Laundry tub drain issue

ddmoit · Dec 29, 2011

Hi folks,

I'm replacing a leaky concrete laundry tub and I've run into a drain problem. As I was attempting to loosen the elbow joint from the vertical pipe coming out of the floor, the pipe itself started rotating. I did not anticipate that. I have no idea what kind of connection is there under the floor. It's not threaded. I rotated the pipe counterclockwise several turns. It turns pretty freely, but does not move up or down. It seems too lose to be water tight any longer. I would appreciate some advice on how to proceed - preferably advice that doesn't have me busting up the floor.

Jeez, this was supposed to be a simple project.

Thanks!

Gary Swart · Dec 29, 2011

My guess is the pipe was leaded into a cast iron hub and the lead has broken loose allowing the pipe to turn. I think your best solution is to call a plumber. If I am correct, he can likely repair the connection fairly quickly. It is not a DIY job. Even if there is a different problem, a plumber would be the best chance to make the repair without breaking concrete. Sometimes, we DIY folks just have to holler for the pro.

Sponsor · 2022-01-29T12:20:58-0800

ddmoit · Dec 29, 2011

Thanks, Gary. What you have suggested is what I suspected.

ddmoit · Dec 29, 2011

Well, the first plumber to visit says concrete has to come out.

Cacher_Chick · Dec 29, 2011

Cutting out a 12" square of concrete would not be a big deal, but first I would want to know what his intentions were. Without seeing the broken connection, it is impossible to say whether it is necessary.

Not many plumbers will do lead and oakum joints anymore, which might be related to your situation.

hj · Dec 30, 2011

It could be a rubber Ty-Seal joint which is ALWAYS water tight and can always rotate. IF the joint were BELOW the concrete, it probably would NOT have rotated, so I do not think any concrete has to be removed. If it is a lead/oakum joint ANY "good" plumber would know that it just has to be calked tight again. Therefore, I question the ability, and/or ethics of someone who is trying to turn this into a "project". It is not a question of "many plumbers not doing lead joints", but rather most of them do NOT know how to do them any more>

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

The house was constructed in 1961. One of the plumbers I talked to is fairly sure it is a galvanized pipe leaded into an iron hub. Neither of the two plumbers I have contacted sees a way to fix this without breaking concrete.

I could probably break out the concrete myself in the time it would take me to find a plumber that knew how to fix this without demolition.

As always, I appreciate the advice, folks. Thanks!

Jimbo · Dec 30, 2011

First, breaking out the concrete around an existing hole is a fairly trivial task.
Second, I agree with his assessment that it is quite likely a galvanized pipe leaded into a cast iron drain. If the hub were right at the level of the floor, that would be easy, but the hub is probably 6 to 12 inches below, meaning you need to make a little working room.

Can you see the hub by looking down into the space with a flashlight?

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

Ha. I don't think I'll live long enough for breaking concrete to ever be trivial to me.

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

I think I'm about 6" down. I see a seam, so I think I'm down to iron.

Terry · Dec 30, 2011

That looks like you are at the cast iron hub now.
Good job breaking out the concrete.

Gary Swart · Dec 30, 2011

Well, I was a bit optimistic about not having to break out the concrete, but pretty close on the rest of my guess. Looks like you're getting the job done.

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

I'm using a hammer and chisel. Now I'm afraid of damaging the iron

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

Progress.

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

Here is an 18 second video of me moving the pipe. Any new insights from this? There is some slight movement in the hub in addition to the rotation of the pipe.

http://youtu.be/kLc38Px6Z-w

Cacher_Chick · Dec 30, 2011

It is pretty clear that the lead is no longer holding the joint together. As loose at it appears, you should be able to pull the pipe out, but you don't want to torque on or bang around that cast iron too much or you could loosen another joint.

You can drill the lead and pull it out, then the pipe will have nothing holding it. Then you can clean remaining lead and oakum out of the bell in the cast iron.

If you can find the proper Fernco Donut, you can set a new riser pipe in and pour some cement. I would replace the existing riser with PVC. If 2" will fit, it would be much preferred.

A shop-vac adapted to a small hose works good for cleaning out the hole.

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

Thanks, cacher_chick!

Gary Swart · Dec 30, 2011

With movement like that, I'd say HJ's thoughts on this being some time of rubber joint. I won't venture a guess if that needs replacing or what it should be replaced with. If it replaced, you might discuss a 2" replacement. I am a bit concerned about how this is vented. From what is shown in the photos, you have the makings of an S trap. I realize that other than the first photo, all we are seeing are closeups of the drain pipe, and venting is not part of your original question.

ddmoit · Dec 30, 2011

Here is the original set up. This is in a basement. The only "vent" to speak of is the drain pipe (on the left) for the kitchen sink directly up stairs. It is what it is.

hj · Dec 30, 2011

Everyone is telling you to "remove the pipe", but if all you are doing is replacing the sink, you do NOT have to remove it.

Laundry tub drain issue

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