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Thread: which waterproofing system for new shower?

  1. #61
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Licquid membranes work fine...personally, I think it's easier to ensure you don't have a pinhole leak with a sheet membrane. Whatever floats your boat. If you're worried you can't do a decent job, then a conventional shower may be better, or just a fiberglass enclosure - one-piece, therefore no seams. Course there's ways to mess that up, too...lousy connection to the drain, inadequate floor install so it flexes and eventually cracks, but hey...truly, and I'm being as honest as I can here, any system properly installed works. Kerdi goes up like a big sheet of wallpaper. I think it's faster and tougher than a paint/roll on membrane. Pick your poison, do it properly, and don't lose sleep over it.

    Any system, improperly installed will leak, often for a long time before the evidence is obvious. Once the tile is up, it is really hard to tell. That's why you test things first and hopefully have good work practices.

    Some people swear on Chevys, some on Ford, some on Toyota...they each have their strong points and will get you from point A to point B. In the big picture, does it really matter?
    Last edited by jadnashua; 12-18-2011 at 09:07 AM.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013

  2. #62
    Barrier Free Showers johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL43 View Post
    I tore out 2 sheetrocked showers years ago, that my builder did when the house was built. it was not a pretty sight. The good thing: the sheetrocked pulled off by hand REAL easy. Of course back then there were no waterproofing systems, other than what a craftsman had (not many did, I guess). The 2 I built to replace those both have Durock or hardibacker with 6 mil poly between the cement board and the studs. 22 years so far, still like new.
    Third bathroom has no shower, just a clawfoot tub with a hand shower to use while bathing. This one is still my current project. I don't get the impression that John'm main point is to say bad things about Schluter, but to point out other, maybe better options. Having great stuff to work with over sheetrock maybe fantastic, but if you get a bunch of handymen building showers with sheetrock and not applying all that great waterproofing system stuff exactly as specified carefully, the sheetrock will get wet, mold, fall apart long before a poorly crafted cement backer board one will. Both will be no good from the beginning, but one will last far longer. I like to at least try to use the good stuff, and give it my best work, and follow advice.

    We all have our own opinions of everything.

    I appreciate All the great advice the pros give here, but ultimately, it is "Internet" advice and my work not personally supervised by a professional crew. So far, I've done very well from what I gained here at Terry's, and from the JB tiling forum. Both are really great sites; perhaps Terry's is the very best (it is).
    Bob I have built a lot of showers with Kerdi. You can use it very successfully in bathroom builds. I do harp on the one company a lot because many users of the product give out poor installation advice or sluff off the manufacture's instructions.

    I have found after years of building showers that you can not pick one product and say this is the be all and end all. Schluter targets the masses and offers up "Simple, Easy, and Quick" methods. This is what you want to here. You do not want to hear that hanging sheet membrane is tricky. You do not want to hear that a shower needs to be flood tested. You do not want to hear that cement board is heavy and the screws are $20.00.

    What I want people to understand is that this procedure of building a shower is not as easy as building a closet organizer and that there is a lot more to consider. I see junked bathrooms every week hitting the dump site. Brand new floors, brand new tile - maybe 2-3 years old at most. It is a silly waste of products.

    This debate with Jim has shed a lot of light on the use of drywall in showers. Why Jim pushes a procedure like this makes no sense to me and only furthers my belief that he in fact works for either Schluter Systems or John Bridge Tile Forum. I would rather Jim comment on his favourite membrane and it's install with cement board and non-modifed thin set.

    This exact debate send me back to my building department and made me re-check with both the TTMAC, ANSI, NTCA as well as speak directly to Schluter's top tech.

    Drywall is only listed as an acceptable backer - this does not mean you should use it in a shower build. Never in a curb and the reasons are many. If you spent your life working around job sites and playing with wood you would realize that wood swells, it moves and it checks. Most builders do not add any extra blocking on the top and bottom plates. This step is labour intensive and not required by code. That and the plumber, HVAC guy, electrical, vaccum installer, low voltage dude and the like will all bitch about the extra blocking. That said this blocking does wonders for keeping the studs straight. Preventing twisitng and warping.

