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Thread: Alterations to a submersible pump for bladder tank installation

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member dwmitch's Avatar
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    Default Alterations to a submersible pump for bladder tank installation

    I've been thinking about changing to a bladder tank but I've been told by the guy who maintains my parents' well system that the pump would have to be pulled, though he didn't specify what changes need to be made.

    Today my mother was in Home Depot and decided to check on a bladder tank for me. She called and said an associate there said he recently installed one and didn't have to touch the pump.

    I haven't been able to find anything about it on Google. My current tank is leaking (small hole rusted through, got a temporary plug in but it's not water tight) and I don't know if I need to go with another stainless steel or if I could install a bladder tank without having to bring in a crew to pull the pump.

  2. #2
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    There is probably a bleeder installed on the downpipe that needs to be removed. The pump would have to be pulled up high enough to remove the bleeder but the pump needs not be touched.

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    DIY Junior Member dwmitch's Avatar
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    What would happen if I left the bleeder on? The associate that my mother talked to said that's the first tank he's installed in 33 years, meaning his pump was installed around the same time as mine, but for him it was just a matter of taking out the old tank and installing the new one.

  4. #4
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    If you leave the bleeder/snifter/checkvalve in place, it will continue to inject air into the tank and the tank not having an air volume control will just pass the air to the faucets. Water behind air can develop enough force to knock a glass out of your hand and shatter it. Water behind air can also create water hammer and damage pipes.

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member dwmitch's Avatar
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    What are the alternatives to a bladder tank, then? Ordering online isn't really viable and no one can seem to track down anything other than bladder tanks around here. I technically know how to pull a pump to get the bleeder off and I can easily find out what the bleeder is so I'll know how to remove it, but the guy who told me how to pull one said without specialized equipment it's at least a three man operation so I'd rather leave the pump in the ground if at all possible.

  6. #6
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
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    If you remove the above grond check valve, the bleeder should stay closed and not be a problem. But after changing to a bladder tank and removing the check valve, Schrader valve combo, if the pressure leaks off while you are not using any water, then the bleeder is leaking and will have to be plugged. The good news is that the bleeder should only be down about 5 feet in the well.

  7. #7
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    It's going to come down to how your system was installed. My own well has the bleeder and the check valve in the well, so when I replaced the tank I just bought a new epoxy-lined standard tank so I wouldn't have to mess with the well.

    Most plumbing suppliers should be able to order you a new tank. I picked mine up at the local Farm & Fleet store.

  8. #8
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    You could always go with a WellMate composite hydro-pneumatic tank.

    http://www.wellmate.com/en-US/produc...onnect-series/

  9. #9
    In the Trades Texas Wellman's Avatar
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    First, never listen to what anybody in HD tells you. Second, never buy anything from HD that you wish to last for just longer than the warranty period.

    Don't know if you have a tractor supply near, but they can get you a std. galvanized tank. If you're near Branson, look up Lefty's Drilling and buy it from them.

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