Water level drop

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Eurob

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I thought you spoke French? Your post sounds Greek to me. What the hell are you talking about.

What are you building now. Please share you stuff - I like looking at pictures....


Got to run. late for work...


No kidding..... As soon as I mentioned curves...... I know you got disoriented. LOL

Maybe later. Such pain to type on this crappy phone.....
 

Jadnashua

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A good porcelain tile has less than 1% absorbtion rate. Take your grout example...the head pressure is still WAY less than in the flood test. The head or water pressure on the membrane of a surface membrane shower is never worse than in the flood test, and if it does not leak then, it will never leak.

Looks aside, and there's no reason a Kerdi shower need look any different than a conventionally built one, if the workmanship is properly it DOES NOT LEAK! There are lots of acceptable ways to build the curb and the pan can use their tray or be made from deckmud. As long as the shape of the pan conforms to industry standards, once covered with Kerdi, it is fine.

The quality of the finish work has no reliable relationship to how well it was waterproofed. A beautiful looking shower can leak just as easily as a lousy one be watertight.

FWIW, there are some places in Hawaii that average nearly 400" of rain a year, verses some in say Arizona that may average 5". Does that mean that a roof in HI will leak verses one in AZ because it sees more water? No, properly built, they are both waterproof and protect what's underneath them.
 
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Loudgonzo

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John, can you post a picture of the shower in progress with the low curb when its completed? I like the tiles and want to see how the this one turns out, especially the floor.

thanks,
Leo
 

Jadnashua

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Can anyone show me where a porcelain tile broke loose from Ditra or Kerdi in an actual install when it was installed per Schluter's recommendations (this includes proper prep of the floor)? Yes, you probably can if there were not one of those membranes underneath it. The Robinson floor test of DitraXL on a 24" joist spacing (really stressful), installed per Schluter's recommendation gets a heavy or extra-heavy rating, depending on the tile size. This is better than installation at 16"OC with a cbu...so, who are you going to believe? The manufacturer that has the independent TCNA test results to verify it, or someone like John Whipple that just doesn't like me or Schluter, or believe they know how to install their own products? Those test reports are: TCNA-303-06 and TCNA-153-09. You can look them up yourself, if you don't believe me.

As to bond strength, the TCNA also did some tests with porcelain tile with unmodified mortar, and came up with the following shear test average values of 277 and 365psi. Those test results are in TCA-073-03 and TCA-186-03. If you extrapolate those results to a 12x12 tile, that comes to 144*277= 39,888 or 144*365=52,560. I think, along with the long-term experience with their use AND the independent test results, John is blowing smoke.
 

Eurob

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Vegas_sparky said:
Aside from adding more water every 15 minutes to keep half the coin covered, there's nothing to do.

If you build your water dam right , no more adding is needed . Like this one

Water dam 003 Resized.jpg

LOL
 

Vegas_sparky

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Oh, I'm funny. LOL

I had flood tested it with a plug after the liner install, and again after the screed bed with the plug. During the second test with the plug, the water level dropped very slowly. I didn't know if it was because I had poked a hole in the liner while the top layer went in, of if it was migrating through the weep holes. That was really bothering me.

A third test with a ball below the weep holes and I'm sure I have no leaks. I have so much confidence, I'm going into the shower building business..

















In Vancouver. (I get 10% of the cut from my junk you have to fix).

See, that's funny.
 

wilkinte

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Hey John, Tom from Utah back. While my flood testing went great, I'm a challenged tiler. Anyways, removing chipped tiles from my floor and I breached the kerdi, see pics. Sikaflex work here? hate to wait for kerdifix, could just thinset another layer down. Any advice appreciated!@!Salt Lake City-20140120-00059.jpgSalt Lake City-20140120-00060.jpg
 

Jadnashua

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If you patch with Kerdi or Kerdiband and maintain at least the 2" required overlap, it will be fine.
 

wilkinte

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The 2 inch is the issue. To get 2 inches I need to tear out more tile. Kerdi fix not a good soln?
 

