Questions about how to repair Moen 8" offset sink faucet (cold side).

At my sister's house, she has a faucet in the bathroom similar to this:

http://www.moen.com/shared/docs/exploded-parts-views/t4570pt.pdf

In a matter of a few days, the cold side has gotten very sloppy and is sort of falling apart. I note it's not leaking yet!

The house is about 6 years old.

Underneath the sink, it looks like a 1/2" CPVC supply line. It's one of those 1/4 turn cut off valves under the sink, it looks like the 1/4 turn valve is on the CPVC via some kind of compression fitting. Then there is a plastic tube with a flare at the top of it in to the cold valve, and the cold valve also has a Moen hydrolock connector going to the spout.

So here's my questions, I've read enough about CPVC to be a little afraid to touch it. I read it becomes brittle and if it cracks, then i'm behind the finished wall trying to fix it. What is the best way to procede here? Should the plastic supply tube be re-used, or are they more one time use?

With the faucet, I can't even figure out how it come's apart! I don't see any set screws or anything on it. I hear rebuilding faucets or replacing cartriges can be really tough with the corrosion, getting them apart and ending up with a good result.

Does anyone have experience with this set up to know how it would be best to proceed? Can you get the whole cold side as an assembly, or only the cartridge for it, and how on earth does it come apart? LOL

It would be great if someone who actually knows what they're doing could help me out! I assume if I was careful I could carefully unbolt the supply tube at the 1/4 turn valve that goes up to the faucet, or is it okay to just break the connection at the cold side faucet at the flare and reuse the supply tube?

Again, house and install is about 6 years old. How long does it take for CPVC to become brittle? I thought I read it does not take too long...

REGARDS,

Lee B.

The Monticellos are known for handle issues. The large "barrel" ( identified as 'hub and elbow') unscrews to remove the handle and access the cartridge if necessary. They are put on hand tight, but late in life may need a strap wrench to loosen. Notice on your parts diagram there are different versions of the handle adapters etc but if you get all new that will be best. Moen ( 1-800-buymoen) may send you parts if you describe yourself as the original owner.

Thanks Jimbo!

Hey, thank you!

I can see what you're saying.

Can anyone else add anything, or answer some of my other questions?

Lee

I doubt if you can get the whole cold side as a part..but not necessary. Once you get the handle off, the small nut will release the cartridge. If there are "issues" underneath, the tube assembly is available as a part. If the cold valve is loose in the sink, you can tighten that up once you get the handle, then the chrome esctcheon off. BE SURE to hold back under the sink on the valve body itself as you tighten the upper nut, or you will twist off the tubes.

Pretty much any available part is identified with a part number on your diagram.

Upon further review from the booth..I notice that the hot and cold valve bodies are listed with part numbers. Very seldom you would need to replace that. But it is apparently out there.

Thank you again!

I also like your idea to call them and see what parts they would offer.

What is the warranty term they extend to the homeowner?

L.

They will offer ANY parts you "need" but YOU have to tell them what you need based on your problem. If it is not leaking, then you probably do NOT need any parts, just tighten the ones you have. What do you mean by "sloppy"? If it loose on the sink you have to tighten the nut, under the sink, holding it in place, there is NO nut on top to tighten with that model. If it is just the handle which is loose, then tighten the "bell handle housing" or the handle into it.

Hi, thank you.

Two issues.

One is, all of a sudden the cold handle is turning too far to shut off.

Two, the handle is sloppy in general moving all around.

The base of it itself seems to still be tightly fastened to the sink base, so if I can get it apart maybe the parts inside just loosened up.

Thank you for the heads up that they will offer any thing that you specifically ask for!

Lee

IF the handle still just rotates 90 degrees but its off position has moved, then the body has rotated in the sink. If it turns MORE than 90 degrees, then the stop in the handle or stem adapter has broken off. Given that the handle is also sloppy, it could be that the handle's insert has failed.

That's what I was trying to articulate, but I failed miserably!

The handle is turning way more than 90% now.

Also, do you know if these flared plastic supply lines are meant to be re-used, or once you make them tight enough the first time not to leak, do tyou have to get a new one? I hadn't thought of this before, but I would think you could use one of those flexible faucet supply hoses between the 1/4 turn valve and the faucet body, the one most plumbers will tell you is not as good as a solid supply line!

Also, LOL @ "Been plumbing a long, long time."

Merry Christmas,

Lee

I, and most plumbers, do NOT use the "plastic hoses". In fact we usually try to remove them whenever possible. The "braided stainless steel" ones, NOT the mylar plastic ones which LOOK like stainless, are the preferred ones for most plumbers. "solid supply lines" have been out of vogue for a long time, except for certain "specialized" applications where the supply lines are visible, and appearance makes a difference. You will NOT know what parts you need for the handle until you remove it and see what is worn or broken. The normal solution for your problem will be a new handle insert and/or stem extension (which is different for the hot or cold side).

Thank you!

I will have to get cracking on this issue...

Lee