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Thread: Adding basement flush without tearing up cement floor

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    DIY Junior Member RFDACM02's Avatar
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    Default Adding basement flush without tearing up cement floor

    I'm adding a flush in my basement where there was a utility sink. My issue is that the cast iron pipe exited the house comes through the cement floor vertically in the area of the toilet and the previous sink drain entered the drain pipe too high for the toilet drain. I want to stay away from a mechanical up flush. Right now I have about 10" of 4" cast iron up to a 4" to 3" cast iron reducer, then a 4" cast iron "T" (?) then up to 3" PVC.Name:  IMG_7003 - Copy [Desktop Resolution].JPG
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    My intent was to remove the cast iron reducer and "T" and replace with a 3" PVC sanitary "T" and adapt the 3"PVC to the 4" cast iron drain as low as possible with a Fernco (?) 4" to 3" reducer? A short floor build-up is acceptable in this space. Lastly, can I use a Saniflo 003 rear outlet bowl without the macerating unit? It would seem to discharge to the drain pipe just like the macerator?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    It's my understanding (may be flawed!) that you would need their full system. It does not have enough oomph to move the waste to a gravity line - the pump gives it that flow and does it with a smaller pipe than would normally be used for a toilet because it grinds things up first.

    You might be able to use a wall-hung toilet directly into that depending on the distance. Keep in mind that the pipe must have slope down, so the outlet would have to be above where you could make the connection. Also, most wall-hung toilet brackets are designed to allow their outlet go down, not to the side. That may mean the toilet would be too high, but depending on how far away it is, you may be able to add a T lower to accommodate it. Keep in mind also that codes require there to be a sink where you have a toilet and that will need to drain as well as have a vent to work properly.

    For the not inconsequential cost of either the Saniflo or a wall-hung bracket, you might find it just as cost effective to tear up the concrete and install a conventional gravity flush toilet. Gravity isn't going to fail, but motors and stuff can and will. It usually isn't all that big a deal to trench the concrete to add a new drain line in for the toilet, especially if you're willing to put in the grunt work. Having a pro do it is certainly quicker, cleaner, and less stressful, though!
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Junior Member RFDACM02's Avatar
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    jadnashua Thanks for the reply.

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    It's my understanding (may be flawed!) that you would need their full system. It does not have enough oomph to move the waste to a gravity line - the pump gives it that flow and does it with a smaller pipe than would normally be used for a toilet because it grinds things up first.
    That's what I feared. At the position the Saniflow box would be in, I would have just a short downhill run to the sanitary "T" but the limited flow seems to be the issue.
    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Keep in mind also that codes require there to be a sink where you have a toilet and that will need to drain as well as have a vent to work properly.
    Thankfully everything I need is within 4 ft. inside this room, the vent line is already in at the ceiling and the sink will be about 36" from the main drain pipe.
    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    For the not inconsequential cost of either the Saniflo or a wall-hung bracket, you might find it just as cost effective to tear up the concrete and install a conventional gravity flush toilet. Gravity isn't going to fail, but motors and stuff can and will. It usually isn't all that big a deal to trench the concrete to add a new drain line in for the toilet, especially if you're willing to put in the grunt work. Having a pro do it is certainly quicker, cleaner, and less stressful, though!
    This is an option, though one I really am trying to avoid given the costs. I may look into cutting he cast iron as low as possible and gaining so hight that way as well. Given this is a basement bathroom , functionality is first, asthetics are not a big deal.

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    There are concrete cutting companies that can cut concrete without leaving a mess. The resulting cut is easily patched. Not saying this is the best way for your situation, but it is worth considering.

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    DIY Junior Member RFDACM02's Avatar
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    After looking at some others online, maybe a "European style" rear discharge toilet is the key? It appears there's an adpater for these that allows glueing into a 3" PVC Hub? Kinda looking for any other possibilites before going to a macerator or taking out concrete.

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    DIY Junior Member RFDACM02's Avatar
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    Emded up ordering the Saniflo 003 and extension tube after speaking to Saniflo directly. The tech said it'll work like any gravity feed (as long as everything is pitched down after the discharge). Now I just have to rework the soil stack to allow for the lowest fit of the sanitary "T".

    Another question regaring the cast iron: When the 3" PVC adaptsto the 4" Cast Iron, does the PVC slide into the cast iron (sleeve-like) and the Fernco just makes the seal? This would clearly allow for a much easier time fitting the replacement vertical peice in place. The issue I'm anticipating is removing 6 ft. of 3" PVC vertical stack and replacing it with the new peice with the new sanitary "T" and adapting back to the 4" C.I where there's no movement of the cast iron at the floor or the PVC at the cieling.
    Last edited by RFDACM02; 12-11-2012 at 01:05 PM.

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