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Thread: Need advice on best way to redo drain for walk in shower

  1. #1
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    Default Need advice on best way to redo drain for walk in shower

    Hi,

    I am redoing our master bath and have to move the shower drain for a new walk in. Attached is a pic of what I am dealing with. The new drain has to be right where there is a half circle drawn on the plywood just under the existing on. Everything has to be done in the same joist cavity and being only 10.5" I am very limited in space to make the p-trap and drain properly. If I make the p-trap go towards the left and then come back to the right to connect into the main drain, will there be issues of slow draining or clogging? I will use 2" ABS and the main drain is a 3" ABS coming from the right and with a 90 degree going to the downstairs floor which I don't have access to. In the pic it may look like the 3" ABS is leading into the drain all the way to the right (existing shower drain) but its not. The existing shower drain is connected at about 16" from the beginning and goes into the next joist cavity

    Looking for opinions please ASAP
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    Last edited by mcu; 12-08-2011 at 07:33 AM.

  2. #2
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Can't really see the mark indicating where you want the trap nor have a good idea of the shape and size of the shower you want to build. There will be no issue with having the inlet and outlet of the trap rotated (folded) as long as you don't throw additional elbows into the equation. For maximum strength, you want any patches in your ply to span at least three joists. That way, the middle (at least) of the ply is supported, and it is not hanging just by the edges and the fasteners on 1/2 of a joist width. This can be an issue when you want cement and tile on top of the surface.

    On a conventional shower, it's nicest to have the drain as close to the middle of the shower as possible. On an ADA, curbless shower (is that what you're talking about doing), it's nice to do something like a linear drain against say the back wall of the shower.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #3
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    its a prefab shower base from shluter and the drain is offset not centered. the mark (semi-circle) is about 1ft to the left of where the plywood starts on the right. If you still can't see it I will try to edit the photo (if I can figure out how).

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-18-2014 at 07:58 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  5. #5
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-18-2014 at 07:59 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  6. #6
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    its a schluter drain. I can't really do much from downstairs since its a supporting wall and a division wall runs right up to where the 3" drain is. I opened a small little section to sweat a copper to pex transition and at same time see if I can do anything on the drain but no luck on that one. Any other suggestions to work on it the way it is? The shower will be 40x84 and drain will be approx at 20"x20". You actually walk in from the other side and plan to have a no door, glass walk in.

  7. #7
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-18-2014 at 07:59 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  8. #8
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    it's actually Prova shower base. A competitor of Schluter and they recommend modified thinset as opposed to non modified Schluter recommends. I am making a curb out of 2x4s stacked up (3 of them). I don't want the drain to out either since I need to keep a distance from the door. what do you recommend for the plumbing? at 24" for the drain is it really non acceptable?

  9. #9
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    I was also thinking of applying the base to a cement backer board instead of the plywood

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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    I see where your mark is but am not sure where the vent is. The vent has to be downstream and within 6' of the trap.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnfrwhipple View Post


    I have heard of the pans lifting right off of plywood when non-modified thin set has been used and the subfloor has some flex.
    If your floor has flex, any tile situation can have problems. For any of these installs, they specify that the floor must be flat, and if not, flattened prior to installation of the (flexible) pan. Failure to do this may prevent a good bond as the pan has some resilience, and could pull itself away. If your subfloor has flex, neither tile nor pan will like it. Just like a cbu sheet on a floor, the mortar underneath is primarily to fill any imperfections first, and hold it down second - gravity works wonders. If the floor meets specs to tile on, and is flat, anything should work. Never hurts to talk to the manufacturer for special circumstances as they know their product best and have no desire for your install to fail and can advise.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    I see where your mark is but am not sure where the vent is. The vent has to be downstream and within 6' of the trap.
    The vent links into the 3" drain and can't be seen in the pic. It's actually in the wall next to it and is also a 3" ABS

  13. #13
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-18-2014 at 07:59 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  14. #14
    DIY Member mcu's Avatar
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    JW,

    I was planing on doubling up the subloor with two plywoods and then adding a 1/4" cement board with thinset and roofing nails. I am doing the same to prepare for tiles on the main floor. As for the curb i was planning on screwing and using PL glue in between and then covered with cement board and then kerdi. I thought about using bricks or pavers, but i was told not to do that because it will be on plywood. I will fix the blocking but what about the plumbing for the drain. How do you recommend i do it? I noticed you are in Canada also, who sells the prefab curbs? I checked home depot, haome hardware and all the other major retailers

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    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-18-2014 at 07:59 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

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