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Thread: Leaking Grohe model 34-436.

  1. #31
    DIY Junior Member Norval Jones's Avatar
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    Default Grohe 34-436

    I've had this for several years now. When it first started leaking, I just tried replacing the o-rings. It stopped the leak, but all I could get was hot water.

    The only thing that fixes the leak and allows the water to balance (to get both hot and cold water) is to replace both the thermo element valve and the both of the stop valves.

    You'll need both the 47.111 and the 08.355.

    I have replaced all three of those valves twice now, (last time in March of 2005) and it has started to leak again.

    I've contacted Grohe, to see if they will send more replacements. We'll see what happens.

    Also, it is somewhat difficult to get the parts back together, that is, setting the part that goes behind the handle in the right place as well as where to place the temp. gauge. If you try to hire a plumber that isn't familiar with these then it might cost you quite a bit if it takes him a long time. You might ask them if they know how to replace them before you get them to come out.

    If you're able to do it yourself, get a digital camera and take pictures as you disassemble it. It will still be fairly difficult, but it will help if you can see how it looked before.
    Last edited by Terry; 04-26-2011 at 06:51 PM.

  2. #32
    DIY Junior Member frustratedplumber's Avatar
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    Default fixing the drip

    This forum has been very helpful. I also called Grohe and the helpful service rep told me that my 7-year old facet was still under warranty. They are sending me two complete stop valves free of charge. However, I also found the o-ring set for the valve stem & stop valve exterior (47 045) available online at Guillens. Although this is listed for the 34 434 facet, don't be deterred. The stop valve 08 355 is the same as for the 34 436 facet.

  3. #33
    DIY Junior Member forhabi's Avatar
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    Default It's probably me

    This forum is great, thanks all for the awesome info.

    We bought a house last year and inherited a bathroom with a Grohe model 34-436 faucet for the shower (for a shower pan) – possibly the best part if the bathroom. The faucet was working great, but when removing the baseboard in the bathroom I saw a little bit of mold and a wet spot at the edge of the shower pan under the baseboard. I figured it might be the grout around the pan that was leaking, but then also noticed a gap between the shower pan and the escutcheon. So I tightened the plate to move it closer to the wall… and that’s when the problem started.

    The lever became very tight when the faucet was moved into the close position and the shower started to drip, ever so slightly. Probably a drop every 15 seconds. This was before a read this thread, so I was not confident on opening up the faucet to see what was going on. After reading this post it sounds to me that my stop valves might not be a problem, but instead possibly a faulty installation?

    When I loosen the screws that hold the escutcheon, the lever becomes less tight when closing the faucet. Has anyone had this kind of a problem? is the escutcheon supposed to move when the lever is turned (it gets pulled in when the lever is moved right to close the shower). Any ideas on what I should look into first?

    Looking at the exploded diagram of the faucet, it looks like the escutcheon is supposed to screw into the plaster guard. Is the plaster guard then supposed to move with the yoke?

    What is the compensating ring part number 47 347 supposed to do? would that help in my case?
    Last edited by Terry; 04-26-2011 at 06:52 PM.

  4. #34
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Default

    The plaster guard is typically removed after tiling/plastering. It is there to protect the valve from getting all covered with crud while you are doing the finished wall. I did not look at the cutaway drawing, but the compensation ring may have one of several functions: it could be a limit stop as part of the federally mandated anti-scald rules, it could be an adapter to allow the handle to fit to that valve body, or some other purpose.

    But, especially if the valve body is not installed in the wall plumb, tightening down the plate might put some twist on the valve and supply lines. Especially if they used the threaded connections and they weren't done well, that pressure could allow leaks to occur.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #35
    I teach guitar:You call that a job? Howard Emerson's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    The plaster guard is typically removed after tiling/plastering. It is there to protect the valve from getting all covered with crud while you are doing the finished wall. I did not look at the cutaway drawing, but the compensation ring may have one of several functions: it could be a limit stop as part of the federally mandated anti-scald rules, it could be an adapter to allow the handle to fit to that valve body, or some other purpose.

    But, especially if the valve body is not installed in the wall plumb, tightening down the plate might put some twist on the valve and supply lines. Especially if they used the threaded connections and they weren't done well, that pressure could allow leaks to occur.
    Jad,
    I installed a Hansgrohe with the plaster guard, and aside from trimming it flush with tile and then cutting out the center part that forms the 'water test' device, the rest stays in the wall, as per the instructions.

    HE
    Last edited by Terry; 04-26-2011 at 06:52 PM.

