed – it’s taken me until now to try and solve them ;), prompted by finding this thread and realizing that others have problems with this unit as well…!):

1) Although the input water supply temperatures are 72 and 122, the full range (from full cold to full hot – past the stop) from the valve is only 96 to 104 degrees.

2) The water flow is relatively weak, and the water only comes on after the lever is moved past the half way point.

I have stripped the unit and cleaned the filters (didn’t have much gunk on them) and with the stop valves and element removed flushed the system (and this showed that the supply pressure was ‘good’ although I don’t know how to measure it more precisely).

And a reassembly question – do the stop valves tighten onto the black plastic escutcheon attachment collar, or do they tighten directly onto the brass body?

I used the Grohe ‘contact us’ system to seek their suggestions but didn’t get a response. Any ideas out there…???
 

Peanut9199

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If you get differing tempertures i would say it was the cartridge, but if your getting low flow i would say there is a blockage.
The stops and valves thread directly into the body.
Grohe.JPG
On the unit there is two stops and two stop valves with strainers have you checked all of them?
You can also give them a call
GROHE AMERICA, INC.
241 Covington Drive
Bloomingdale, IL 60108
U.S.A.
Phone: 630-582-7711
FAX: 630-582-7722
 

daffy

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Thanks - partially fixed

Many thanks for the suggestions.

At least part of the problem was that the installers (all 4 of them puzzled over how to install this fitting) screwed the inner stop valves onto the rim of the black plastic escutcheon attachment collar rather than directly onto the brass body of the fitting - that restricted the amount of inner stop valve movement. Last night I quickly fixed this and there is now much greater temperature variation and slightly greater water pressure from the shower head (a Relexa Ultra - perhaps this isn't a great shower head for strong water flow?).

I haven't yet stripped out the outer stops - I was using them to shut off the supply and didn't realize that they have filter screens as well; I'll do that in the weekend.

THANKS !
 

tedkunich

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Tips for removing thermostatic valve?

I replaced the o-rings in the stop valves last night to fix the leaking shower, but this morning all I got was hot water out of the tap. My guess is that debris got into the thermo unit, but I am unsure how this item is removed. I tried loosening it with the 22mm hex, but it only budged a degree or two - is this a threaded unit? This is an older model (my guess is 10-15years old put in by the house's prior owner).

Is there any trick to remove the cartridge?


Thanks,

Ted
 

Norval Jones

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Grohe 34-436

I've had this for several years now. When it first started leaking, I just tried replacing the o-rings. It stopped the leak, but all I could get was hot water.

The only thing that fixes the leak and allows the water to balance (to get both hot and cold water) is to replace both the thermo element valve and the both of the stop valves.

You'll need both the 47.111 and the 08.355.

I have replaced all three of those valves twice now, (last time in March of 2005) and it has started to leak again.

I've contacted Grohe, to see if they will send more replacements. We'll see what happens.

Also, it is somewhat difficult to get the parts back together, that is, setting the part that goes behind the handle in the right place as well as where to place the temp. gauge. If you try to hire a plumber that isn't familiar with these then it might cost you quite a bit if it takes him a long time. You might ask them if they know how to replace them before you get them to come out.

If you're able to do it yourself, get a digital camera and take pictures as you disassemble it. It will still be fairly difficult, but it will help if you can see how it looked before.
 
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frustratedplumber

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fixing the drip

This forum has been very helpful. I also called Grohe and the helpful service rep told me that my 7-year old facet was still under warranty. They are sending me two complete stop valves free of charge. However, I also found the o-ring set for the valve stem & stop valve exterior (47 045) available online at Guillens. Although this is listed for the 34 434 facet, don't be deterred. The stop valve 08 355 is the same as for the 34 436 facet.
 

forhabi

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It's probably me

This forum is great, thanks all for the awesome info.

We bought a house last year and inherited a bathroom with a Grohe model 34-436 faucet for the shower (for a shower pan) – possibly the best part if the bathroom. The faucet was working great, but when removing the baseboard in the bathroom I saw a little bit of mold and a wet spot at the edge of the shower pan under the baseboard. I figured it might be the grout around the pan that was leaking, but then also noticed a gap between the shower pan and the escutcheon. So I tightened the plate to move it closer to the wall… and that’s when the problem started.

The lever became very tight when the faucet was moved into the close position and the shower started to drip, ever so slightly. Probably a drop every 15 seconds. This was before a read this thread, so I was not confident on opening up the faucet to see what was going on. After reading this post it sounds to me that my stop valves might not be a problem, but instead possibly a faulty installation?

When I loosen the screws that hold the escutcheon, the lever becomes less tight when closing the faucet. Has anyone had this kind of a problem? is the escutcheon supposed to move when the lever is turned (it gets pulled in when the lever is moved right to close the shower). Any ideas on what I should look into first?

