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Many times the switch is connected using Conduit, make the switch a bit harder to move.
I normally just get rid of OLD , 10 years is a long time for most stuff to work. (Wife not included)
Repairing Anything 10 years or older , is a temporary fix. But it can be done.
To keep the pump from cycling as often you might want to check this site.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html
I Don't use enough water to justify the need.
I know one thing, If Momma is not Happy, No one is happy. The Girls like their showers. Men do too.
I bet she is ready for you to get it fixed. (You may need a good shower after the reward she gives You..)
Good Luck on Your project.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
I did exactly the same thing until I made the wood block. For my Wife of coarse.
If you use ¾ " square wood , You can drill the Hole so that you don't have to hold the lever.
Then when it comes up to pressure the wood just stays on the lever.
It defeats the reason for the lever, If you leave in on there, But makes it easier for the wife to restart it.
Works good. I painted my wood and marked it "Water Pump"
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
OK guys...Im confused now:
This is what I got:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SQU...e-Switch-2FH08
My switch however that is on there is a '30/50' according to the label underneath. However, unless my pressure gauge is 10psi off, it most definately cuts off at 60psi and cuts on at 30-35....which used to be 40.
I ASSUME the installer orders a ton of 30/50 and simply adjusts them out to avoid buying multiple kinds of switches.
At any rate, will my new pressure switch work for my setup?
To adjust a 30/50 switch to 40/60, simply turn the large adjustment screw three full turns clockwise.
I dont need to adjust it. I just got the 40/60 preset one. My question is, is the one I bought correct for my application?
"9013FSG" Yes
Seems to me if everyone put in a 3/4 or 1" x 12 riser to the pressure switch, and reduces just at the end, no sediment would ever make it to the entrance port of the switch.
True, but even a taller 1/4" riser should accomplish the same thing, to a lesser extent. My unit pumps sand....if it was not doing that, it wouldn't be an issue though.
In my case, it was minerals, not sediment and it didn't plug the entrance port, it built up under the diaphragm which limited the range of motion.
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