Jadnashua

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KerdiFix would work. While other products might work, I think you'd be better off with the Kerdifix, if you can't just do it like a normal joint - make the patch as big as you can over the tear and get as much thinset off as possible in that area.
 

wilkinte

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versabond was used, kerdi is stuck like a champ everywhere I "strategically" removed tile, save for that breech. Thinking I was too aggressive cleaning out the thinset after busting up that tile. So maybe a kerdi fix patch over the cut (it's about 1/2 inch), let it cure a few days, then do a thinset patch over the whole area. Versabond kills my warranty anyways from what I understand so not sure how Herr Schluter will help.
 

wilkinte

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now that's some counsel! I made little chips in those 2x2 tiles because the boss of me wasn't pleased. And she'll never even use that shower! Thus taking the bastards up. Now after all is said and done, and retiled what about doing another leak test before grout. Just to be sure...
Plan would be to let everything cure for a couple days after retiling (and after the repair) and flood it. Any benefit there? Then if I do that how long to wait until grout. Thanks again sir,
 

Loudgonzo

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OK Leo.

I'm heading there today to meet the tile setter at 8:00 - He is going to install some Ditra first and then tile the floor this weekend. Please do not tell Jim that the tile setter is not going to level the floor. He will freak out!

The low curbs look amazing.

I'll dig up some photo's for you this morning. We did a killer Kerdi Steam Shower a few years back and that was really my first super low curb we built. Once we wrapped that job up I was hooked on the design.

It is way easier to use the Kerdi Curb. Big tiles. Big cuts. No sliver cuts. But looking at the Kerdi Curb tiled and one of my low curb designs it's clear what looks better. That and if you hurt your hip or knee you should still be able to get into your shower. I would bet anyone with a bad hip would not step over the tiled tool box (kerdi curb.

Stand By.

Hi John,

were you able to get updated pictures? Also, I read that the top of the curb needs to be at least 2" high from actual shower floor?

thanks,
Leo
 

Loudgonzo

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Leo please show us the exact code interpretation you are following. I would bet it is from an out dated source of info.

For example if you search curbless shower codes you will find dozens and dozens of references to the John Bridge members talking about a 2" drop. This code is from the IRC and affects only a few states. The UBC and UPC are followed by many and these code books have been updated.

Are you following more lame ass John Bridge Forum advice sighting the IRC or are you reading something from an updated UBC book?

This is from our county website, page 3
Section 417.5 Shower floors or receptors; amended to read as follows:

Floor surfaces shall be constructed of impervious, noncorrosive, nonabsorbent and waterproof materials.

Thresholds shall be a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm) and a maximum of 9 inches (229 mm), measured from top of the drain to top of threshold or dam. Thresholds shall be of sufficient width to accommodate a minimum twenty-two (22) inch (559 mm) door.

Exception: Showers designed to comply with ICC/ANSI A117.1.

http://www.wylietexas.gov/departments/building_inspection/docs/2012_Final_Local_Amendments_IPC_2013.docx
 

Loudgonzo

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sure, here you go:

Location:

Wylie Municipal Complex, 300 Country Club Rd., Building 100, 2nd Floor
Hours: Monday - Friday, 8:00 am - 5:00 pm CT
Phone: 972.516.6420
 

Loudgonzo

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Thanks John,

I'm not so concerned with having a curbless shower as I am with getting a lower than 6" kerdi curb. So what I will do, is use the kerdi pre sloped pan and use bricks instead of the foam curb. I will look into getting a solid curb top instead of tiling the top of curb; and then try to set to the minimum height of 2".

the pan is about 1 1/2" thick around the perimeter; so after tile and with the thickness of the solid curb top, I think the outside height of the curb could be closer to 4".

Also, I think that by using a solid curb top, if it overhangs a little bit, it will make the curb as a whole look less "boxy" and more aesthetically appealing.

Leo
 
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