    We all have seen popped drywall screws before. Results caused by warping, twisiting, drying and such. Drywall offers up little protection from this effect. Solid blocking can keep those wall studs straight. Cement board vs drywall is night and day. A stud will not twist free from a cement board screw but can from a drywall screw. Think about it.

    I use a lot of Green EBoard in my showers. I cleared this board with my local building inspector and love working with it. That said it is bio degradable - this worries me some since how can a board that bio degrades work in a shower. For this reason we waterproof the floor and walls. Water does not see the board at all. Much like a kerdi shower with drywall. The difference is that the Green EBoard is way stronger than drywall and their is no paper face to delaminate during tiling.

    Often a tile chips or a client prefers the grain of one tile switched. With cement board, Wonder board, Super panel and Green EBoard I have no fear busting out the hammer and screw driver and banging that tile out and replacing it. With drywall or a foam based board the process is much less likely to be executed without damage to the drywall or foam board. Yes the use of foam boards and drywall is easier - but not better.

    Our skilled trades are aging, The average age of a skilled trade in North America right now I believe 58. These products designed for men with bad knees, bad backs or for the commercial crew wanting to bang out 7-10 installs a day. What we get in our local neighborhood depends on so many factors. Many of us forced to shop at box stores and this is quite scary.

    The best thing anyone can do is their homework. Look this stuff up. Call your building department. If you are hiring a crew specify that industry standars be followed. Simple lines in your emails like "All work to conform with the latest edition of ANSI or TTMAC guidelines" will protect you from those not properly trained or not following industry standards.

    If you want to "Flip" a home and don't care if it is do right or how long it will last then "Shame on you". I can not tell you how many times a meeting has resulted in tears from a young family when I tell them the entire shower has to come out. A young family who can barley afford their new home and now is faced with a total redo of the shower. It's sad and wrong.

    As a new homeowner you should check that a newly renovated home had permits. Check if a flood test was done. Check if a damp proofing inspection was done. If it was newly renovated to flip add a clause in your home sale to say if the shower was not built to local building codes the owner is responsible for upgrades. Then do an inspection from the back side. Look for proper install methods.

    I often get accused of "Hating" Schluter - I don't. The simple fact that I point out these false claims does not sit well with many tile men and builders. Schluter has changed their specs so many times over the past 12 years it is hard to keep up. Many tile me are told by their local rep they can do this and that but in fact the printed instructions differ. Tell a man to re-check and he can get pissed off. Again it is so easy to confirm my words. Call Schluter and ask for your local rep's number. Ask him for an email stating it is OK to use drywall and modified thinsets. See what he says. You will find that what is giving by email and what is said in person is often two different things, so be careful. I do not care for this and find that often I'm dealing with a "Salesman" and not a "Tradesman". I prefer talking with the techs and the building inspectors - these are the people who know what works, what doesn't and do you really want your information from someone who makes their living "Selling a Product".

    I don't.

    JW

    Building a shower is so different every time but the same principles come into play.

    Deflection of the floor and walls.
    Time line of the install.
    Tile and setting materials you wish to use.
    "When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER

    Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com

  3. #63
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    John, are you incapable of reading the links that we've posted 100 times now? How can you still honestly claim that Schluter doesn't allow drywall?

    Look back, everyone reading this, at JW's own post of Dale, the top tech at Schluter's input on this. DRYWALL IS ABSOLUTELY PERMITTED IN SHOWER INSTALLS USING KERDI WATERPROOFING. This is FACT, 100%, INDISPUTABLE unless you choose to IGNORE all of the stuff that JW keeps claiming to be following.

    Again, I'll say, if JW would just give up on making crap up, ignoring all the evidence, all the facts, etc, and just state why he prefers what he considers better construction methods, I'd be fine. I have no problem with most systems (I don't like RedGuard much, but otherwise...) if they're installed properly. Properly as regards Kerdi is over drywall or CBU. You can choose whichever you prefer, but don't come on here spouting crap that is blatantly false and confusing everyone.

