Heres a LED bulb for $8.99.... try one and report back
http://www.1000bulbs.com/?utm_source...Bing_PPC_Brand
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What is a rep? Are you abbreviating representative without the period?
What are "swicthes"? Some new type of switch?
Why did you use an apostrophe like this.......LED's. Is that correct grammer?
The rules for apostrophes vary with the type of word. Learn where to put apostrophes so that your writing is clear and correct. In short, apostrophes are frequently used to indicate possession and in contractions, but never to pluralize.
Last edited by Hackney plumbing; 04-05-2012 at 02:19 PM.
Heres a LED bulb for $8.99.... try one and report back
http://www.1000bulbs.com/?utm_source...Bing_PPC_Brand
This Program has a doubler glitch.
Heres a LED bulb for $8.99.... try one and report back
http://www.1000bulbs.com/?utm_source...Bing_PPC_Brand
Also, here is the ONLY timer left on the market at a good price thats NOT digital crap. Made in germany: http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3380/ELEC-GM40.html
Last edited by ballvalve; 04-11-2012 at 01:41 PM.
I still have and use at least one old Intermatic timer that is all mechanical, plus the clock motor and the micro switches actuated by those metal pices that clamp to the wheel. Had them before 1987, but that's when I put them into use. Still work, and they are outdoors only in their own raintite enclosures.
I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator
CFLs are four times more efficient and last up to 10 times longer than incandescents. A 22 watt CFL has about the same light output as a 100 watt incandescent. CFLs use 50 - 80% less energy than incandescents.
My bad on the apostrophe. I know better than that but I was careless. Rep for "representative", is a noun, not necessarily in the OED, but widely accepted in trade circles without the period. The switch, if I understood him correctly, is a bimetallic, something like what might be found inside a thermostat. It is a physical switch which is either conducting..or INFINITE ohms. Electronic switches do not "snap" open to closed in the same manner, and very typically have leakage current even when the light should be "off". Devices with electronic drivers, like CFL and LED , do not respond well to such leakage currents.
LIFE CYCLE. The industry standard measure of the life-hours for a product is to put 10,000 items in a room. Subject them to whatever is considered the "normal" off/on cycles, possibly accelerating the cycles. At the point where exactly HALF the bulbs have stopped working, THAT is the listed hour lifetime for that model.
A rep from American Fluorescent recently explained to me that it is a little different with LEDs. The element may run 30 years + and still be putting out light. But the elements do get dimmer as time goes by. Up to the stated life...let's say an item is an 8 year rated LED....the brightness is nearly the same as brand new. But then as further time goes by, it will get dimmer and after a certain period of time will be considered unsatisfactory, and that is when you replace it.
Yes, I do get to meet a lot of "reps" .. Long story.
I still have incandescent bulbs that have lasted much longer than these GE CFLs in the same room.
When a incandescent gos bad it gets brighter, for a split second. I have even heard them sing.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
Don't pay someone to do a job fast, when you can do a half-fast job yourself.
The major manufacturers warrant their CFL bulbs for the stated life...typically 6000 to 8000 hours. You should be able to return those to place of purchase.
And apparently this thread will last 5 years, even if the bulbs don't!
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