DWV setup Q

Hey guys,

I have been lurking on this forum for years and never really had a reason to post before. However, I have done lots of great learning over those years.

I'm redoing my bathroom, moved a wall back to make more room and therefore the toilet will need to move.

I ended up cutting out all the old plumbing as the floor joists were is rough shape and needed to repaired and now it's time to put it back together.

My question is mostly regarding the toilet setup and whether it is properly vented according to my plan as the lav will tie into the vent for the toilet.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71462267@N05/6461870557/

I have attached a picture with be reasonably clear. If its not please let me know and I will explain it a bit further.

Thanks,
Steve

Helpful Plumbing Hints for Residential Construction by Bert Polk Plumbing Inspector Lincoln County

I can't make much sense of it. It would be a lot easier for everyone to understand if you drew us an isometric drawing.

I'm baffled that you would go through all the work of fixing the joists and now you are thinking of of drilling them all out to run a 3" line through them.

Going under the joists was not an option.

This solution was engineered by my regular engineer.

I will work on an isometric drawing.

Steve

don't know about Canada but under my code (ipc) toilets don't need vents well actually that needs to be amended. The IPC says you have to have a vent somewhere in the system.

It would have been easier if the picture were not on its side. I do not see a vent for the shower and it appears to be connected with a sanitary tee, the "loop" at the lavatory is completely unnecessary, and I am not sure what the "Y, 45, and 90" are for, or how they will be put together.

I turned the photo the other way. I was working from my iPad yesterday - as great as it is, it still can’t fully replace a computer.

I looked at the photo again myself and see that it is a bit tough the get a take on it. I will do my best to explain it.

----

The main 3" stack come up into the floor and turns horizontal.

The first thing tied into the horizontal pipe is a 3x3x1-1/2 wye with a "street" 45 for the shower. The vent for the shower can't be seen in the photo as it's on the other side of the room, it will be tied in with a wye rolled to a 45 and straightened out with a "street" 45 fitting.

The toilet tie in is next. For this I planned on using a 3x3x3 wye with a “street” 45 to make it parallel with the ‘main’ run. From the “street” 45 a closet bend is used to turn it up to the floor. It’s a bit tough to see in the picture but it’s there.

From the wye the 3” ‘main’ carries on until it gets to the wall where it turns up 90 degrees and goes up and through the roof.

The lavatory will be tied into the 3” running up through the wall. I intended to show a separate vent for the lav with the “loop.” But maybe it will be close enough (about 4’) to not need the separate vent?

Thanks again for the help!

Steve

1. 1 1/2" is NOT proper for a shower.
2. use 2" for the lavatory arm and you will NOT need to "loop" it for a vent.
3. "combination Y-1/8 bends are "shorter" than Ys and street 1/8 bends, and eliminate one joint which could be a leak point.
4. I would use a "spigot" 4x3 closet bend.

Thanks for the advice.

It's actually a tub/shower combo so I believe the 1-1/2 is okay for this.

I was able to get the toilet rough-in done without the extra fitting. The closet bend right into the wye worked out perfectly.

legally 1 1/2" is okay for the tub drain, but I have never used anything except 2" for either a tub or a shower.