    If anyone hasn't figured it out yet, this is the truth of the matter: Drywall is permitted behind Kerdi in a shower. If you don't like it (as JW clearly doesn't), then don't use it, but know that it is permitted both by Schluter and by the testing agencies. Use the proper specified thinset with whatever system you use. Simple as that.

    I, for one, won't follow someone's advice (regardless of how many years of experience they have) that refuses to read or believe any official certifications presented to him and continues to spread his opinions with lies of them being supported by all the associations. That is not a good start to a professional's advice.

    You do what you like. The way John says to install a shower is also correct. You won't go wrong doing it his way. But don't believe his crap that the manufacturers recommended methods are both not approved by the manufacturer (yeah, still scratching my head how he can make that claim...) and not allowed by all the testing agencies (which we've seen proof of the opposite).

  4. #64
    Barrier Free Showers johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtcummins View Post
    ...How can you still honestly claim that Schluter doesn't allow drywall? ...
    I never said that. I said Schluter does allow drywall but the ANSI and TTMAC don't allow it in showers. Do you not have a copy of the new ANSI Specifications?

    An ICS report has nothing to do with building codes. It is a privately purchased evaluation to be used to obtain an IAPMO certification. An IAPMO certification is needed to get and ANSI 118.1 classification - this classification needed for shower pan liners.

    The ANSI and TTMAC are the industry leaders in the tile setting industry. The TTMAC for Canada and the ANSI for USA. In these specification guides that most government, architectural firms and professional tile installation companies follow their printed guidelines.

    In the specifications for showers Drywall is not listed. At all. Drywall is listed in dry areas.

    Schluter had their product tested with drywall and is the only company I know endorsing the use of it. Schluter lists drywall as acceptable in showers if covered with Kerdi. Schluter also list drywall as an acceptable material for shower curbs (if covered with Kerdi) but this is a very poor building practice - even worse than using drywall as a backer board.

    The IRC building code is very loose in their description as to what a shower backer should be. Because of this one could possibly get a drywall shower passed inspection if it is covered by Kerdi if you fall into the IRC catchment and no local code restricts it like here in Vancouver.

    Kerdi should be installed over a solid backer board, like cement board or hardi board. We have always used Hardie Board or Wonder Board on our Kerdi projects. To use drywall is just plain reckless I think. Or cheap. Both really. Of course if you want to improve your backsplash backer behind your stove or sink you really not worry about that. Ensure that anywhere Kerdi is to applied over drywall that the drywall mudding compound is not used - since thin set does not attach to it.
    "When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER

    Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com

  5. #65
    Homeowner geniescience's Avatar
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    thinset won't stick to drywall compound. Good point!

    Does Schluter write a lot of tips about this? I think not. Schluter is the one who is leaving things out, and running fast and footloose.

    I cannot imagine Schluter writing that one might put drywall on a curb and then thinset kerdi to that surface. Drywall should not be used to bear weight. Especially not dynamic weight. But if John has found that Schluter has written it somewhere, I'll believe John because he has always been determined and thorough.

    Bottom line: Kerdi is a lot of work. Other membraning systems are very very good.

  6. #66
    Barrier Free Showers johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Shluter does list drywall for curbs but when I asked Dale if he recommends it he said no and recommend a Kerdi Curb instead.

    Dale (Dale Kempster - Schluter tech) as mentioned that a latex primer can be used over drywall. Not a latex paint primer but a latex primer from Mapei or Custom.

    It's best to not have the drywall compound at all.

    If you visit Schluter's web site and then the FAQ section you will find some more information on this subject.


    "Q. Can I install Schluter-KERDI over drywall in my tiled shower?

    A. Yes. Once you install Schluter-KERDI over the drywall panels, they will be completely protected from the water and vapor in your tiled shower.


