A small basin and pump is better for that.
They will pump up the the pipes.
It's too far for the washer.
I need to relocate a clothes washer and dryer to the basement.
My question is how do I get rid of the water. I have a floor drain into a sump pump to a storm sewer, I am assuming that's a no-no.
There are plumbing pipes at the ceiling level (about 8' up). So if I can hook up to these do I need some sort of pump to get the water up there or will the washer handle this itself?
Thanks Terry, that's just what the doctor ordered
On checking out the various hookups I have the gas, water and drain figured out, but from the drawings of the drain sump pumps it seems that I also have to hook up a vent.
As there were no plumbing fixtures in my basement there are no vent pipes where I can tie into. Could someone tell me if typical plumbing code would allow me to vent out the side of the house?.
I think an AAV ( Air Admittance Valve ) is just what the doctor ordered. It will look something like this.
You can find them at the big box stores. When installed have the valve 4" above the highest part of the washer.
If the pump unit is installed properly, with a trap at the washing machine, then it is a closed system and an AAV will not allow the washer water to enter the pit.
HJ your right, I haven't had my coffee yet.
Last edited by Cass; 12-07-2005 at 06:39 AM.
Recognizing that we are only dealing with washing machine water as long as we prevent backflow, I would put the sump in with an inside vent to only serve the washing machine and have the pump discharge pump directly into an already vented drain pipe at the higher level. There would be check valve in the discharge line of the pump, and maybe a trap at the high level where the drain pipe already exists.
Grainger sells several small sump and pump systems (Stock numbers 4RK74, 4NY91, and 3XA92, price range $218.50 to $420) that look like they would do the job.
Every serious "do everything possible yourself" homeowner should have a Grainger catalog, if only for the ideas and price estimates.
My problem is that there is no availible vent pipe to tie into. I am right beside a wall that already has a vent & intake for my furnace. So, could I tie into the furnace vent or maybe run a separate vent thru the wall?
I'm not a plumber but I'm a civil and mechanical engineer. Here's my solution and the plumbers will probably tell you why it doesn't meet code; but it will work. Remember that you are only extending the hose of your washing machine with a little extra pumping power.
Put the sump (one of the smaller Grainger models for example; I would pick the 4RK74) on the floor beside your washing machine. Run your washing machine discharge hose into the sump. You need a "vent" in the sump just to admit the water from the washing machine, and that should run to near the ceiling of the room where it is installed.
Connect the discharge of the pump in the sump through a hose or pipe (at least as large as a washing machine hose but with secure clamps on both ends) to the drain line that is 8 ft up, or to any properly vented drain on a higher floor from which the water will reliably run down hill. I would put one of those plastic check valves in the discharge line if there is not already one in the pump.
If you connect to the existing drain, pipe it directly into a tee/wye in a drain pipe that is already properly vented. I would come in from above the line and put a trap in your inlet discharge line. I would try to select a place with at least a 2" drain because washing machines discharge water at a high rate and you will get a pretty good slug of water when the sump pump starts.
Quote: You need a "vent" in the sump just to admit the water from the washing machine, and that should run to near the ceiling of the room where it is installed.
After it reaches the ceiling where does it go then?
Leave it open. It is only a vent to let the air out of the sump so the washing machine can discharge to the sump. The pump in the sump pumps the water out and the water never rises above the float in the sump.
Think of the sump as the equivalent of an open sink. The vent that you have in the sump is the equivalent of the open top of the sink.
In fact, you could install a sink in the basement next to the washer and simply connect a pump to the outlet of the sink. Hook the end of the washing machine hose over the edge of the sink (wire it in place). Put a float switch in the sink, or better in a standpipe next to the sink in the line between the sink and the pump. Now you have a sink in your basement as well as a washing machine, served by the same pump .
Total equipment required:
Sink + Pump + Float switch + Pipe to existing drain
The 105 model from Zoeller has to be used with a laundry tray above the sump pit and has to be vented to open atmosphere! The air admittance valve will do nothing but cause problems with this system! Hooking up the washing machine straight into the tub will also cause problems with short cycling and leaks from the turbulance the washing machine produces! If you have any questions please call Zoeller tech line at 1-800-928-7867 ext 6
Put the sump (one of the smaller Grainger models for example; I would pick the 4RK74) on the floor beside your washing machine. Run your washing machine discharge hose into the sump.
Unless the pump is strong enough to pump the water out as fast as the washer is emptying, the pump's sump had better be large enough to contain the excess or it will overflow. "One of the smaller Grainger models" will not do either.
If you hook the discharge hose directly into the sump on the floor the washer will only fill to the highest level of the discharge hose which will not be high enough to do a full load. It will gravity drain and not wash clothes corectly do to low water. It may continualy run trying to fill and never get there. I have run into this problem with people who have a low washer drain pipe and couldn't figure out why their washer would not do full loads.
Last edited by Cass; 12-08-2005 at 06:15 AM.