(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: How to repair a washing-machine tub (plastic, possibly PVC)

  1. #1
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    Posts
    2,474

    Default How to repair a washing-machine tub (plastic, possibly PVC)

    My wife found the head of a bolt in the drum of our washing machine a couple of days ago, and today I found its origin. The bolt-head had broken off from the hub holding the washer's drum to the center spindle, and that had allowed the drum to spin out-of-true and rub a hole in the outer tub.

    How would you repair this hole? The tub appears to be PVC. I have welded PVC with heat and a filler rod in the past, but that would be difficult to do down inside this tub, and I do not plan on pulling the tub from the machine in order to be able to turn it over.

    I mentioned epoxy to a local appliance repairman, but then he mentioned JB Weld (trademarked).

    What might anyone here have to suggest?
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    "Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events and small minds discuss people." --Eleanor Roosevelt

  2. #2
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Yakima WA
    Posts
    7,246

    Default

    I think JBW is just an epoxy. If replacing the broken bolt has the cause of the problem cured, and the only remaining problem is to seal the hole, I would give the epoxy a shot.

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member LOTW's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Iowa/Ontario
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Do you have enough clearance between the "dry" side of the tub and the "innards" of the washing machine to insert a very short stainless steel or plastic carriage or flush head screw or bolt into the hole? Or maybe insert a short bolt into the tub from the "dry" side and cap it with a cover to limit clothes tangling and finger smashing? If this would work and you used a heavy duty sealant it may be better than just epoxy, etc.

  4. #4
    DIY Member Hardt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Bondo might work, also. Besides auto body repair, I've used it on dry wood termite repair. Never tried it on pvc, however. It's strong stuff and sandable unlike epoxy.

  5. #5
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Land of Cheese
    Posts
    3,150

    Default

    The first question I would ask myself is what will be damaged if sometime in the future the repair fails? The washer will fill and refill until someone notices it is leaking. If it's in the basement next to the sump pit, no big deal. If it's anywhere else, it could be costly.

    I see used wash machines all over for $100-$200 that might be just as good of an option.

  6. #6
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,653

    Default

    Check with the manufacturer. Plastic tubs in washing machines and dishwashers often have a VERY extended warranty, just because they are so fragile.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  7. #7
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,650

    Default

    It is hard to get any Glue to stick strong to that type of Polymer.

    JB WaterWeldŽ may be worth a try as it can be formed and can fill a hole better than plain epoxy.
    It is also made to be under water.

    You would have better luck if you could put it on both sides, and cover a large area for better adhesion. (Rough it up with sandpaper before hand)

    It looks like a good size area is very thin near that whole.
    Last edited by DonL; 12-14-2011 at 05:01 PM.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  8. #8
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    Posts
    2,474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    The first question I would ask myself is what will be damaged if sometime in the future the repair fails? The washer will fill and refill until someone notices it is leaking. If it's in the basement next to the sump pit, no big deal. If it's anywhere else, it could be costly ...
    This machine sits on the slab at a corner of the house, and most of the leaking water had drained on out under a wall. However, I might try to find a pan to place underneath and then run a drain line on out in case this ever happens again.

    Quote Originally Posted by LOTW View Post
    Do you have enough clearance between the "dry" side of the tub and the "innards" of the washing machine to insert a very short stainless steel or plastic carriage or flush head screw or bolt into the hole? Or maybe insert a short bolt into the tub from the "dry" side and cap it with a cover to limit clothes tangling and finger smashing? If this would work and you used a heavy duty sealant it may be better than just epoxy, etc.
    I will be off to the hardware store this morning, and I have been thinking the same kind of thing ... possibly an elevator bolt with an o-ring under its head, and then epoxy to help assure a tight seal. I suspect there is about 1/2" clearance between the fixed drum and the rotatable tub, and that clearance should remain consistent after I replace the broken hub bolt that had allowed the drum to run like a tilt-a-whirl ... but then whatever repair I make must still be able to stand against a hard uni-directional flow of water every time the drum spins.
    Last edited by leejosepho; 12-15-2011 at 04:20 AM.
    "Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events and small minds discuss people." --Eleanor Roosevelt