    Q. I’m installing Schluter-KERDI over drywall in my shower. Do I need to tape the joints between panels before installing the KERDI?

    A. No. It is not necessary to tape the joints between drywall panels before installing Schluter-KERDI. If you must tape the joints per fire code requirements, make sure to apply a latex primer over the taped joints before installing KERDI. Joint compound can be water soluble and should be protected from the moisture in the thin-set mortar used to install KERDI."


    *Source

    In most fire wall set ups we find here in Vancouver the fireboard is 5/8" drywall and then this is covered with another layer of 1/2" drywall. This second layer if Kerdi is to be applied should be left untouched by drywall compound.

    A product like Planicrete AC is an excellent primer and can do a great job of prepping drywall for thin set applications. How well it preforms over drywall compound (joint & lite finish) is open for debate. Here is the data sheet on Panicrete AC. Once you read the data sheet you will understand the proper use for Panicrete AC - no where does it state drywall. So once again you enter this endless loop. Schluter does not make a drywall primer. Dale recommends primers from Custom or Mapei. Mapei does not recommend this for Kerdi over drywall since their product is not recommended for drywall in showers. Round and round you go.

    Any way you look at it there is no way to follow all guidelines layout by these different companies.

    Custom and Mapei do not recommend drywall in showers nor do they list it as an acceptable backerboard for either Red Guard or Aqua Defence



    JW

    Quote Originally Posted by geniescience View Post
    thinset won't stick to drywall compound. Good point!

    Does Schluter write a lot of tips about this? I think not. Schluter is the one who is leaving things out, and running fast and footloose.

    I cannot imagine Schluter writing that one might put drywall on a curb and then thinset kerdi to that surface. Drywall should not be used to bear weight. Especially not dynamic weight. But if John has found that Schluter has written it somewhere, I'll believe John because he has always been determined and thorough.

    Bottom line: Kerdi is a lot of work. Other membraning systems are very very good.
    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    If you chose Kerdi, their recommended wall covering is drywall, larger sheets, fewer joints, cheaper.....
    Jim here is the list of recommend backer boards for Kerdi. Drywall is only one option and no where do they single out drywall as their preferred backer board.

    * Gypsum wallboard – ASTM C1396/C1396M
    * Cementitious backer unit – ANSI A118.9 or ASTM C1325
    * Fiber-cement underlayment – ASTM C1288
    * Fiber-reinforced water-resistant gypsum backerboard/underlayment – ASTM C1278
    * Coated glass mat water-resistant gypsum backerboard – ASTM C1178 Portland cement mortar – ANSI A108.1B Concrete Masonry



    Jim here on John Bridge's site there is little information http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=27912 This is the number one link when searching "Does thin set stick to drywall?" Perhaps you could mention using a primer or removing the compound on John's site?

    Jim here on john Bridge's site you recommend using Red Guard over drywall. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=40497 Redguard does not list drywall as an acceptable backer board. Red Guard Data Sheet. Then like now you go on to recommend Kerdi everywhere.

    Jim on this thread you mention drywall and kerdi and say "Basically, while code generally says you can't use drywall in a wet area, since the sheet membrane is waterproof when installed properly, the drywall technically and practically, isn't in a wet area." http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=47133 That is like saying a pool is not a wet area because under the tile is waterproofing. A shower at least in Canada is typically a "Wet Area".

    Jim here on John Bridge's site the poster is told thin set will hold just fine to drywall compound http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=14164

    Really does seem to be hit or miss with the quality of info on this subject.

    Could you update these threads for me? It would be good to link back to this one since here we have the most current information.

    Thanks.

    Looking over the data sheet on Hydro Ban it list drywall for interior applications as an acceptable backer board. I did call my rep and he said not to use it in a shower as it does not conform to industry standards. I'll look into this more and speak with Latecrete's home office and see what another employee with the company says about this.


