please rate my plan of action..... new informed member

Hey all I have moved into a new house from the city into the country, and as you guessed it I need water treatment. I'm a power plant operator by trade so most of these test were done by me. Even before the county did their testing I had planned on getting a 48k softener,1.5 cu ft birm filter, and a POU RO for the quick tap in the kitchen and the feed for the fridge. I planned on using the fleck 7000 control valve for my set-up, and reducing the outlets to 3/4 copper to match the potable water lines. The well pump is a red jacket 1/2 hp 230v model number 50CNSW1-9B, but I can't find a manual or even a pump curve online. did red jacket come up with a new numbering system? The well is approx 93 ft deep and a 60ft drop pipe installed. The incoming poly line is 1 inch that connects to a 1 inch header connected to the pressure switch, gauge, and well x trol 202 pressure tank ( I just replaced this) then up to the 3/4 copper line that runs to the outdoor taps. The potable water lines are further downstream to allow untreated water to still be used for service. I came up with about 22 gpm using the outdoor tap, and about 12 gpm using an upstairs laundry tub. This leads me to believe that where the equipment I should be capable of about 15 gpm. The water turns yellowish if sitting in a container after being filled, which is an iron presence. Also occasionally the water has a slight odor coming out of the tap.... mind you i dnt have hot water on yet this is just the cold tap. But after the water sits and yellows the smell is non-existent. I'm hoping I can stay with a choice of birm due to cost and backwash requirements. If I do choose to use birm and then realize that the smell wont go away could I just dump the birm and refill the tank with filox or terminox?
Im also interested in buying a CSV.... is this similar to the cla-val style of valve that I'm familiar with in my field?

btw Im not sure if this is pc but, ohio pure water is significantly cheaper than clean water or budget water. has anyone dealt with them before?

please critique and give criticism ..... thanks!!!!

Conductivity-787
TDS-547
Fe-1.70 mg/l
NTU-13
Hardness-450ppm or 26 gpg

the following were done by a lab per county inspection
total coilform- absent
nitrate-n not detected
total arsenic-.012 mg/l

i forgot to mention the house has 2 people, 2.5 baths, and a dishwasher

If the smell is H2S (sulfur), them the BIRM will not work. I would find out what the smeel is before buying anything so as to not waste money. If you dump any media, you should know what DLFC is needed for the media you would be replacing it with.

I did a quick test for so3 at work with a samples I collected 3 days ago. the results were less than .1ppm as the sample was already turning purple prior to titration. This leads me to believe ill have to take a fresh sample to test again. I know so3 is not h2s, but sulfur would still show an elevated value. I still believe that the well being out of service for 16 months has caused the issue to begin with. does anyone have thoughts on the issue? btw the ph of the well is 7.2

If you have an odor of H2S, then it hasn't oxidized into SO3 yet and I would not go by SO3 content myself. Run the well off without running the pump dry and do a smell test by running water into a bucket with your nose on the rim smelling for any odor (most times she has a better smeller than us guys).

If H2S, then no to Birm, and IMO I would not use a Birm or other iron filter for only 1.7 ppm of iron. I'd use a correctly sized softener instead. Visit the link in my signature for more on that. For 15 gpm constant SFR you need larger than a 1.5 cuft. For like 34 gpg of compensated hardness (including the iron) you need larger for better salt efficiency too.