Looking at the exploded diagram of the faucet, it looks like the escutcheon is supposed to screw into the plaster guard. Is the plaster guard then supposed to move with the yoke?

What is the compensating ring part number 47 347 supposed to do? would that help in my case?
 
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Jadnashua

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The plaster guard is typically removed after tiling/plastering. It is there to protect the valve from getting all covered with crud while you are doing the finished wall. I did not look at the cutaway drawing, but the compensation ring may have one of several functions: it could be a limit stop as part of the federally mandated anti-scald rules, it could be an adapter to allow the handle to fit to that valve body, or some other purpose.

But, especially if the valve body is not installed in the wall plumb, tightening down the plate might put some twist on the valve and supply lines. Especially if they used the threaded connections and they weren't done well, that pressure could allow leaks to occur.
 
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The plaster guard is typically removed after tiling/plastering. It is there to protect the valve from getting all covered with crud while you are doing the finished wall. I did not look at the cutaway drawing, but the compensation ring may have one of several functions: it could be a limit stop as part of the federally mandated anti-scald rules, it could be an adapter to allow the handle to fit to that valve body, or some other purpose.

But, especially if the valve body is not installed in the wall plumb, tightening down the plate might put some twist on the valve and supply lines. Especially if they used the threaded connections and they weren't done well, that pressure could allow leaks to occur.

Jad,
I installed a Hansgrohe with the plaster guard, and aside from trimming it flush with tile and then cutting out the center part that forms the 'water test' device, the rest stays in the wall, as per the instructions.

HE
 
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Tom94024

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Grohe 34 436 Temp Problem

I've read all these reply's about the Grohe stop valves but nobody mentioned a temp problem. I've had my Grohe shower for 8 years and about every 2-3 years the temp gets stuck. Twice it has been stuck on cold and once on hot. Meaning I turn the temp knob and nothing happens. In the past I have removed and "backflushed" the cartridge and cleaned the screen on it and this fixed the problem. This time it is stuck on hot(about 90F) and cleaning the cartridge isn't working. I have tried to take the cartridge apart without much luck. It does split in half where the screen is but that's is the best I have been able to do. I don't want to spend $150 on a new cartridge if I can fix this one but I don't have a diagram or instructions on how to disassemble the cartridge. I'm asking Grohe the same questions. Did someone say they don't answer emails and I should call them????
 

bang0r

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Need advice on taking out the thermoelement cartidge to fix temperature problem

My 34436 has exhibited the temperature stuck-at symptom as indicated in the post "Grohe 34 436 Temp Problem" by Tom94024. Grohe's tech support recommends replacing the thermoelement cartridge. I just received the part. But I am having difficulties taking out the old cartridge, and is about to stripping the 24mm hex nut. Ways that I have tried include using the 24mm wrench as indicated in the documentation, using two pipe wrench in opposite direction and WD-40. If you have experience taking out the cartridge or similar parts, your comment on how to take out a stuck part will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

bang0r

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I'd like to update the forum that the stuck cartridge has been taken out and replaced by the new one. Grohe's technical support provides a lot of help and good advice. Wrench doesn't work for me. A 24mm or 15/16" socket with sufficient depth makes the difference. An inexpensive set by Stanley (~$19) is available at my local Walmart.
 
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cwmacphail

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Slow Leak - Grohe Sends O-Rings Under Warranty

I phoned Grohe (Homeowner-Distributor Warranty dept) today about slow leak in my 34-436 Grohmix shower control (9 years old - installed in 2001). I told them I had removed the stop valves and the o-rings appeared worn. They are shipping me an o-ring kit at no charge.
 
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DanOh62

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I have the same problem so I thought I'd post to help others find the o-ring kit. First I am not a plumber but a doe-it-yourselfer so take my feedback with that in mind.
Problem: Dripping Grohe 08 355 Shower Faucet. I went to http://www.grohecatalog.com/line/Grohmix/Shower|Safety-Valves/ which is the Grohe America Web site for Shower Product Line for Grohmix. After reviewing 4 of the different products on this web page like Integrated Thermostat Valve 34 436 (http://www.grohecatalog.com/product/34436), Thermostat Valve 34 457, Thermostat Valve 34 456, and Thermostat Valve 34 434 (http://www.grohecatalog.com/product/34434) I noticed the guts of this product line for the most part were very similiar. I noticed a couple of these products used the same Washer set product No. 47 045 so I assume that most if not all products within the Grohmix product line can use the washer set kit.

I found the part 47 045 at http://www.americanhomeplus.com/ for $21.28 + $9.95 shipping a total of $31.23

Suggestion: Call Grohe first to see if they will send you a washer kit at no charge.
 

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