    JW

    Survey update; February 8, 2012
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 02-10-2012 at 05:48 AM.
    "When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER

    Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com

  7. #67
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    The report I referenced listed those backers, and I listed them, but didn't include their certifications. I've also said that pick the backer that makes you happy and has been approved for the system and then sleep well, but also that it has been tested and proven to work with drywall. The Kerdi membrane with the layer of thinset underneath and on top, then, plus the tile on the surface is at least as sturdy as the foam kerb, if not stronger. If you don't feel comfortable about it, use one of the other approved backers over your solid wood curb, or use concrete blocks, or the foam. Unless you end up with a water problem, and if you build the shower properly that shouldn't happen, the wood won't swell. Now, if your wood was left out in the rain for ages, or the roof wasn't installed for awhile, then all of the framing could be suspect and it's moisture content excessive and you could have problems. It's not a good idea to use pressure treated, either, unless it is KDAT (kiln dried after treatment) stuff (which is hard to find, but is available).

    Most of the people looking here are DIY'ers, modifying a house to either add or replace a shower. In this case, the house is covered, and they're probably buying many of their materials at a big box store that, hopefully, has stuff that won't sit out in the rain on new construction while the place is being closed in. Drywall works, as do the other listed products, and when installed properly, will remain dry with their full strength and integrity. Every situation is different, so pick your products to match your situation. Installing Kerdi is only a little more rigerous than installing wallpaper except you need to cover the seams and there's no patterns to align, so you can be a little sloppier since it will be covered with your decorative tile layer. You don't want bubbles or excess lumps of the adhesive (in this case thinset). Not that hard to do if you understand what's required, and quite reliable.

    Re John Bridge's site, just like here, there is a combination of pros who tile every day and DIY'ers asking and answering questions. There are lots more pro tilers there that regularly monitor and respond to questions, and if something is contrary to best practices, it's usually corrected quickly. Just like any free advice, you need to filter it. They do not, generally, delete responses, so finding one that is incorrect isn't that rare. Finding an incorrect one that has not been corrected, is rare.

    There's been an implied statement the I am being paid by Schluter...if so, I'd like to know where that money went, as I've never seen it!
    Last edited by jadnashua; 12-18-2011 at 07:54 PM. Reason: spelling error
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013

  8. #68
    Homeowner geniescience's Avatar
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    No money is changing hands, to make you a paid Schluter-ite. That's my take on it. The best promoters are unpaid, as they are believers. Over the years you've been happy to write time and again all that the JB forum and Schluter have been leading you to think. The JB forum is not all that pure. Schluter marketing people know what the JB forum is up to. I've written about it before and we can build that discussion again.

  9. #69
    Barrier Free Showers johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    The report I referenced listed those backers, and I listed them, but didn't include their certifications....
    Actually Jim you list those later after I said drywall was a bad idea.

    You keep quoting the TCNA guidelines are you referring to detail "Solid Backing Bonded Waterproof Membrane Integrated Bonding Flange Ceramic Tile
    B422-11"? All that is listed is solid backing it does not state it is drywall.



    Do you have the 2011 edition? I do

    You realize that in the TCNA guide there is also a detail with waterproofing on the walls as optional?

    Thankfully the ANSI and TTMAC guidelines are used in this industry. The TCNA is a great book but the others are the ones that count Jim. You do know that? Right?

    Your first post says that drywall is the preferred backer and you talk about it being Cheaper. Jump back to the first page and look at your post.

    Pressure treated wood should not be inside your home. You should exclude that bit of advice going forward.

    The threads on John Bridge's site that get the most hits on drywall need to be updated - why don't you address this? Or do your friends on John Bridge prefer this misinformation to stay up - year after year.

    I would think selling Kerdi and Kerdi EBooks is easier if everyone thinks drywall and drywall compound make for a good base is shower construction.

    I posted four links above. Could someone please sign in at John Bridge's site and update those threads. Please.

