Better just to leave out BV2, and not worry about a pressure relief valve. Use double jacketed wire and you won't need stand offs or 1/2" poly conduit.
The check valve on the submersible will keep water from going that direction and all water from the hand pump will go to the pressure tank. (If you let a lot of air out of the pressure tank)
That is good wire. I like the round jacketed better like THHN. But it is not rated to work with submersibles. Works great though if you don't have to go by some code. I have run a million miles of it in wells with no problems.
Only issue being that his pumping will have to pressurize the entire system before anything hits the tank, so might need a 800 pound gorilla or a 80 pound chinese slave to do that.
Second, won't an 85 gallon tank with a CSV keep the pump running about forever? Seems like he could lose the csv or change the tank.
Or could one add enough air to the tank so that it only takes on a few gallons of water?
OK. I've been leaning toward poly pipe, but it might be cheaper for me to do PVC because poly pipe seems to only come in 100' and 300' rolls. My drop pipe will be about 125'-130' long. I can use 50' or so to run to the house, but don't need to run 200 PSI pipe to my irrigation. So I really don't have a use for about 1/3 of the 300' roll. Don't really want to have the poly drop pipe in 2 sections if I can avoid it. Any body have a source for a 200' roll of good 200 PSI poly drop pipe?
There also seems to be different grades of 200 PSI poly pipe (1.25"). Look at THIS (bottom of page) and THIS. One is $690 per 300' roll and one is $249 per 200' roll. Is there much difference between the two? I assume there is.
Not sure about the logic of the 85 gallon tank either. Murphy conspires to kill the power just as the pump is about to kick-in so the drawdown may be minimal.
demand is less than the CSV's min flow rate of 1 gpm. I have low flow drip irrigation, potentially leaky float valves on animal watering, etc. The large tank was suggested by the extremely helpful CSV folks.
I live in North Alabama and most of North Alabama was out of power for over a week after this year's April 27th storms knocked out a nuclear power plant. Large areas of North Alabama still have not fully recovered -- there are miles and miles of forest where almost every tree is laid flat on the ground. Water never went out in our area, but there were warnings to conserve. Water did go out in some places. We got by fine with a small borrowed gas generator and some kerosene cooking stoves. I now have a diesel generator with a big, full tank and a transfer switch with a 20 amp breaker waiting for the well pump to be installed. Call me paranoid, but in an extended outage situation, I don't ever want to be without water for my family and livestock.
Hand pumping into the pressure tank is much more convenient than pumping into a bucket and does not require any electricity (i.e., diesel fuel). If I just let a lot of air out of the pressure tank, I should be able to pump into it fine -- up to 5 GPM and 50 PSI according to the hand pump manufacturer. They have a longer 3' pump lever arm to make it easier.
Not all poly pipe is approved for potable water. You need to confirm it is approved unless it is for irrigation use only.
Last edited by cacher_chick; 12-15-2011 at 03:35 PM.
LOL... ballvalve does like to exaggerate with an 85 gallon tank keeping the pump running about forever, but then the water tower analogy probably would keep the pump running about forever at 1 GPM. Of course I assume you would spec a different size CSV for the water tower.
My question was based on the fact that the 85 gallon tank with around 25 gallons of drawdown means that the constant pressure will be delayed by 25 gallons. I understand now that reduced cycling is the primary objective and not constant pressure.
To address ballvalve's logic, a trickle draw of 1/2 GPM will after 50 minutes from pump kick-out, turn on the pump and the pump would then run for 75 minutes, assuming no other water use in that 125 minute time frame. In the real world, there would likely be other water use, so that is worst case.
Note that this is a 60/80 system with a 60 PSI pressure regulator after the tank so that there is constant pressure all the time.Thanks for clarifying my point. If so, thats a huge run time. And now we hear that there is a regulator, so the CSV has been fairly nullified, unless he has a lot of irrigation, it would seem.To address ballvalve's logic, a trickle draw of 1/2 GPM will after 50 minutes from pump kick-out, turn on the pump and the pump would then run for 75 minutes, assuming no other water use in that 125 minute time frame. In the real world, there would likely be other water use, so that is worst case.
160 psi pipe is plenty for your well, and you go to the mechanical supplier house who cuts off your footage for about 89 cents a foot.
You cant beat physics with a longer lever, but you can move the earth with a long enough one. Longer lever just means more time for your gorilla. But I agree its a good idea to have a source of water from a well in case of extended power outages.
Damn cheaper than a smelly gym and produces something.
Supplier said not to run poly underground. Not sure why. I would kind of like to run it underground because of better freeze protection than PVC. Any idea why he would say not to run poly underground from the well to the house underground? Was gonna use it for 500' of irrigation main line too (2 pastures, barn animal water and hydrants, large drip irrigated garden and green houses and eventually a small orchard, etc).
I do still want to use an 1/8" stainless safety cable. Where do I attach the safety cable at the top? Attach to the pitless somehow?