  6. #36
    DIY Junior Member Tom94024's Avatar
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    Default Grohe 34 436 Temp Problem

    I've read all these reply's about the Grohe stop valves but nobody mentioned a temp problem. I've had my Grohe shower for 8 years and about every 2-3 years the temp gets stuck. Twice it has been stuck on cold and once on hot. Meaning I turn the temp knob and nothing happens. In the past I have removed and "backflushed" the cartridge and cleaned the screen on it and this fixed the problem. This time it is stuck on hot(about 90F) and cleaning the cartridge isn't working. I have tried to take the cartridge apart without much luck. It does split in half where the screen is but that's is the best I have been able to do. I don't want to spend $150 on a new cartridge if I can fix this one but I don't have a diagram or instructions on how to disassemble the cartridge. I'm asking Grohe the same questions. Did someone say they don't answer emails and I should call them????

  7. #37
    DIY Junior Member bang0r's Avatar
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    Default Need advice on taking out the thermoelement cartidge to fix temperature problem

    My 34436 has exhibited the temperature stuck-at symptom as indicated in the post "Grohe 34 436 Temp Problem" by Tom94024. Grohe's tech support recommends replacing the thermoelement cartridge. I just received the part. But I am having difficulties taking out the old cartridge, and is about to stripping the 24mm hex nut. Ways that I have tried include using the 24mm wrench as indicated in the documentation, using two pipe wrench in opposite direction and WD-40. If you have experience taking out the cartridge or similar parts, your comment on how to take out a stuck part will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  8. #38
    DIY Junior Member bang0r's Avatar
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    Default

    I'd like to update the forum that the stuck cartridge has been taken out and replaced by the new one. Grohe's technical support provides a lot of help and good advice. Wrench doesn't work for me. A 24mm or 15/16" socket with sufficient depth makes the difference. An inexpensive set by Stanley (~$19) is available at my local Walmart.
    Last edited by Terry; 04-26-2011 at 06:50 PM.

  9. #39
    DIY Junior Member cwmacphail's Avatar
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    Default Slow Leak - Grohe Sends O-Rings Under Warranty

    I phoned Grohe (Homeowner-Distributor Warranty dept) today about slow leak in my 34-436 Grohmix shower control (9 years old - installed in 2001). I told them I had removed the stop valves and the o-rings appeared worn. They are shipping me an o-ring kit at no charge.
    Last edited by cwmacphail; 03-31-2010 at 10:20 AM.

  10. #40
    Software Engineer DanOh62's Avatar
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    Default

    I have the same problem so I thought I'd post to help others find the o-ring kit. First I am not a plumber but a doe-it-yourselfer so take my feedback with that in mind.
    Problem: Dripping Grohe 08 355 Shower Faucet. I went to http://www.grohecatalog.com/line/Gro...Safety-Valves/ which is the Grohe America Web site for Shower Product Line for Grohmix. After reviewing 4 of the different products on this web page like Integrated Thermostat Valve 34 436 (http://www.grohecatalog.com/product/34436), Thermostat Valve 34 457, Thermostat Valve 34 456, and Thermostat Valve 34 434 (http://www.grohecatalog.com/product/34434) I noticed the guts of this product line for the most part were very similiar. I noticed a couple of these products used the same Washer set product No. 47 045 so I assume that most if not all products within the Grohmix product line can use the washer set kit.

    I found the part 47 045 at http://www.americanhomeplus.com/ for $21.28 + $9.95 shipping a total of $31.23

    Suggestion: Call Grohe first to see if they will send you a washer kit at no charge.
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by DanOh62; 11-09-2010 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Will Call Grohe Next Time

  11. #41
    DIY Junior Member makeforchoke's Avatar
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    Default

    great posts!!! I have zero plumbing skills but I fixed the leak with the help of this blog. you're all invited to dinner. Thanks!!!

  12. #42
    DIY Junior Member dl2011's Avatar
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    Default Grohe 34436 - Water from the two screws holding the stopvalves to the guide plate

    Quote Originally Posted by KT444 View Post
    Thank you for the response. I did get a deep well socket and cleaned out the stop valve. I tried the shower and the pressure is great. However, when I tried to put the valve back together, a strong stream of water comes out of the stop valve split screws. I was wondering if you have an idea as to what I am doing wrong. Also, I don't understand why there are holes in the screw caps for water to come out since it can only go into the wall.
    Thanks for your help.
    Hi, I have the same problem with water coming out from the two screws that are holding the stop valves to the guide plate. I contacted Grohe. To solve the problem, they told me to turn the on/off handle 8-12 times to get out the air that are trapped inside the stop values. I tried it but the water is still coming out. I am waiting for Grohe to see what else to try. In the mean time, how did you solve the problem or does anyone know how to solve this problem?

    I have also tried to see if there is any adjustment with the position of the guide plate, and it doesn't seem to have any play for adjustment.

    I appreciate any info you have that can help me solve this problem. Thx.

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