    JW
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 12-18-2011 at 08:01 PM.
    "When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER

    Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com

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    DIY Senior Member BobL43's Avatar
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    Some people who are not even in Canada are upper US (sorry)
    I am definitely not a pro plumber, but I am a pro crastinator

  11. #71
    Barrier Free Showers johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Surrey update from the NTCA group on Linkd' In




    Survey Update February 10, 2012

    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 02-10-2012 at 05:47 AM.
    "When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER

    Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com

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    DIY Junior Member crabb13's Avatar
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    Hey john,

    Do you have a side email, I could ask you some questions on. I live in alberta and would like to ask you some questions about suppliers. you can email me at james.crabb@lethbridge.ca

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    DIY Junior Member Manny1981's Avatar
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    Hey John,

    Give BondTAC a try. Company called Gluetek in NY sells it, and it's shipped directly from the manufacturing plant in Ontario. It sounds like you've used plenty of other membranes, and this one is definitely worth a try. It goes on thin - you want it to be about 4 mil thick. It's also an air/vapor barrier, and as an adhesive...it's rated at a vertical shear strength of 2000 lbs per 4' x 8' section Bonds to thin set like a sonuvagun. And a minimum of 225 sq ft. per gallon coverage. Might be a nice replacement for Laticrete / RedGard, etc, I think.

  14. #74
    Barrier Free Showers johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    My email is right below my posts - every one of them. There is actually two listed.

    Quote Originally Posted by crabb13 View Post
    Hey john,

    Do you have a side email, I could ask you some questions on. I live in alberta and would like to ask you some questions about suppliers. you can email me at james.crabb@lethbridge.ca
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 05-30-2013 at 07:51 AM.
    "When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER

    Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com

  15. #75
    Barrier Free Showers johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Default GlueTek - Promoter of BondTac

    Quote Originally Posted by Manny1981 View Post
    ...2000 lbs per 4' x 8' section ...

    4'x8' = 32 square feet

    48" x 96" = 4608 square inches

    2000lbs / 4608 square inches = 0.43 lbs per square inch

    Average brick 4"x8" = 32 square inch

    32 * 0.43 = 3.47 lbs

    I hung over 1800 pounds of water on ONE brick using Laticrete 254 and Ditra. You are suggesting that 2000lbs rating over a 4'x8' area is good? Do the math my friend - do the math.

    1800 / 32 = 56.25 lbs

    JW

    Jim you are an Engineer - What percentage is Ditra/254 better than BondTAC



    Quote Originally Posted by Manny1981 View Post
    Hey John,

    Give BondTAC a try. Company called Gluetek in NY sells it, and it's shipped directly from the manufacturing plant in Ontario. It sounds like you've used plenty of other membranes, and this one is definitely worth a try. It goes on thin - you want it to be about 4 mil thick. It's also an air/vapor barrier, and as an adhesive...it's rated at a vertical shear strength of 2000 lbs per 4' x 8' section Bonds to thin set like a sonuvagun. And a minimum of 225 sq ft. per gallon coverage. Might be a nice replacement for Laticrete / RedGard, etc, I think.
    Some research this morning.

    Goggled "Manny BondTac" guess what comes up. http://www.gluetek.com/about-gluetek

    Guess what the distrubutors name is for BondTac? GlueTek. Guess who is the owner & founder of GlueTek - Manny Halpern

    So in the profile above I think manny1981 forgot to list his other business. Who wants to bet that Manny was born in 1981?

    Want more info on GlueTek call


    GLUETEK
    Street: 4720 3rd Ave
    Town: Brooklyn
    State: New York
    Zip Code: 11220
    Phone: (866) 291-6380
    Fax: (718) 439-9777

    If someone wants to introduce a new product - why not just do that? But to slam a respected company like this is a poor move on GlueTek's part. Do people really think they are being so clever? Yet another in the long list of promoters I have found over the years...
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 05-30-2013 at 08:16 AM.
    "When it's Perfect. It's good Enough." - John Whipple ...................... Q: Who are the Top Ten Bathroom Designers for 2010-2012..? ANSWER

    Contact Info: Email jfrwhipple@gmail.com Phone: 604 506 6792 Alternate Email: info@byanydesign.com

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