  9. #9
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    Posts
    2,474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    It is hard to get any Glue to stick strong to that type of Polymer.
    I was afraid of that! I will do a bit of testing to see what might stick best, and I might try some of this 3M 5200: http://www.3m.com/product/informatio...e-Sealant.html

    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    It looks like a good size area is very thin near that whole.
    What you actually see there is material from the bottom of the drum, and then the hole appeared in the tub after the friction-welded spot broke apart. Since the drum has a thicker wall than the tub, the more-flexible tub lost no material in the incident (other than right at the hole).

    @hj: The warranty on this machine expired last month just before the dryer belt jumped its track ... and now this!
    Last edited by leejosepho; 12-15-2011 at 04:15 AM.
    "Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events and small minds discuss people." --Eleanor Roosevelt

  10. #10
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Cave Creek, Arizona
    Posts
    25,653

    Default

    How about a make and model? The plastic tub could have a different warranty than the rest of the machine.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  11. #11
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    Posts
    2,474

    Default

    Frigidaire (Electrolux) Product No. GLET1031CSO
    Base Model No. GLET1031C

    My wife and I got it at some kind of sale at a box store in November of last year, and we did not purchase the extended warranty ... and as far as I can tell, this w/d combo unit is no longer in production.
    "Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events and small minds discuss people." --Eleanor Roosevelt

  12. #12
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,405

    Default

    When I was in the Army, we often used a two-part compound designed for sealing gas tanks. It was waterproof, and chemical resistant to most things, and it stuck to anything. This is an industrial chemical, stunk horribly until it cured, but boy did it stick and seal things up! There may be a consumer version that is available, just never looked for it.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  13. #13
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    When I was in the Army, we often used a two-part compound designed for sealing gas tanks. It was waterproof, and chemical resistant to most things, and it stuck to anything. This is an industrial chemical, stunk horribly until it cured, but boy did it stick and seal things up! There may be a consumer version that is available, just never looked for it.
    Give the name up !!!

    I want some...

    P.S. Normally if something works good , It is Not Available to a end user / consumer.
    Last edited by DonL; 12-15-2011 at 06:52 AM.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

  14. #14
    DIY scratch-pad engineer leejosepho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    200 miles south of Little Rock
    Posts
    2,474

    Default

    Here is where we ended up on this one. The closest I could get to an elevator bolt came from some bolts for flat-pack furniture. I had thought about a toilet-tank bolt and washer, but shied away from their overall height. The excess part of the thin faucet washer I used seems to indicate there is still some rubber under the bolt's head, and I carefully selected this particular "Gasket Dressing And Flange Sealant" after discovering all my others were too old to use anyway. To hopefully keep all of this from happening again, I replaced both hub bolts with some grade-8s and found the loosest spot on the spindle where the hub will be least-likely to slip.

    I will let you all know if I begin seeing blue specks in my underwear ...
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by leejosepho; 12-15-2011 at 10:13 AM.
    "Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events and small minds discuss people." --Eleanor Roosevelt

  15. #15
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,650

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by leejosepho View Post
    I will let you all know if I begin seeing blue specks in my underwear ...
    Very Good work.

    But them specks will most likely be Brown... LOL.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

    Cyber Security Protection for Windows C:\ > WWW.WinForce.Net

Similar Threads

  1. Washing machine smelling
    By Valve in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-06-2008, 05:49 AM
  2. New Washing Machine
    By Barneyn in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-20-2007, 12:07 PM
  3. smelly washing machine
    By handsrusinkc in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-09-2005, 04:11 AM
  4. Washing Machine Rough-In.
    By ygdron in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-15-2005, 04:42 PM
  5. Moving washing machine...
    By HamrHead in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-09-2005, 07:22 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •