(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 15 of 28

Thread: Well Stink

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    5,984

    Default Well Stink

    While I work on wells I am no expert. I have a friend that has, I would guess hydrogen sulphide in the well causing the rotton egg smell. I want to chlorine the well for him but I am not sure of how mich to use and if it will/can harm the pump. It is a submergable, the well is 90' and he is getting back to me as to the water depth in it. My question is, is there a formula as to the amount of chlorine to use based on the amount of water in the well? I know how to do it just not how much to use or how long to leave it in the well B4 flushing it out.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Previous member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Riverview, Fl.
    Posts
    4,540

    Default

    It sounds like you are going to chlorinate the well once, correct?

    This will only temporarilly get rid of the sulphur smell. When the chlorine is gone, the smell is back.

    I have a great system for eliminating sulphur permanently if he is interested. You can see it here:

    bob...

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member rshackleford's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Eastern Montana (The Bakken)
    Posts
    284

    Default

    How about a chlorinator? This is a device that bolts on the well casing and drops a chlorine pellet in every time the pump starts. The good thing about this is that it will control rust bacteria too.
    rshackleford

  4. #4
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Shocking a well (or the use of a pellet dropper) can cause expensive to fix water quality, pump, power cable, drop pipe and casing problems. And shocking is not the standard treatment for H2S unless it is being caused by IRB, MRB or SRB in the well/groundwater. And then shocking usually will make the problem worse over time to the point that the well will have to be chemically/mechanically cleaned or replaced IF the well is a well point of fully cased and screened well, as opposed to a rock bore well.

    If no reducing types of bacteria (IRB etc.) the best way to treat H2S is an air pump system. The air pump system I use is a bit different than Bob's. it uses a medical grade air compressor, stone bubbler and vent to be able to use air/oxygen (no chemicals) to oxidize H2S, iron and manganese. That causes those things to convert into a particulate which must be filtered out of the water. For the filter, I use a Centaur carbon because Centaur was invented to remove H2S and if the air doesn't get all of the H2S, the filter will; it is not regular carbon, it is a catalytic carbon. If there is a bacteria problem then I use an inline erosion pellet chlorinator followed by a special mixing tank and a Centaur filter.

    All filters must be sized for the peak demand flow rate (in gpm) of the family and house. Exceeding the SFR (service flow rating) of the filter prevents the filter from being able to remove all of whatever you are attempting to remove.

    Gary
    Quality Water Associates

  5. #5
    In the Trades Bob NH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    3,307

    Default

    Dropping chlorine into a well seems like an uncertain way of getting it to the pump inlet because the water comes from below the pump. If you could get a 1/4" tube past the pump you could introduce liquid chlorine solution (diluted bleach) by letting it run down by gravity through a solenoid valve that would open when the pump is on. The low concentration (1 to 2 parts per million) should not affect a stainless pump. You would then want a particulate filter of some sort to remove the sulphur and iron precipitates that result.

    I am an advocate of lots of filter surface area. I can get a "Big Blue" size housing (4.5" x 20" cartridge) for less than $50 and one pleated cartridge will serve a normal household for a year if there is not a lot of nasty stuff in the water. If I had a shallow well I would use one of the Harmsco "one-micron absolute" cartridges, especially in areas with livestock. Chlorine doesn't effectively kill cryptosporidium and if you want to know what that does, Google "cryptosporidium milwaukee" and take a look at the first few returns. And there was an outbreak at Seneca Lake State Park in New York that made more than 2000 people sick in the summer of 2005.

    If you can't get the chlorine below the pump you will need a chemical feed pump (about $250). If you are working with a shallow well jet pump you should have no problem getting the chlorine down near the foot valve.

    If you want to remove the chlorine you can use a carbon filter, but if you adjust the chlorine to be less than 1 part per million (1 mg/liter) after filtration you should not taste it, and it will take care of bacteria and viruses that may exist in the well.

    If you are adding chlorine regularly, you should have a test kit. I like the Hach CN-66F (USA Bluebook Stock 32467, $40.40) which will let you measure free chlorine (the kind that is most effective in killing bacteria and viruses) to within 0.1 mg/L.

  6. #6
    Previous member
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Riverview, Fl.
    Posts
    4,540

    Default

    I'm not sure what Gary's inline erosion pellet chlorinator is, but I would recommend any chlorinator above ground for in line chlorination as opposed to putting the chlorine in the well. I have seen only a few systems that used the pellet droppers (I believe by Autotrol) and the casing, controls, wire everything were destroyed by the chlorine. They hurt a lot more than help in my opinion. I recently pulled a pump from a 4" well that used to have the dropper on it. The casing was encased in 6" of concrete from ground to about the 2' of casing height above ground. As we were beating the pump out of the well because of what the chlorine had done to the inside of the casing, we knocked the concrete loose to reveal where the pellets had been hitting the casing through the well seal, there was no casing from 2' to ground level on the south side. Not to mention what it had done to the droppipe, wire etc.

    Bob NH's idea of dropping it through a tube is the best idea if you must put it in the well, but I would still rather see it used above ground.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •