Replacing a Delta 1300 series with a 1700 series

[desvio]

I just bought a house and found that the Delta tub\shower faucet in the master bathroom drips loudly all night long. The internet hasn't been installed yet so I'm having a hard time searching and identifying the parts at work, but as near as I can guess, I must have a delta classic 1300 series valve.

I am considering upgrading to separate volume and temperature controls and my limited search led me to the 1700 series.

This youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JljZXvWQAXA) makes it appear as if I only need to purchase a Monitor 17 series valve trim (T17078, T17094, or T17038 ~$70-$100) and an adapter (RP46073 ~$15).

A few questions:
Does the adapter let me use the existing 1300 series cartridge or will the trim come with a 1700 series cartridge?
The cartridge adapter has new springs and washers that should likely stop the drip –right?
Can I assume that because I have a 1300 the rough-in will be correct for a 1700 (R10000-UNBX)? The home was built in 1997 if that helps.

If the above is correct, I should be able to replace this myself for around $100 in under an hour. Otherwise, what am I missing?

I (and especially my wife) thank you in advance.

[LLigetfa]

I have the Monitor 17 trim with the separate temp and volume controls. I really like the separate controls.

If you are upgrading your current setup to gain separate temp and volume controls, then your existing single handle cartridge would not suffice so I don't understand why you are asking if you can use the existing 1300 series cartridge.

From what I could read, it sounds like you need the 1700 cartridge RP32104. I'm sure a call to 1-800-345-DELTA would get you an answer. The waranty is only for the original owner but a call might get you a free replacement for your 1300.

[hj]

That adapter is used with the "universal" valve body to allow the 1700 cartridge to work in it. As far as I know there is NO WAY to upgrade the 1300 body to any other "modern" style.

[jimbo]

The newer universal rough valves ( came out approx. 2006) can be operated as 1300, 1700, or 17T. That is NOT true of the older valve bodies.

[desvio]

Thanks for the help.

I'll have to check to see if I have enough play in the pipes and clearance to get a new rough-in valve body in. That would add another ~$30 and at least another hour or two. I haven't taken off the escutcheon plate yet as I didn't want to re-caulk if I didn't have to. The tub has a builder-grade wall surround (plastic?), so I wouldn't have to worry about cutting tile or anything. Being that I'm a DIYer, the simple springs and washers fix is sounding better and better. Maybe the separate volume and temperature controls will have to wait for my next home, but I'm not quite ready to give up.

I'll give it another look when I get home tonight.

[jadnashua]

Delta, and many others, make a remodel/rennovation plate especially designed to allow access when wanting to replace the rough-in valve. It covers the larger hole required to get to the plumbing. If you have access from behind, you won't need to make the hole bigger.

[hj]

IF you can do it in an hour, you are in the wrong business. The "remodel" plates look exactly like what they are, a "quick fix". I use Delta's larger secondary trim ring from their higher priced line, such as Victorian, turned sideways to cover the larger opening.