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Thread: Low water pressure...pressure switch bad?

  1. #16
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jed1154 View Post
    What do you mean 'have enough wire'?

    I am taking off the old pressure switch, putting a T on the old nipple. Off teh side of that T I am putting a NEW pressure gauge and then putting the new pressure switch on top again. I should have enough wire for that.

    Thanks for the help! Ill try to do this tonight. I bet the nipple is dirty. My well pumps a fair bit of sand, requiring me to have a spindown/vuflow filter and clean it out monthly. It may have finally succumbed to that.

    Many times the switch is connected using Conduit, make the switch a bit harder to move.

    I normally just get rid of OLD , 10 years is a long time for most stuff to work. (Wife not included)
    Repairing Anything 10 years or older , is a temporary fix. But it can be done.

    To keep the pump from cycling as often you might want to check this site.

    http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html

    I Don't use enough water to justify the need.


    I know one thing, If Momma is not Happy, No one is happy. The Girls like their showers. Men do too.

    I bet she is ready for you to get it fixed. (You may need a good shower after the reward she gives You..)

    Good Luck on Your project.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  2. #17
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    Ja, and a royal PITA for an abnormal person like me which was why I went with the EPS Cary shows in the picture.

    That is exactly why I made a block of wood, with a hole drilled in it for that shaft.

    If you can hold that lever until the pump comes up to 20 PSI, You have a dent in your finger.
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  3. #18
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DonL View Post
    That is exactly why I made a block of wood, with a hole drilled in it for that shaft.

    If you can hold that lever until the pump comes up to 20 PSI, You have a dent in your finger.
    It's not the dent in my finger, it is the nagging in my ear when I try to explain to the wife over the phone how to hold that little lever.

    I just slip a nut driver over the lever like a mini cheater pipe.

  4. #19
    Jack of all trades DonL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    It's not the dent in my finger, it is the nagging in my ear when I try to explain to the wife over the phone how to hold that little lever.

    I just slip a nut driver over the lever like a mini cheater pipe.

    I did exactly the same thing until I made the wood block. For my Wife of coarse.

    If you use " square wood , You can drill the Hole so that you don't have to hold the lever.

    Then when it comes up to pressure the wood just stays on the lever.

    It defeats the reason for the lever, If you leave in on there, But makes it easier for the wife to restart it.

    Works good. I painted my wood and marked it "Water Pump"
    Theory only works perfect in a vacuum.

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  5. #20
    DIY Member jed1154's Avatar
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    OK guys...Im confused now:

    This is what I got:

    http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SQU...e-Switch-2FH08

    My switch however that is on there is a '30/50' according to the label underneath. However, unless my pressure gauge is 10psi off, it most definately cuts off at 60psi and cuts on at 30-35....which used to be 40.

    I ASSUME the installer orders a ton of 30/50 and simply adjusts them out to avoid buying multiple kinds of switches.

    At any rate, will my new pressure switch work for my setup?

  6. #21
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    To adjust a 30/50 switch to 40/60, simply turn the large adjustment screw three full turns clockwise.

  7. #22
    DIY Member jed1154's Avatar
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    I dont need to adjust it. I just got the 40/60 preset one. My question is, is the one I bought correct for my application?

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  9. #24
    General Engineering Contractor ballvalve's Avatar
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    Seems to me if everyone put in a 3/4 or 1" x 12 riser to the pressure switch, and reduces just at the end, no sediment would ever make it to the entrance port of the switch.

  10. #25
    DIY Member jed1154's Avatar
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    True, but even a taller 1/4" riser should accomplish the same thing, to a lesser extent. My unit pumps sand....if it was not doing that, it wouldn't be an issue though.

  11. #26
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    In my case, it was minerals, not sediment and it didn't plug the entrance port, it built up under the diaphragm which limited the range of motion.

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